[darylej]

2005 Unlimited 6 speed with 35,000 miles- bought new....

So I am entering the expressway in traffic and hit just over 4k rpm accelarating down the ramp in 3rd- when shifting to 4th the engine light pops on and car starts to buck. I make it back across the traffic and right back off the freeway as the "Check Gauges" indicator lights up- I am still in heavy Dallas traffic so it takes maybe 20 seconds more to get pulled off the road and shut down.

So I restart after a minute and it takes pumping the gas to get to start but runs normally. Within a few seconds "Check Gauges" comes back on and I scan the gauges to see oil pressure is near the bottom and I assume that it should be higher but never really paid attention to where it was before.

So I shut down and pop the hood- plenty of oil- no leaks, no overheat, etc.
I am thinking maybe a bad sender or something.
So it restarts but still takes some gas to start and I try to limp back home 1 mile- engine seems normal under light load but after 1/2 mile I hear ticking lifters and recognize that sound so shut down for good- pretty sure there is an actual oil pressure problem now.

So my main question is - how in heck can an oil pump fail instantaneously at 35k Miles ?

This engine has had regular oil changes although I am overdue at 8K miles since last change. The oil still looks fine and is full- no driving in dusty/hot conditions either so I don't see how this could cause any real problems at this mileage.

[KMD]

you can try an oil change and use a wix filter,but it sounds like something broke. just out of the 3 year 36k warranty bummer.

[backwoodsgoop]

remove oil sender ,crank over confirm no oil, with the lifters tickin probrobly so, mark and remove distributor and check oil pump drive rod , If for whatever reason oil pump locked up drive rod would be snapped.

[darylej]

thanks guys-

something like a broken drive rod would make the most sense.....it happened in an instant. I just can't believe that these drivetrains are built so shoddily- this same jeep needed a full tranny rebuild at 3000 miles also.

Unless I am reading the warranty wrong then I have a 7/70 drivetrain warranty so it should be covered- just worried that they will hassle me for letting the oil change go past 6000 miles....

[skip11and1]

Originally Posted by darylej

just worried that they will hassle me for letting the oil change go past 6000 miles....

they shouldnt...check ur owners manual mine says that during normal driving conditions the oil can be changed at 7500 miles or every 6months... i dont wait that long but check urs... i have a 2000 XJ

[RogueSpear2023]

Originally Posted by backwoodsgoop

remove oil sender ,crank over confirm no oil, with the lifters tickin probrobly so, mark and remove distributor and check oil pump drive rod , If for whatever reason oil pump locked up drive rod would be snapped.

There is no distributor, distributorless ignition after 1999. He has coils.

Originally Posted by darylej

thanks guys-

something like a broken drive rod would make the most sense.....it happened in an instant. I just can't believe that these drivetrains are built so shoddily- this same jeep needed a full tranny rebuild at 3000 miles also.

Unless I am reading the warranty wrong then I have a 7/70 drivetrain warranty so it should be covered- just worried that they will hassle me for letting the oil change go past 6000 miles....

What kind of oil are you using regular dino should be changed every 3000 miles, otherwise you should be able to run synthetic to 5000 miles, but 6000 is a lot of miles to run with out an oil change unless you are running synthetic. Also the dealer thinks you should change every 3,000 no matter what. I just wouldn't tell them if you can help it. The drive trains are not shotty if taken care of you obviously don't, they can run to 300K+.

[backwoodsgoop]

even with a distibutor less ignition sys there will still usually be a gear and drive rod where the distributor used to be. unless they compleatly redesigned the 4.ol

[darylej]

It was the oil pump rod that snapped....

My next question is how the heck can this happen at 35K miles ?

This engine has had 7 oil changes and never seen any more stress than is normal for Dallas city street driving and 1 highway road trip 1000 miles.

This defect was covered by the 7/70 drivetrain warranty, but I believe the engine might be damaged after running with a bad oil pump if even for 1 mile.

By the time I got off the expressway and shut down, the engine was ticking (valves I suppose).

All the dealer did was replace the oil pump and claim they inspected the bearings but I do not believe that they pulled the bearing caps.

Since leaving the dealer shop the engine has an erratic idle, basically when coming to a stop, the idle drops way down to approx 250 rpm then bounces back up to about 1200 rpm before settling.

Is this maybe a sticky valve or bad compression ? All I know is this is a new problem that was not there before the oil pump went bad and I am sure it is related.....

I think they should have pulled the caps and at least done a compression check. I am worried that I will end up with a spun bearing....

[darylej]

sorry but just because an engine can last 300K does not mean much - I had an 81 oldsmobile cutlass that went 300k but most were lucky to get 80K.

this entire 05 wrangler is shoddy - JD power rates the powetrain dependability at 2 out of 5

I suppose that I take issue with the idea that my allowing an oil change to go over has anything at all to do with the problems with this vehicle....


Problems I have had with this jeep in 35K miles :



Full transmission rebuild at 3k miles (5th gear popout)

Piston slap noise (may be clutch throwout bearing making this noise) - this noise was noticed at delivery - dealer claims no problems and is normal

Severe death wobble at 55 MPH (started at 5k miles - dealer claims no problem- problem continues)

Entire soft top replaced at 20K miles (defective stitching)

DS softop hinge replaced at 15K

both DS and PS soft top hinges replaced (again) at 25K

DS visor fell off at 12k

DS doorstrap broken at 20k

PS doorstrap broken at 30K

cruise control switch malfunction (will not disengage) at 10K (repaired)

cruise control malfunction returned at 20K

cd player stopped returning discs at 10K

cd player stopped reading discs at 30K

DS interior panel screw fell out at 12K

crank sensor malfunction at 12K

wiper motor broken at 15K

PS floormat hook broken at 30K

Rear soft window stitching coming apart at 30K

Rear soft window gasket partially separated from frame at 15K (repaired)

Rear soft window gasket completely separated from frame at 30K

Oil Pump driveshaft broken at 35K




This car has never been offroad except for a few residential construction sites (shallow mud) - garaged 90% and driven in temperate dallas weather 99% -and other than the last oil change going over has been serviced according to the owner manual.


So glad you guys are happy with your jeeps but I understand now why it only cost 23K - we are talking about a chrysler after all.

[Holder350]

Did you buy this jeep new??

I would be asking the dealer for a buy back....however you ARE out of the 24,000 mile limit on the lemon law.

[brodon]

Damn, that sucks. Most people dont seem to have that kind of luck with theirs, but i just got an '05 myself and you got me a little worried. However, most of those items you mentioned are very nit-picky little things. Hope you have better luck going forward.

[darylej]

Hey Brodon-

I wish you luck with your 05.

My advice is to be very delicate with it - especially the doorstraps, cd player, soft top, floormats, etc.

I might call these items nit-picky if I bought the car used with 100K but I bought brand new from Huffines in Dallas.

Besides, even if you discount the cosmetic items you still have a bad tranny, crank sensor and oil pump....

Anyway - I wish you better luck.