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Unread 06-13-2014, 11:52 PM   #31
surreal0769
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2001 WJ 
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Crestone, CO
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Just to clarify how I did remove the balancer for those that are having trouble, I used a regular ratchet with a long 21mm socket and a "cheater bar" to give me really good leverage. Some people say that PVC pipe works good too. To keep the crank from moving I basically stuck a mini crowbar in the starter wheel that bolts to the transmission under the cover toward the back. Not in the teeth of it but in the access holes between the torque converter. I was a little worried about bending it or damaging the bedplate surface but that didn't happen from what I can tell and the only alternative I could think of was to stick something between the balancer that didn't sound too appealing. That said I noticed you could stick a kind of a side jawed wrench in the middle of the balancer and have it torque against the compression pulley assy though I didn't do it this way however I did to keep things from moving during the jaw puller phase and that worked very well. I think I would go this route next time for everything.

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Unread 06-14-2014, 12:08 AM   #32
surreal0769
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Also in hindsight, once you take apart an engine this far you don't really need to take the front of the car off with the radiator, hydraulic fan, pwr steering pump etc but it does make it easier to access things. It seems like a headache for me maybe since my pwr steering pump inlet just broke off with the hose and then it smashed in to the radiator and bent the vents a little, plus I'll have to buy new clips, and refill and bleed the fluid. If your putting a full engine back in all in one piece then I would recommend it but if your going to assemble it inside the car then you don't really need to in my opinion. It would be super easy to lift it out of the car at a 45 degree angle with the heads off and oil pan and put it in also. Plus bolting the exhaust Y back in with the oil pan off is preferable it would seem and then you can position the engine super easy and don't run in to as much of a problem if you didn't set the wires right after you put it back.
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Unread 06-18-2014, 01:47 AM   #33
surreal0769
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I take it back somewhat. It would have been far more difficult with the radiator and fan in. Got the engine out and bringing the crank, heads, engine, bedplate, oil pan, and oil pickup tube to the machine shop tomorrow. Bearings under the crank looked ok. Maybe a little worn on the thrust washers but everything is intact. I sprayed some carb cleaner in the intake of one of the heads I got and tipped the head. Two of the valves appear to leak when tipped but I'll have the machine shop confirm if these need to be resealed or not. The crankshaft looks fine except for the shaft that held the number 8 piston. It doesn't feel perfectly smooth but it is smooth. Hopefully they don't recommend a grind down on this, it's about 110. bucks for that. Again, 80. for engine bath and honing, and would be about 100. for heads if needed. If all goes well I'll be getting the rebuild kit next. The wrist pins in the pistons are the push in kind but the kit is cotter pin type. I'm going to see what the shop whats to pull the pins. If it's alot to push the pins out then I'm pretty sure I can do it with a hydraulic jack and some carefully placed sockets pressing up against something heavy like a car..
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Unread 06-19-2014, 09:44 PM   #34
surreal0769
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Brought the engine, heads, and crankshaft to the machine shop today. Looks like they agree that heads just need cleaning and leveling and engine needs to be washed and honed. So $180. for that, and looks like the crankshaft is going to be bad so I'll have to grab one of those. I'm getting one for $233. at Autozone w 3mo warranty. Rebuild kit is about $600.00 but I decided since the crankshaft comes with all bearings I would just buy stuff ala-carte so it comes to about $450. Machine shop recommends new #8 connecting rod also. Looks like the entire rebuild with misc costs will come to about roughly $1100-1200. bucks. The car was $1300, so a combined total of about $2500.. Once it's running with the rebuild engine and new transmission it should be worth in the neighborhood of $7000. I think. I'm going to keep it though and just have a reliable car for a long time to come.
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Unread 06-19-2014, 10:03 PM   #35
XJTexas
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My two cents,

Just saw this post. Looks like the oil was Overheated and probably Paraffin based from the looks of it. The piston problem you had is normally due to moisture (probably head gasket leak) and causes corrosion to the aluminum piston top where it sees heat & sulfur from the fuel. Looks like you have a good plan of attack going so good luck with it!
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Unread 06-20-2014, 10:53 PM   #36
surreal0769
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Thanks for the positive feedback and sounds like a good explanation for the initial issue with the piston. I ordered all new parts today including the crankshaft. The reluctor wheel was a little difficult coming off, kind of stripped the star bolts a little. Hope the new cs comes with those. I had to bring the heads back in because the exhaust manifolds were on so I did that today. The timing chain guides come off with the same star bit. I left the bit at Autozone after I ordered the crank so when I got to the machine shop I couldn't take them off. Luckily the guy had one already and took them off for me. He had to hammer on them a bit and had a way more heavy duty tool. He said someone put lock tight on them which made it more difficult. Not sure if I would have stripped those up too but glad I didn't have to find out. At least those were deeper for the bit to fit in to. When I took off the exhaust manifolds the bolts were breaking off left and right literally. I lost about maybe 4 or 5 of them. I still have some from my old heads but I hope they don't snap as I'm putting them back on. The only thing left to buy is the fluids, and bed plate sealer, guess I'm doing HOAT since my radiator came with it in there. Got a used pwr steering pump from the stupid plastic inlet that broke off before. I'm going to start taking hoses off of the cheap side first from now on or maybe if in doubt just cut the sucker. At least I remembered not to take off my heater hoses at the firewall. That would be a more aggravating mistake if that snapped. My A/C is still intact, hopefully I can keep it that way too. When I took off the bumper I accidentally broke the main clip but got one for free at the junk yard down the road and the other various plastic clips. I'll post pictures of the reverse install later. I might post a few about the transmission replacement also.
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Unread 06-20-2014, 10:58 PM   #37
surreal0769
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Actually had a question about my old transmission if anyone knows. I turned the torque converter on it by hand and it makes a "brushing" or maybe a minimal "scraping" sound once per rotation at one certain point. I think it even makes a continuous sound as you turn it right a very light brushing. Is this normal? I have the new one and haven't put on the converter there yet but I'm guessing this is a bad thing for the old one. Mainly want to know because I was planning on selling the old one with 149k miles on it. Works perfect and never noticed anything seemingly irregular except this.
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Unread 06-21-2014, 07:11 AM   #38
mopartech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy View Post
The jaw style puller pictured above should be fine - it doesn't grab the outside of the balancer (which would put pressure on the rubber), it grabs the inside. See how small it is?

- Justin
Absolutely bad advice! The correct tool is the balancer puller pictured in the post. This is the only tool to safely pull the balancer. I am a Master Chrysler technician and recommend following my advice. Also when you reassemble the engine buy the updated rocker arms from mopar to prevent further rocker spitting. There is also an updated pcv system that really helps with the slugging in the engine.
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Unread 06-21-2014, 12:49 PM   #39
surreal0769
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Do you have a link to the updated rocker arms and pcv setup? Not sure if I can budget that now but would be good to know for future reference.
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Unread 06-21-2014, 02:52 PM   #40
XJTexas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surreal0769
Do you have a link to the updated rocker arms and pcv setup? Not sure if I can budget that now but would be good to know for future reference.
Please share the P/N's if able.
Thanks!
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Unread 06-24-2014, 07:40 PM   #41
mopartech
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Any mopar dealer can get them for you, you can't get the old style anymore as they had a tendency for popping out. The pcv system update works well and cost around $70 the last time I sold one. Will get part numbers for updated rockers tomorrow.
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Unread 06-24-2014, 09:38 PM   #42
XJTexas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mopartech
Any mopar dealer can get them for you, you can't get the old style anymore as they had a tendency for popping out. The pcv system update works well and cost around $70 the last time I sold one. Will get part numbers for updated rockers tomorrow.
Thanks for the help Mopartech!!!
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Unread 06-26-2014, 02:56 AM   #43
surreal0769
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I have my parts back from the machine shop and a new crankshaft. Autozone didn't come through and apparently stopped carrying the part after I ordered it. I ended up getting one from Oreily's and they delivered it whithin 3 hours! Machine shop recommended getting a new timing cover also. I lost one of my crankshaft timing screw / Reluctor wheel screw. Was looking for it all day. Pretty much the only thing stopping me from putting this together now. Not sure where to get another one. There was one at Lowes but looked like a cheaper metal and it was a phillips instead of a torx screw.
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Unread 06-26-2014, 12:30 PM   #44
mopartech
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Call your dealer, they should be able to get next day
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Unread 06-27-2014, 09:12 AM   #45
surreal0769
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I've got the engine back in bolted to transmission and done with hoists and such. I figured I'll need to bring my pistons to the machine shop to remove the press in pins for the connecting rods. I set the timing in just to get a feel for it. Found out I was missing a crankshaft key for the bottom timing wheel. Luckily the place I bought the new one from OReilly's still had it and even came to my house to give it to me. It was a bit of a pain getting the thing in, Still need to go and get a new timing cover and waiting to get my power steering pump in the mail. I'm going to have to install the pistons while inside the car because the hoist needed to go back. I anticipate it will not be fun but I took them out that way.. I'm feeling a bit tired and just drained today. Just hoping the machine shop does those pins quick and I can find a good timing cover fast at the junk yard.
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