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Unread 05-08-2014, 09:28 PM   #1
HICKS25
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1976 dj5d seized engine rescue...

I am attempting to un seize the engine with atf in the sparkplug holes. Letting it sit till tomorrow night and I'll start the manual labor of trying to turn it. Anyone succeeded at this or have advice I would appreciate the input.
Summer of 03 is the last time she ran. No water in oil, no fluid on top of cylinders. Hopefully not cracked.

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Unread 05-08-2014, 09:35 PM   #2
HICKS25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HICKS25 View Post
I am attempting to un seize the engine with atf in the sparkplug holes. Letting it sit till tomorrow night and I'll start the manual labor of trying to turn it. Anyone succeeded at this or have advice I would appreciate the input.
Summer of 03 is the last time she ran. No water in oil, no fluid on top of cylinders. Hopefully not cracked.

Sent from my Samsung S4. Courtesy of all errors.


Sent from my Samsung S4. Courtesy of all errors.
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Unread 05-09-2014, 09:17 AM   #3
strvger01
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nice find. good luck with the engine. if it doesn't work, replacement 6 cylinder engines are pretty plentiful. you shouldn't have any problems finding a replacement. looks like you have a 1970's model? if so , the AMC 232 and 258 will bolt right up. the 304 v8 should hook up to your bell housing, iirc, but you'd need different motor mounts for the v8.
good luck to you and welcome to the site!
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Unread 05-09-2014, 11:39 AM   #4
HICKS25
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Thanks for the positive response. Ive been looking all morning for a v8 that'll work with my 727 and 300 tcase.

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Unread 05-09-2014, 11:40 AM   #5
HICKS25
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It's a 1976 dj5d with a 258 727 and a 300 tcase.

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Unread 05-09-2014, 06:23 PM   #6
strvger01
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you might try some research. the 727 tranny is chrysler. you might find that one of their venerable mopar 318ci engine will work. maybe even the 360ci, idk.
good luck to you.
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Unread 07-28-2014, 01:37 PM   #7
HICKS25
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Originally Posted by strvger01 View Post
nice find. good luck with the engine. if it doesn't work, replacement 6 cylinder engines are pretty plentiful. you shouldn't have any problems finding a replacement. looks like you have a 1970's model? if so , the AMC 232 and 258 will bolt right up. the 304 v8 should hook up to your bell housing, iirc, but you'd need different motor mounts for the v8.
good luck to you and welcome to the site!
Back at my project after a finishing others. I noticed a cross member under my 232 has a 3/8" gap between the front differential. This jeep was converted to a 4x4. If I drop a 350 v8 in do the new mounts still require the cross member?

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Unread 07-29-2014, 07:03 AM   #8
rjbruzan
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Does the engine spin yet?
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Unread 07-30-2014, 03:19 PM   #9
HICKS25
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I'm buying a few parts this week. I'll get something spinning this weekend.
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Unread 07-30-2014, 05:21 PM   #10
HICKS25
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Would love some help at getting this ol 232 running.
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Unread 07-30-2014, 08:19 PM   #11
BIGBADWOLF
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Spin motor over by hand before using starter. Seen many broken pushrods because this rule was not followed.
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Unread 08-03-2014, 10:53 AM   #12
jeepdaddy2000
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First thing to do is pull the valve train. This will eliminate the chance your dealing with a stuck valve, which is very common on vehicles that have been sitting a long time. Forcing the crank with a bad valve will bend push rods and/ or damage the valve/guide.

If you still can't get the engine to turn by hand, you're best bet is to pull the head.
This will allow you to take a soft mallet and a 2X4 and gently tap on the offending piston. This is a much better method than forcing it to move via the crankshaft. If you squirt PB or the like around the rings, then just tap the pistion a bit. This usually allows the rings to flex a bit and the lube to penetrate the ring lands and cylinder walls. DO NOT FORCE THE PISTON unless you have to. Forcing it will insure the culinder wall being bunged up to the point you will probably have to bore. Sometimes you don't have a choice, just don't get impatient and have at it early on in the process.

Once the piston moves, you can easly see the cylinder wall to make an assessment. You will also be able to drop the piston and clean the lands and inspect/replace the rings, as well as hone the cylinder if it is salvagable.
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Unread 08-06-2014, 12:16 PM   #13
HICKS25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000 View Post
First thing to do is pull the valve train. This will eliminate the chance your dealing with a stuck valve, which is very common on vehicles that have been sitting a long time. Forcing the crank with a bad valve will bend push rods and/ or damage the valve/guide.

If you still can't get the engine to turn by hand, you're best bet is to pull the head.
This will allow you to take a soft mallet and a 2X4 and gently tap on the offending piston. This is a much better method than forcing it to move via the crankshaft. If you squirt PB or the like around the rings, then just tap the pistion a bit. This usually allows the rings to flex a bit and the lube to penetrate the ring lands and cylinder walls. DO NOT FORCE THE PISTON unless you have to. Forcing it will insure the culinder wall being bunged up to the point you will probably have to bore. Sometimes you don't have a choice, just don't get impatient and have at it early on in the process.

Once the piston moves, you can easly see the cylinder wall to make an assessment. You will also be able to drop the piston and clean the lands and inspect/replace the rings, as well as hone the cylinder if it is salvagable.
Thanks for the advice. I'll tale what I can get.
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Unread 08-06-2014, 12:18 PM   #14
HICKS25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGBADWOLF View Post
Spin motor over by hand before using starter. Seen many broken pushrods because this rule was not followed.
She doesn't turn freely by hand. I am thinking about pulling her out and going the 350 rout. Deciding if I want to spend any money on something I would like to replace in the future.
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