Cheap Power Mods For The XJ... - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 42 Old 10-02-2006, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
n20jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPINWI
On another note, I'm also building my stroker on a tight budget. I've been building the stroker for almost 2 years, but I'm not cutting any corners. Almost everything has been bought through eBay. Total cost of my stroker has been about $1300 to get me this:
what parts are you using in the shortblock?

looks preety

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post #32 of 42 Old 10-02-2006, 10:39 PM
GrayBomb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgertsch
Except the ECU will only read the IAT at WOT. Hell, let me know how it works. Can't take longer than 5 minutes to do.
I did it. You wouldnt notice a difference in power but readings before the switchover was about 130 deg F at an idle and now its the actual temp. The IAT does give a reading at an idle i was using a snap-on computer, I dont know what the computer does with the signal but i did get a reading.
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post #33 of 42 Old 10-03-2006, 08:12 AM
IVIYTH0S
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im not too familiar with all the electrical and computer sensors are they hard and worth it to change?
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post #34 of 42 Old 10-03-2006, 01:01 PM
JEEPINWI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n20jeep
what parts are you using in the shortblock?

looks preety
Ahhh, lets see...
-4.0 block from 98 XJ
-12 CW crank and rods from an 85 4.2L
-Sealed Power 677P pistons
-Clevite 77 rod and main bearings(standard size)
-ARP rod bolts
-Cloyes timing chain and gears
-Crane Cam 753905 260/272 duration, .456/.484" lift
-Melling high volume oil pump
-New OE water pump
-OE distributor
-FelPro rear main seal

I think that's it for the short block. Did I forget anything?

Brian-
99 XJ Cherokee, 2 door, 4.6L Stroker, 5 speed, 4x4, 8.25" rear, 3.07 gears
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post #35 of 42 Old 10-03-2006, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPINWI
Ahhh, lets see...
-4.0 block from 98 XJ
-12 CW crank and rods from an 85 4.2L
-Sealed Power 677P pistons
-Clevite 77 rod and main bearings(standard size)
-ARP rod bolts
-Cloyes timing chain and gears
-Crane Cam 753905 260/272 duration, .456/.484" lift
-Melling high volume oil pump
-New OE water pump
-OE distributor
-FelPro rear main seal

I think that's it for the short block. Did I forget anything?
where did u get ur crank and rods?

also, are u changing your transmission? i have the AX-15, and im thinkin about goin to the NV3550, and a dana 44 rearend, the 8 1/4 will probably hold up to it, i just want to be safe...

1998 Jeep Cherokee, OME Lift, Loud Exhaust...
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post #36 of 42 Old 10-04-2006, 09:55 AM
JEEPINWI
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I was lucky enough to get a running 4.2L engine off eBay for $5.50(not a misprint). I am going to stick with my AX-15 tranny since others have had no problems running a stroker in front ir it. I know of at least one guy with a stroker and his Dana 35 rear end is holding up to the abuse. I'm not one bit worried about my 8.25 rear end breaking from the stroker. If your stroker is going into a Jeep that rarely sees offroad, you're wasting your money on the Dana 44. I think the D44 is only 10-20% stronger than the 8.25 anyways.

Brian-
99 XJ Cherokee, 2 door, 4.6L Stroker, 5 speed, 4x4, 8.25" rear, 3.07 gears
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post #37 of 42 Old 10-08-2006, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexrule123
don't forget removing the engine..that ought to save you around 500 lbs of dead weight
It's about the power to weight ratio, so you remove the engine you lose lots of weight, but FAR more power...unless you plan on pushing it :P
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post #38 of 42 Old 10-08-2006, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airmanutz
It's about the power to weight ratio, so you remove the engine you lose lots of weight, but FAR more power...unless you plan on pushing it :P
what if the race is down hill?? check and mate

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post #39 of 42 Old 07-02-2010, 10:36 AM
cherokeekid58
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If I flop the IAT sensor to the air box will it mess anything up if Im running a 180 degree thermastat and a stage 2 jet performance chip?

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So far it seems correlated to OCD and the need to look at one's poop."
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post #40 of 42 Old 07-12-2010, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherokeekid58 View Post
If I flop the IAT sensor to the air box will it mess anything up if Im running a 180 degree thermastat and a stage 2 jet performance chip?
it wont hurt anything, except maybe your low throttle mpg's

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post #41 of 42 Old 07-24-2010, 01:47 PM
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Flux-Capacitor and high octaine bliker fluid. Guaranteed to add atleast 120 more horsepower.
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post #42 of 42 Old 08-05-2010, 04:30 PM
seXJ
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I bought an SLR performance chip for $70 it is supposed to regulate air intake and give more power but im not sure how much it actually did. I recomend making your own cold air intake for under $100 its quick cheap and easy but if you dont do that you should at least take out the restricter in the stock hose and drill holes in your airbox to suck in more air. I also put on a flowmaster 40 with no cat and it gave me more power, better gas milage and AMAZING sound.
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