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Unread 03-10-2014, 07:03 AM   #31
jason m
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GM still makes the 14 bolt, so finding a new one with disc brakes is getting easyier. I dont know about this "E-locker" that you are speaking of, I know if its the Gov-loc then not its not a good locker for the reason I stated above.

Yes a lot of GM axles did come from the factory with the Detroit installed and yes the military CUCV all had 4.56's with the Detroit installed in the rear 14 bolt.
Thats what make finding a set of CUCV axles nice, a good deep gear to start with, a 60/14 bolt both SRW and a locker in the back.
But even if you cant find a set or want to pay the over priced cost that most sell them for ( the CUCV ), a simple 4.56's 14 bolt can be had for well under 200~150 at most junkyards.
Even if its got DRW hubs, the axle is the same width, but the offset in the hubs determine the WMS, so a cab and chassie axle is 63.5"s WMS, but with a simple hub swap you can make 67.5"s WMS.

Again nothing changes the axles shafts lenght them self, just the offset of the hubs.
The only thing that changes is the mount for the rear brakes is welded 2"s inward when it has DRW hubs, so when ordering a disc brake bracket from RuffStuff tell what axle you started with and he will ship the correct offset brake bracket for that axle.

Some trucks had the Detroit locker instlled and were used on the road, I had a few plow trucks with ( and still do ) Detroits in the back, makes pushing snow a lot easyier, even in two wheel drive.
I found my first 14 bolt with 4.10's and Detroit in the back, I had the time to go threw about 13-15, 14 bolt axles sitting in a pile of axles, I found a bunch of 4.56's axles but I needed 4.10s to match my front 60 at the time.
So I kept digging and found a locked, 4.10 SRW in decent shape and told the guy " that one ", paid 75.00 for it

Jason.

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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 03-10-2014, 07:29 AM   #32
Solidkm
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thats good stuff. What does CUCV stand for?
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Popular 4WD formulas.
1. Building for the "smallest, lightest" platform equals building a suzuki samurai
2. A dana 44 JR is still not a dana 44 (Every .938" counts)
3. A ford 8.8 is the only axle that has the capability to snag rocks, and other obstacles. Avoid this axle
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Unread 03-10-2014, 09:57 AM   #33
Evildriver-3
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You don't need FF, and the 14 came with junk g lok, nothing good. They don't come with a detroit factory, in a military truck there is another variation of it (cucv)
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Unread 03-10-2014, 05:47 PM   #34
Mk50
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You may not need full float but it lets you make the axle stronger with all the weight being on the housing the shafts can be huge and the housing can be trussed

I can't wait to find one and I think for the extra money I will want an arb this will be where I splurge
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Unread 03-10-2014, 06:34 PM   #35
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If the truck was ordered with a Detroit the dealer normally installed them, so to me thats a "factory" Detroit installed.
And all the CUCV's were a factory installed option, so yes the facotry did infact install Detroits or whats called a "No-spin".
Thats not me saying this its a well know fact that they are same why do you think they are so sought after.

And yes you dont need FF but why settle for a semi float, why put the weight of a 39" tire on the a semi float, plus the power to push it forward/backwards.
Not all of us are racing around a track, we like the push the limits of our OFFFROAD rigs.
A few quick google searchs shows that the CUCV did infact use a Detroit, cant belive we still need to explain this fact.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/project-v...evival-part-4/

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=463582

http://www.truckforum.org/forums/che...time-cucv.html

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 03-10-2014, 10:26 PM   #36
Evildriver-3
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The weight.... what weight ? ? We aren't talking about 6500 lb trucks here.

Military vehicles aren't in jy... you talk like every jy everywhere has all these things lying around.

And saying a D60 pin is a weak point and to chose a 14b over it for that reasoning is the worst reasoning I've heard yet.

.
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Unread 03-10-2014, 11:17 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildriver-3 View Post
The weight.... what weight ? ? We aren't talking about 6500 lb trucks here.

Military vehicles aren't in jy... you talk like every jy everywhere has all these things lying around.

And saying a D60 pin is a weak point and to chose a 14b over it for that reasoning is the worst reasoning I've heard yet.

.
If your going to invest money into a rig that your going to abuse the crap out of wouldn't you ( well I guess not you ) want the strongest axle set up, which would be a FF.
The extra leverage of deep gears, way over Spec tires, the fact we are forcing them threw very hard rock pile's and maybe even jumping them I want the strongest I can afford and easy to find.

Point to any of my post were I said any CUCV's are "everywhere in a junkyard" go ahead, like everything else you cant comprehend the dialog. I said 14 bolts all are all over junkyards and even some with DETROIT lockers not CUCVs

Ive seen 4 dana 60's rears break pinions and you are talking to guy that runs a 60 rear, a rear steer 60 rear but yes still a 60. I cringe every time I have to drop the hammer, cause I know sooner or later the 35 spline shafts wont break, the R&P wont break but the pinion, maybe.
But the choice to go rear steer on the cheap like just tuning a front SRW 60 around to a rear was to much and I caved in on letting my polished 14 bolt go.

This is the big boy world we play in, we are not racing GT mustangs around a 1/8 mile track ( or whatever the size is ), or blowing donuts in the snow. Most here want to play hard on the rocks, that means bigger the better. Trust me If it didn't mean giving up all that ground clearance I would run duel dana 80's, build a front and stuff it full of chrome shafts.

But you run along, im sure there is a circle track drag race coming up that you need to tune that 700HP grand for, we will play over here

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 03-10-2014, 11:49 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildriver-3 View Post
You don't need FF, and the 14 came with junk g lok, nothing good. They don't come with a detroit factory, in a military truck there is another variation of it (cucv)
Oh one more thing can you name this myhtical locker you speak of????
If its not a the Detroit No-spin then please share us with your wisdom, or are you going to tell me you have those in the books down the shop but wont waste anytime trying to prove it to me, like in the last thread.

If you cant show us facts, or post any real info then just stay out of the topic thread. This is a site that wants to help with info based on facts, what you bring to ( at least on axle ) table is, well BS.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 03-11-2014, 12:40 PM   #39
Solidkm
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Gentlemen, lets not argue about this.. or detract from the OPs question too much.

im not buying the non full float theory. for 35-39 inch tires in a light jeep, is a semi float sufficient. YA. absolutely for 90% of us. BUT when we have the option of full float... esp with the 14b being so economical and coming full float, theres no reason to even fight it. IF you had a semi float 60 laying around out back.. sure run it. but if youre going axle hunting you might as well come home with a FFer. I was going through the trouble to make the 60 i got FF and i was remiss. I realize that for the price of custom double spline shafts alone i could have a complete 14b. I messed up. But for serviceability and ease alone, FF is where its at. WHY FF- is literally the first paragraph of the 14b bible.
__________________
Popular 4WD formulas.
1. Building for the "smallest, lightest" platform equals building a suzuki samurai
2. A dana 44 JR is still not a dana 44 (Every .938" counts)
3. A ford 8.8 is the only axle that has the capability to snag rocks, and other obstacles. Avoid this axle
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Unread 03-11-2014, 03:44 PM   #40
Mk50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidkm View Post
Gentlemen, lets not argue about this.. or detract from the OPs question too much.

im not buying the non full float theory. for 35-39 inch tires in a light jeep, is a semi float sufficient. YA. absolutely for 90% of us. BUT when we have the option of full float... esp with the 14b being so economical and coming full float, theres no reason to even fight it. IF you had a semi float 60 laying around out back.. sure run it. but if youre going axle hunting you might as well come home with a FFer. I was going through the trouble to make the 60 i got FF and i was remiss. I realize that for the price of custom double spline shafts alone i could have a complete 14b. I messed up. But for serviceability and ease alone, FF is where its at. WHY FF- is literally the first paragraph of the 14b bible.
Exactly solid!!

If your going to look for what you want why settle why half *** is when you could go kick *** and never need to buy another axle!!
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Unread 03-12-2014, 03:29 AM   #41
Solidkm
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Also, for my needs the jeep must be streetable for a while. More than streetable; daily driver actually. I love that you can change the WMS of the 14B simply by installing different hubs. The spindle and shafts will stay the same.. just slide on the other hub version and you just changed the width for your needs. That is a phenomenal perk.
__________________
Popular 4WD formulas.
1. Building for the "smallest, lightest" platform equals building a suzuki samurai
2. A dana 44 JR is still not a dana 44 (Every .938" counts)
3. A ford 8.8 is the only axle that has the capability to snag rocks, and other obstacles. Avoid this axle
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Unread 03-12-2014, 05:29 PM   #42
Mk50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidkm View Post
Also, for my needs the jeep must be streetable for a while. More than streetable; daily driver actually. I love that you can change the WMS of the 14B simply by installing different hubs. The spindle and shafts will stay the same.. just slide on the other hub version and you just changed the width for your needs. That is a phenomenal perk.
AMEN SOLID!!
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Unread 03-13-2014, 01:11 AM   #43
ltrail
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Think of the full float as in if you are asking, then you need it. I never had broken a shaft til the first time. You may not need the ARB and nasty low gears currently, but in time. Though these rigs don't weigh as much as the vehicles from which they came the stress can be similar. On the street most guys aren't spinning tires and find traction, or getting bound up in an overhang. Say an xj is 3k ish, plus a set of d44's(heavier), bigger rubber, spare parts, tools, fancy tube work, etc. It all is small potatoes, til you get hit with the whole sack of them. start with a FF axle and be much happier in the long run. Though i haven't run them as of yet i have a 60/10.5 super duty set for my new xj, and I've taken a liking to these axles. Beefy, clearance, disks, most of the good stuff. Gear sets are a tad more expensive it seems.

Correct me if im wrong but I believe every FF axle I can think of can change wms change from switching of srw/drw hubs. Or swapping d79/14b hubs
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Unread 03-13-2014, 09:35 AM   #44
Evildriver-3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m View Post
Oh one more thing can you name this myhtical locker you speak of????
If its not a the Detroit No-spin then please share us with your wisdom, or are you going to tell me you have those in the books down the shop but wont waste anytime trying to prove it to me, like in the last thread.

If you cant show us facts, or post any real info then just stay out of the topic thread. This is a site that wants to help with info based on facts, what you bring to ( at least on axle ) table is, well BS.

Jason.
Don't act like ***, just stick to what the op is needing or wanting. Not my fault you and others cant get a d35 to live

The g lok is what the 14 b does come with as a limited slip option.

Only some of the military stuff has the locker, and you don't realize you're talking to this person and possibly going to make him waste umpteen hours looking for something he may not find and he has more than he needs already.

I use a fullsize truck off road, twice the weight and twice the tq, haven't broken either of the 60's pin, even race that.
If you broke a 60 pin you did it doing something wrong, and by broken i am guessing you mean you broke the stem and not the teeth.
If it's the teeth that's totally different, i have a customer with a jeep he broke a 14b, the 3rd bearing went from repeated loading and unloading and then the rest all caved in and the total axle was unrepairable after that.

They do break

FF is nice, it is not necessary and that particular axle can handle probably more than it will see.
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Less than 8 is like playing with half a deck
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Unread 03-13-2014, 12:57 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildriver-3 View Post
Don't act like ***, just stick to what the op is needing or wanting. Not my fault you and others cant get a d35 to live

The g lok is what the 14 b does come with as a limited slip option.

Only some of the military stuff has the locker, and you don't realize you're talking to this person and possibly going to make him waste umpteen hours looking for something he may not find and he has more than he needs already.

I use a fullsize truck off road, twice the weight and twice the tq, haven't broken either of the 60's pin, even race that.
If you broke a 60 pin you did it doing something wrong, and by broken i am guessing you mean you broke the stem and not the teeth.
If it's the teeth that's totally different, i have a customer with a jeep he broke a 14b, the 3rd bearing went from repeated loading and unloading and then the rest all caved in and the total axle was unrepairable after that.

They do break

FF is nice, it is not necessary and that particular axle can handle probably more than it will see.
First no one even said anything about a dana 35, but since you just brought it up the OP asked about running 37~39's on probaly a locked rear. So if you can show us how to make that work we are all ears. Plus how is you bringing up what the "OP asked about" even have to do with a dana 35???

I brought up the CUCV to show the OP and others that buying a hole truck can yeild more than just axle's, I think I laid that very well. A simple Google search brings you counless site's selling hole trucks or parts including axle's, like Boyce EQP.
At one time they wanted around 600.00 for a complete rear factory take out. Thats why I brought them up and if you read ( there is that hole reading comprehension thing again ) I said "thats what make finding a set nice".
Not that he was going down the CUCV junkyard and will snag a few sets ( thats a joke most dont have CUCV junkyards ), but if you search you can find a SRW, lokced 14 bolt normally with low mileage from a CUCV.

Again read what I typed, I have never broke a 60 pinion, I have been there when 4 have broke. And what difference does it make if the pinion breaks or the gears get stripped, youre still broke. Plus I would rather strip gears than snap a pinion. A broken pinion falls into the carrier and can cause damaged to the locker/carrier.
And no if you break a 60 pinion your are not doing anything wrong parts just break, most cant explain why but they do and yes the 14 bolt can break im not saying that they dont.
They just dont break nearly as much as a 60 can, if that was the case we would be seeing more peaple with 60 rears than 14 bolt.

And hey thanks for calling me a *** really reneforces your statements

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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