Axles? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Engines & Drivetrain > Axles?

Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineJeep Tweaks at JeepHutJeep speedometer gears at rockridge4wd

Reply
Unread 03-07-2014, 07:41 PM   #16
jason m
your ad here...
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,995
60/14 Bolt and those will be the last set of axle's you install period. I ran that combo for 8 ( hard ) years and only busted the stock stub shaft ( which buy the way is 30 not 31 ).
I would be still runing that 14 bolt if I didn't go rear steer, but that axle is under a KOH car as we speak.

Dont waste your time with a full axle shave, not worth the extra time and the fact that you are taking away strength from the integrity of the housing and can distort the housing while you are welding it back together.
Just shave the lower lips off and you will pick up the same clearance as that 60 front, trust me I know.

2500 is a crap ton to pay for a set, search and be patience you will find the right set for the right price. I deal in a lot of axle's up here in the north east and normally wont pay anymore than a few hundred dollars, but we have a lot of rusted out trucks to still choose from, not in junkyards they are picked clean but in feilds or just looking around.

Get the hole truck, this way you can use extras like driveshafts and the Hydro boost brakes, plus the power steering pumps are a higher pressure and flow.
Then part the rest out ( motor trans and T-case ) and scrap the rest, when that is all over you just paid for the axles and will have money left over for extras.

Jason.

__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-07-2014, 10:06 PM   #17
Mk50
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 29
Sounds good.
What is a good price for the truck
Mk50 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-07-2014, 10:41 PM   #18
Solidkm
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m View Post
60/14 Bolt and those will be the last set of axle's you install period. I ran that combo for 8 ( hard ) years and only busted the stock stub shaft ( which buy the way is 30 not 31 ).
I would be still runing that 14 bolt if I didn't go rear steer, but that axle is under a KOH car as we speak.

Dont waste your time with a full axle shave, not worth the extra time and the fact that you are taking away strength from the integrity of the housing and can distort the housing while you are welding it back together.
Just shave the lower lips off and you will pick up the same clearance as that 60 front, trust me I know.

2500 is a crap ton to pay for a set, search and be patience you will find the right set for the right price. I deal in a lot of axle's up here in the north east and normally wont pay anymore than a few hundred dollars, but we have a lot of rusted out trucks to still choose from, not in junkyards they are picked clean but in feilds or just looking around.

Get the hole truck, this way you can use extras like driveshafts and the Hydro boost brakes, plus the power steering pumps are a higher pressure and flow.
Then part the rest out ( motor trans and T-case ) and scrap the rest, when that is all over you just paid for the axles and will have money left over for extras.

Jason.
i have been trying to get the clearance difference between the shaved 14 and the 60. Do you have numbers?
__________________
Popular 4WD formulas.
1. Building for the "smallest, lightest" platform equals building a suzuki samurai
2. A dana 44 JR is still not a dana 44 (Every .938" counts)
3. A ford 8.8 is the only axle that has the capability to snag rocks, and other obstacles. Avoid this axle
Solidkm is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-07-2014, 11:44 PM   #19
jason m
your ad here...
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,995
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidkm View Post
i have been trying to get the clearance difference between the shaved 14 and the 60. Do you have numbers?
No not off hand, but I will say once I shaved the lower lips off my 14 b I had the same clearance than my 60 HP front, which buy the way could not be shaved, to much casting to cut away.

There is a resion a 14 bolt is so strong, leave it alone and it will last for years and take a crap ton of abuse. If you hit a rock and cant make it over, back up and it till you do or break the rock, your not going to hurt that axle.

OP a good price is what you think your willing to pay and what you can use plus what you can re-sell.

Me I dont normally spend more than 500 for the hole truck. Then the 60 comes out, what ever rear ( Chevy would be a 14 B, Ford/Dodge 60/70 ) gets sold off along with the trans/T-case ( Chevy T400/205 and whatever in the other two ).
Then its dropped off at a buddy scrap yard for number steel.

So in the end I get a free 60, sell off some parts ( maybe a 300-400 ) and then the scrap weight, maybe 200-250.
I will pay more for a better truck, maybe use it to plow then part it out or just flip it.

Two truck axle's I am no longer selling are the 78/79 Fords and the SRW Chevys. both are getting very hard to find and are worth more to just toss onto my pile of axle's and when I feel the market it ripe for selling I will or just use them myself.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-08-2014, 06:35 AM   #20
Solidkm
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 461
So this whole thread; and reading my own advice has me wondering if i should sell off all my rear 60 stuff and ge the 14b. The issue is i will be on 35s for a while.. then i will skip 37s and go right to 39s...

oh decisions ...
__________________
Popular 4WD formulas.
1. Building for the "smallest, lightest" platform equals building a suzuki samurai
2. A dana 44 JR is still not a dana 44 (Every .938" counts)
3. A ford 8.8 is the only axle that has the capability to snag rocks, and other obstacles. Avoid this axle
Solidkm is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-08-2014, 08:08 AM   #21
jason m
your ad here...
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,995
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidkm View Post
So this whole thread; and reading my own advice has me wondering if i should sell off all my rear 60 stuff and ge the 14b. The issue is i will be on 35s for a while.. then i will skip 37s and go right to 39s...

oh decisions ...
Dont start with the rear 60, it will cost tripple ( maybe more ) of what a stock 14 bolt can handle to make it work.
Break it down like this, the 60 will need to X handle 39" tires:
1, 35 spline 1.5" shafts.
2, a new carrier/spool/locker to handle the new bigger shafts.
3, you will need to start with a HD axle or U to get the large boars for the axle's to slide threw.
4, even after all that yes the axle will be able to handle 39's, but the small pinion will be the breaking point and there is no upgrade for that.

14 bolt:
1, 30 spline 1 9/16" shafts factory.
2, no new carrier needed if you install a spool or Detroit ( I like welded/spooled ).
3, large boar spindles factory.
4, a 1 3/8" pinion and the hole axle can handle 39" tires without one cost from the after market world.

Its only down size is its size, but shave the lower lips off and you have a axle withen the same size as the one in front.
Plus most can be found with 4.56's or paired off with a 60 front, really the only other axle that comes close except for the Eaton HO 72 is the dana 70, but the use the same 29 pline input as the 60, so really whats to say it stronger overall???
Install a 14 bolt and its installed for life, it will be the last time you touch it.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-08-2014, 09:07 AM   #22
Mk50
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 29
Mines going under a daily driver it's gonna have to handle the rocks and be ready for the daily commute( no busted seals or any thing)
I want a full float 14 rear with 5.13 gears and an arb
I want a hp 60 front with 5.13 gears and an arb
Mk50 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-08-2014, 09:54 AM   #23
jason m
your ad here...
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,995
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mk50 View Post
Mines going under a daily driver it's gonna have to handle the rocks and be ready for the daily commute( no busted seals or any thing)
I want a full float 14 rear with 5.13 gears and an arb
I want a hp 60 front with 5.13 gears and an arb
Watch out with the "want list", that is the number one killer of all builds. I agree a ARB in the rear for a DD rig is nice, but driving with a Detroit is doable and do you really think you need it a ARB up front with a axle that has locking hubs?
Even if you decide to run upgraded 35 spline stubs, you can get 35 spline locking hubs and a simple lunch box locker or a Detroit, those two products along with the 35 stubs will all add up to one ARB and give you the same performance.

Or build it slow ( the front, well I guess the rear to ), start out with checking the seals and bearings, the look good re-pack them and run them. Install a Lockrite locker and just run the stock 30 spline outers with whatever brand locking hub on the axle.
Remember these are one ton parts, they are not cheap but they are built to last and take a crap ton of abuse even from neglect over time.
Both my axles are still running the whatever bearing and seals came with the axle. I took it all apart, cleaned them up, re-packed them and installed.

Heck my front still has what I think is OEM 1480 U-joints that might have been installed in 1978. They showed little signs of wear and took greese threw the fitting, two years later and plenty of abuse still working and will for several more.

I still run stock shafts for inners and the front of my rig still has 30 spline stubs, I beat the crap out my Jeep and yes I have cringed a few times cause of the smaller shafts, but they made it threw.
Sooner or later I will upgrade, but for now it works.

Dont make a punch list and except to get it all done, the build will sit longer on jack stands waiting for money and time. Get them in and start over time tossing a upgrade at it, over time you will have them built up the way you want them.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-08-2014, 12:11 PM   #24
Solidkm
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 461
Thats good info. What size tires are you running? can you measure the clearance at your front and rear for us?

i already have the E350 rear 60. 4.56s, press in spindles for full float, and 3/4 ton break kit, solid cover, bearings ETC.

How good is the factory E locker that came in some of the 14Bs? if i found one with 4.56s it would def entise me.
__________________
Popular 4WD formulas.
1. Building for the "smallest, lightest" platform equals building a suzuki samurai
2. A dana 44 JR is still not a dana 44 (Every .938" counts)
3. A ford 8.8 is the only axle that has the capability to snag rocks, and other obstacles. Avoid this axle
Solidkm is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-08-2014, 04:32 PM   #25
jason m
your ad here...
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,995
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidkm View Post
Thats good info. What size tires are you running? can you measure the clearance at your front and rear for us?

i already have the E350 rear 60. 4.56s, press in spindles for full float, and 3/4 ton break kit, solid cover, bearings ETC.

How good is the factory E locker that came in some of the 14Bs? if i found one with 4.56s it would def entise me.
Im running 39" iroks on mine, I cant really messure as its in a cold storage till the winter freeze is over, plus I bet the tires are flat. I again dont run a 14 B anymore, I switched about 3 years ago from a 60/14 B to a 78/79 front 60 and a 60 Chevy front turned around to be a rear steer axle.

The factory from GM locker sucks, the Detroit locker is real good. My 14 B I was lucky and found a Detroit locker in the junkyard while searching an axle pile, it only had 4.10 gears but was a SRW axle, paid maybe 75.00 for it, this was back in 02-03.
My old front was a 88 HP that I narrowed to 64.5"s, so that the springe pearchs would match the OEM pearchs on the Jeep.

If you cant find a 4.56 geared 14 B then your not looking hard enough. The tuff part will be to find one with a Detroit Locker, but they are out there.
So buy one with a open diff which will have 4 cross pin holes or look for a Detroit locker which again will have 4 cross pin holes just no side gears looking threw the side windows on the carrier, thats how you spot them.
Do not buy a axle with 3 cross pin holes, that will be the factory Gov-loc, or Gov bomb, they suck. They dont lock up till 2-3 turns from a slipping tire and when they do with big tire they can go boom.

Oh and another good thing about the 14 b is lets say you dont get lucky and find a locker just a normall open diff axle, the locker replace's the stock spider gears and side gears, so no setting the pinion depth, just readjust the side nuts to match the pattern again. No shims, not special tools needed just adjust those spanner nuts and your back in action, real simple.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-08-2014, 06:07 PM   #26
Evildriver-3
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: , Suffolk, NY
Posts: 939
Do the 60's with the selectables front and rear.

I had 60's front and rear , e locker in back , arb in front and had fwh, yeah you'll get tired of locking and unlocking hubs as you run into problems.

As for breaking a pinion on a 60 ..... you gotta be pretty stupidly abusive to do that.
.
__________________
1995 Jeep gc ltd, 2005 Jeep gc ltd , 71 Dart, 73 RR 440-6pk, 78 Mag GT, 85 Power Ram W-350, 92 Daytona, 99 Dakota, 08 Ram 2500

Less than 8 is like playing with half a deck
]=Supershafts=[
Long Island Motorsports Association
Evildriver-3 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-09-2014, 08:43 PM   #27
Mk50
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 29
Yea that sounds pretty smart Jason.

I've heard that with a Detroit it will kick a lot driving it everyday is this true?
Mk50 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-09-2014, 09:00 PM   #28
Evildriver-3
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: , Suffolk, NY
Posts: 939
If you like driving your jeep now , then you'll get tired of having a locker in a short time.
__________________
1995 Jeep gc ltd, 2005 Jeep gc ltd , 71 Dart, 73 RR 440-6pk, 78 Mag GT, 85 Power Ram W-350, 92 Daytona, 99 Dakota, 08 Ram 2500

Less than 8 is like playing with half a deck
]=Supershafts=[
Long Island Motorsports Association
Evildriver-3 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-09-2014, 10:13 PM   #29
jason m
your ad here...
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,995
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mk50 View Post
Yea that sounds pretty smart Jason.

I've heard that with a Detroit it will kick a lot driving it everyday is this true?
Oh theres no dought you will feel it in the back, but you will also feel the 1K dollars for the ARB in the wallet, verse the 400 for the Detroit or 350 for the Sparton locker, which is getting good reviews and doesn't shock load break like the Detroit can.

The other nice thing about a drop in style locker like the Detroit or Sparton for the 14 B is no setting the gears after, just re adjust the collers, no setting the pinion depth. So anyone with some experence can do the locker in a under a hour, very simple.

But again its your build, we can only offer advise, but i will say big ticket items tend to slow down a build. Just search this site and you will see.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-10-2014, 03:15 AM   #30
Solidkm
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 461
So now I am aggresively researching the 14B for my build. This sucks as I have quite the collection of 60 parts already.

for my needs im not concerned at all on the strength of the 60 vs the 14B. Not even a question. BUT i am extremely attracted to the idea that they come full float, with 4.56s already. I have purchased press in spindles to make the 60 FF, but for the price alone of the custom shafts i need I could get a 14B. Im not happy about this new idea.

I have 2 questions.

1. Im overseas right now and my truck is a new generation GMC 2500. I am almost positive im looking at a 14B when i get under it. BUT i read in the bible that they stopped around 2000. Whats the deal? im going to look to see if it has the removable pinion support when i go outside. Question: The truck has a factory E locker.. is this unit any good? If it is in fact a 14B, is this version and E locker desirable for four wheeling?

2. Am I reading correct that some 14Bs came with a detroil locker from the factory? possibly the military GMs?

thanks
__________________
Popular 4WD formulas.
1. Building for the "smallest, lightest" platform equals building a suzuki samurai
2. A dana 44 JR is still not a dana 44 (Every .938" counts)
3. A ford 8.8 is the only axle that has the capability to snag rocks, and other obstacles. Avoid this axle
Solidkm is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools






Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.