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Unread 09-02-2012, 07:38 PM   #1
revelc
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Oddball 360 build.. need some answers.

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Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Tyler, Texas Posts: 53 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps

Oddball 360 build. Need some help guys..

I have been debating in how to make power. I'm about to have about $2500 to build up the motor. I already have performed the following engine mods ..

MSD everything New timing junk 260h cam MSD cam and dizzy gears Performer intake Holley 4 bbl Straight 2.5" pipe ( considering 3" ) Alum radiator New water pump New oil pump

I have the 58cc heads. I want to bump it up to 400+ft-lbs on pump gas. Horsepower will be icing on the cake. Whether it's with nitrous out without. I will do light wheeling, use it as DD, and I want to be able to surprise the coal rolling rednecks in their chipped diesels and rice burners. I'll also be using it over seas in my relief/missions work hence 85 octane.

I have 155k on the clock. Strong compression.

Could I run a 50-100hp shot on the stock internals until it burns a piston?

If I run nitrous do I need SS valves?

Should I forgoe the nitrous and run 9.5:1 or 10:1 with Eddie heads? Would that net me the power I desire? I don't have access to the internet very often so any links and help is VERY APPRECIATED.

P.S. I'm running a 360. Not a SBC, 401, or propane. I'm solid in my decision.

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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 09-06-2012, 03:31 AM   #2
hutch1200
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I'm making 415+hp(during breakin) w/my 360.
Keep in mind that my low end isn't that hot, so I went w/a T-18 so I can have a granny gear. But I'm using 93 octane+boost (hey it was breakin, not wanting to chance it), comp cams 292, roller rockers, Air Gap intake, HEI and bulltear 10.5 forged pistons. Forged pistons are a MUST for Nitrous, not neccessarily valves. I wouldn't go over a 50hp shot w/stock internals. I have over 40 hours in the heads. That is where the power is to be had. If you are gonna spin it above 5500 you may want to go to the CJ forum and search for "V8 oiling mod".
I really think nitrous is the way to go to achieve your goals. How were the cam bearings during the swap. Mine collapsed when taking out the old cam. But the crank was fine, at 88k.
I found most of my info at different AMC racing sites.
Good Luck, and God Bless for your work.
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Unread 09-06-2012, 07:50 AM   #3
revelc
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Thank you for the helpful response. I want to run reg. grade pump. I gave bulltear a call and he told me I need a set of his 9:5 .030 over forged plugs and Chromoly rings.

Could I run 10:1 or would I need aluminum heads?

If so could I run 10:1 with pump premium until I hot some Edelbrock heads?

I would only hit it with a 150HP shot. Holley makes a hidden fogger kit in an adjustable 50-100-150HP flavors. Plenty for playing around. I'll be running a seperate electric fuel pump when I set it up. I want to do the build in stages until I'm satisfied.

Stage one was:
4bbl, Edelbrock performer intake, 2.5" straight pipe, 260h, MSD pro-billet, wires, coil, new water pump, new oil pump, timing chain and gears, MSD dizzy and cam gears, summit aluminum radiator.

Next would be:
9.5:1-10:1 forged pistons, cam bearing mod, .030 over, .010 under, chromoly pushrods ( in case I decide to later go to bigger cam ), Double roller ( cam came with single ), electric fuel pump, valve springs, heads checked and lightly milled.

Stage 3: Maybe a larger cam ( split dur. 270-280?) , Nos kit, Edelbrock heads, scorpion rollers.

Each stage is around $2,000-$2,500 increments.

I'd be willing to bump the cam to a comp 270h or summit 8600 because my budget has a little cushion left after my initial cost calculation for stage 2. But I'd like to leave a small cam for low end oomph. Lope is great, but I want to pull down a house and be forced back in my seat from light to light while retaining higher mpg highway manners.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 09-06-2012, 07:56 AM   #4
revelc
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Btw my cam bearing in the front was cracked but I swapped cams anyways. I was gentle and I'll be replacing all the bearings when I swap pistons when I get back from Colorado in the spring.
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Wag Rebuilt 360, 260H, 727, Locked 44, AMC 20, 208, 31" M/T's, 4" Rustys, 2.5" Duals. SOON:SOA SF, 496, T400, Doubler, D60's, 37" M/T's <-TOY
Cherokee Rebuilt 360, 2" Duals, mostly stock. SOON: Hot Street 401, 4'' Rustys, 33" BFG A/T's maybe a T-case to get rid of Q-Track <-TOW RIG
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Unread 09-08-2012, 12:23 AM   #5
hutch1200
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I like your plan. I like the 260 cam and 9:1 compression. For 1/2 the price of Alum heads, you could have your iron heads ported to outflow the alum heads. Or do some research,
buy a dremel and do it yourself! http://www.mondello.com/index.htm buy the book used on amazon or ebay. They sell a porting kit for $350. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0412em_porting_cylinder_heads/viewall.htmlThe alum heads are said to allow more compression because of their heat dissipating capacity. However I googled "iron vs alum heads & Comp ratio" (IIRC) and found some really heated discussions on that very topic. It really surprised me as I thought that was a golden rule w/alum heads. (?) Eastwood has a kit too.
A good port job, even for just a little bit more flow and de-burring would drop temps noticably too. Even w/alum heads they should be port matched to your intake and headers, yeah money on top of $1600 heads! Get the best valves you can afford. I think the 9.0 vs 10.5-ish compression won't be noticed w/nitrous. I plan on the same NOS kit under a Holley T/A 670. It sounds like you may have different altitudes you'll be operating in? I'm hearing Colo/Tex/Overseas..so that's why I ask. If so, have you considered a "junkyard GM EFI" setup? I think w/proper research on this forum, and some scenic strolls in junkyards, you should be able to get something sweet. A TBI (throttle body) kit looks like a carb, so sliding the fogger plate under it shouldn't be a problem. Of course a multi port EFI would be nice, and just drill nozzle holes. But the MPI route sounds more expensive. Plus w/FI you may be able to tune the engine for octane/TQ/cam and exhaust changes/extreme temps etc....from a laptop. I'm surprised more people haven't chimed in. Good luck, I'm subscribed.
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