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Unread 02-27-2008, 05:37 PM   #1
alexrule123
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AW4 Shift Kit

Well I was bored at work and came across this from a Supra Forum

http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267655
Quote:
How to make a a340 last(56kers take a nap)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

**EDIT** Just linking this thread to answer some quick questions. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...=408088&page=2 Zazzn.

These are my own little tricks to make a a340 last. If you are rebuilding it, or having it rebuilt, install kevlar clutches, they tend to do best. Also, you must have a larger cooler on your car! Heat kills 90% of these transmissions. The other trick is to lock the detent(kick down cable) in full open, and to shim two of the accumulators, which is the only true way of decreasing shift time. this well affect the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Here's a brief walk through of that process...

Im in the process of making a full website with more intensive photos and walkthrough, stay tuned
After having one servere issue arise(we are working to correct it) I must strongly advise the following points.
1: It is best to do this mod with the transmission out of the car, the time saved by just pulling it will payoff on assembly
2: Get a new gasket, they are VERY sensitive to dust and such and can distort and bleed pressure
3: DO NOT OVER TOURQUE THE BOLTS. This is CRUICIAL you can warp the valve body or the transmission case when you do this. The spec is around INCH LBS, No airtools allowed for the valve body!
4: Do not mix your bolts up, they go in certain places.

The issue that has arrisen is a car shifting into reverse when it should go into overdrive, and it appears to be a pressure bleedoff issue, once we have that exact cause located, I will post it, and ways to avoid it.

Remove transmission(my preference)

Remove the transmission pan bolts, I marked most of them, you can figure it out...

Remove the filter with the three marked bolts. Also there are two metal tubes, I already had them out so I drew them in, gently pry back and forth and they will come out

The fun part, my recommendation is do not take the bolts out of the valve body, they are specific on their location.
Completely loosen the brown arrows, loose till there is slack on the bracket for the purple arrow, and remove electrical connectors marked by blue. Before you can remove the valve body, you must disconnect the kick down cable, see next picture to see the bottom side of it


This is what everything looks like once you get the valve body off, The two "things" marked are accumulators, those two are the only ones we are concerned with at this time

A close up of the accumulators

This is the first accumulator stretched out, the trick to getting them out is to push them all the way down and let them pop up... only way I can get them out.(this is the b-2 accumulator 1-2)

This is the bottom side of the accumulator(the one without the solid rod, that would be put in first going back in) This is where you want to place your shims, you want the shims to be about 1/3 of the spring travel, unless you don't care about you neck and you're tires breaking loose every shift.

Make 100% sure that you do not block this port, if you do, you're screwed.


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Unread 02-27-2008, 05:39 PM   #2
alexrule123
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Quote:
This is the c-2 accumulator 2-3 see above for details

inside c-2 place shims as above

Again, don't block this port

This is just a reference picture, of how far the travel is, but you'll be figuring that out on you're own.
again reference, this is the outside of the tranny, to from the right, b-2,c-2, then the kick down cable.

Final reference, on reassembly, make sure this is how the shift lever looks, otherwise it won't work.. =)

Final note, the easiest way of locking the kick down full open is to cut the cable(with valve body and transmission fully together) and then lock it with a cable lock or other vising device, unless you want to build a wedge to put in when the valve body is out, all a matter of preference.

Not too descriptive, but I hope this at least will give you all an idea of where to start with when upgrading a a340. Also, I don't see much need of a upgraded valve body, from what Ive researched, they are rarely more then what you can do you're self here, or slightly enlarged passages, not worth the money to me.
So what do you guys think?
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Unread 02-27-2008, 08:36 PM   #3
SilverXJ
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Quote:
The issue that has arrisen is a car shifting into reverse when it should go into overdrive, and it appears to be a pressure bleedoff issue, once we have that exact cause located, I will post it, and ways to avoid it.
Yeah.. that sounds really bad. I'll think I will skip this mod.
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Unread 02-27-2008, 10:55 PM   #4
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Nice work. That is a process thou, what was ur build time
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Unread 02-27-2008, 11:08 PM   #5
alexrule123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverXJ View Post
Yeah.. that sounds really bad. I'll think I will skip this mod.
no they fixed it, they had some of the springs in the wrong places

Here is the quote

Quote:
Shimming the accumulators makes shift time shorter, locking the detent open increases line pressure, which makes the "harder" shift. You will feel more from the shimmed accumulators, but they work best togather.

And for the problem transmission, that would shift into Reverse when going into O/D was caused by a C-0 accumulator spring installed in the wrong side. We'll get more information on it later, when I have some more time to get pictures and such..
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Last edited by alexrule123; 02-28-2008 at 11:55 AM..
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Unread 02-28-2008, 11:56 AM   #6
alexrule123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlaudiojeep View Post
Nice work. That is a process thou, what was ur build time
I haven't done it yet, but I am really thinking about it
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Unread 02-28-2008, 02:49 PM   #7
seanyb505
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You guys and your automatics...
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Unread 02-28-2008, 10:50 PM   #8
jlaudiojeep
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i would shoot myself if i had a manual dd, thats what my bimmer is for...lol
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Unread 02-28-2008, 11:12 PM   #9
d768
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wait so this is for rebuilding and making it shift faster? isnt it better to control it yourself? with the thing from the other thread?
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Unread 02-29-2008, 06:16 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d768
isnt it better to control it yourself? with the thing from the other thread?
no........
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Unread 02-29-2008, 10:10 AM   #11
alexrule123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d768 View Post
wait so this is for rebuilding and making it shift faster? isnt it better to control it yourself? with the thing from the other thread?
just to shift faster
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Unread 03-01-2008, 02:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d768 View Post
wait so this is for rebuilding and making it shift faster? isnt it better to control it yourself? with the thing from the other thread?
other thread?

what the supra guy is doing is making is so when you shift from 1-2 and 2-3 the pause (you know when you stop accelerating for that breif moment) when you shift (an auto)is much shorter. That would be unpleasent for most people that (and the shorter clutch pack life) is why the factory didn't make the trans do that
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Unread 03-03-2008, 11:22 AM   #13
GrayBomb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingofthehill View Post
other thread?

what the supra guy is doing is making is so when you shift from 1-2 and 2-3 the pause (you know when you stop accelerating for that breif moment) when you shift (an auto)is much shorter. That would be unpleasent for most people that (and the shorter clutch pack life) is why the factory didn't make the trans do that
Quicker shifts, up to a point, means less clutch slipping and longer clutch pack life. It is up to a certain point though. I will do this mod with small shims once I get my new trans and up the pressure.
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Unread 03-25-2008, 06:04 PM   #14
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yes, the clutches will last longer, i just had the TV cable opened all the way on my jeep, it was pretty firm, but makes no difference at WOT, because thats how it was normally at WOT
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Unread 03-26-2008, 01:36 AM   #15
kingofthehill
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^^I did not know that
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