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Unread 06-19-2014, 12:27 PM   #16
brandon789
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I'll get a picture when I can, it is identical to the stock distributor externally. Cylinder 1 can never be directly opposite of the block, neither my stock or this distributor will bolt in like that, it is slightly offset to the front. The distributor didn't come with instructions, I followed these

scan0001.jpg   scan0002.jpg  
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Unread 06-19-2014, 01:01 PM   #17
laybackman
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Spec this video out;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRHW0i3V6qM

BUT this engine has to be at TDC on the compression stroke. The distributor can be installed in ANY position as long as the oil pump shaft allows it to do so.
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Unread 06-19-2014, 01:27 PM   #18
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Here is a write up I put together to attempt to help anyone who pulled their distributor and now got a bit confused.

Pull #1 spark plug. Insert finger in #1 spark plug hole.

Turn engine by the harmonic balancer bolt head with socket and breaker bar until you feel a whoosh of air pushing past that finger in #1 cylinder.

Remove finger and slide something long and thin like a piece of straightened coat hanger or thin wooden dowel into #1 cylinder.

Now, SLOWLY bring #1 piston up to TDC. Watch that coat hanger or dowel. Once you feel the whoosh of air and the piston is at its highest point this engine is now at TDC of the compression stroke.

Now check your timing marks. They should be at TDC also. Pull your distributor cap. Your rotor should be at or just before #1 tower of that mark you made noting the position of #1 tower on your distributor cap.

If not, something is not right….obviously. That could be a jumped timing chain, or a bad distributor gear. If the timing marks are off but it runs fine then the most likely culprit is the harmonic balancer which is a two piece affair has had the outside layer ‘slip’ so the marks are off but the timing is correct.

If your rotor is not where it should be and everything else is OK pull the distributor.

Note the position of the tab on the bottom end of the distributor shaft. It has to fit into the slot of the oil pump drive shaft.

Note the cut of the drive gear for the distributor. They are helical cut (slanted). You have to 'guesstimate' where that slot should be when you are installing the distributor. For a Jeep 4.0 that would be at the 11 o'clock position if you are standing by the passenger's side fender, the right side of the engine, facing the engine.

Your rotor should be roughly pointed at the 9 o'clock position when you start to slide the distributor in. Keep in mind that the rotor will turn some and end up aligned with that oil pump drive shaft. Also the slot for the hold down bolt will be aligned.

Just ahead of where your rotor is pointed is #1 position for the distributor cap.

Note that position and then add the plug wires in the proper firing order. For a 4.0 it is 1 5 3 6 2 4.

Slap on cap, and try to fire her up. You may need to move the distributor some if necessary and use a timing light to set the time BUT on the newer engines timing is governed by the 'brain' and is not adjustable.
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Unread 06-19-2014, 01:31 PM   #19
brandon789
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Why would my rotor be pointed at 9 when sliding it in. That's 180 degrees from where the point for 1 is which is at roughly 5. The video uses the newer style distributor that I think they switched to in 1994, mine doesn't have a spot for a punch to line it up

Last edited by brandon789; 06-19-2014 at 01:44 PM..
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Unread 06-19-2014, 01:33 PM   #20
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My firing order is set right and the mark for tdc is spot on.
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Unread 06-19-2014, 02:11 PM   #21
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandon789 View Post
My firing order is set right and the mark for tdc is spot on.
Not to argue with you but if the timing is right and you got fuel at the proper pressure and spark this bad boy should be running. The only thing you messed with is the distributor, so I'm thinking start fresh.
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Unread 06-19-2014, 02:22 PM   #22
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Does this distributor have an alignment hole on the bottom side of the distributor? It locks the rotor in the #1 position??
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Unread 06-19-2014, 02:26 PM   #23
brandon789
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I think it is a timing issue but I don't get how. I've tried it at all settings around the point for cylinder 1 with the engine at tdc and the best I've gotten is it to run very rough and backfire but one notch in either direction and it won't start. When I got it to do that the rotor was past the point for cylinder 1 with the engine at tdc so I would assume that is very advanced. At that notch it sounded louder and deeper than usual and the engine idle rough and wouldn't rev past 2.5k before it would sputter and drop back down in rpm.

My distributor has no way to align and lock it in, at least not that I can tell. other than the hole for the back of the rotor there isn't any spot in the top and the bottom doesn't have any holes except for what looks like a drain hole.
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Unread 06-19-2014, 03:02 PM   #24
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It ended up being a vacuum issue. I once again timed it exactly as described in the pages I posted and it wouldn't start. After that I checked all the engine wiring and all the fuses again, which where fine then I moved on to vacuum hoses. All were fine but the vacuum line going to the MAP on the firewall was blocked. Cleaned it out with some carb cleaner and it started right up. The only thing I can think of is when I did the oil pan I also cleaned the throttle body and the CCV so maybe somehow that caused debris to fly up and get in the vacuum line for the MAP.
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Unread 06-19-2014, 05:43 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandon789 View Post
It ended up being a vacuum issue. I once again timed it exactly as described in the pages I posted and it wouldn't start. After that I checked all the engine wiring and all the fuses again, which where fine then I moved on to vacuum hoses. All were fine but the vacuum line going to the MAP on the firewall was blocked. Cleaned it out with some carb cleaner and it started right up. The only thing I can think of is when I did the oil pan I also cleaned the throttle body and the CCV so maybe somehow that caused debris to fly up and get in the vacuum line for the MAP.
A stinking clogged vacuum line for the MAP!? W ho would have thunk.... Yet another weird way for a YJ to drive you crazy.....


Glad you got this little devil running!
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Unread 06-19-2014, 08:57 PM   #26
brandon789
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Yeah, weirdest solution for a problem I've ever had. Thanks for the help
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Unread 06-20-2014, 06:41 AM   #27
laybackman
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Yeah, weirdest solution for a problem I've ever had. Thanks for the help
I've heard of cracked or broken vacuum lines but a clogged one...How the heck did that happen!?

It will be one discovery you (or I) won't forget! Good Luck!
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Getting older, I have developed some special skills. I have the ability to cough, sneeze, fart and pee at the same time.

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Unread 06-20-2014, 08:00 AM   #28
brandon789
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I have no idea. I pulled the line and couldn't blow through it. It took 2 good sprays with carb cleaner before it went through and didn't spray back out the end. My CCV gets clogged all the time and the vacuum hoses are right next to each other on the manifold so that might have been part of the problem.
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