It's not a grease that should be used in bearings or other extreme high heat situations. Being a marine grease, it is designed for exposure to all sorts of water (even high pressure saltwater spray) and corrosive salt solutions--nice in Wisconsin winters. It stays stable, adherent, and waterproof in extremely COLD temps. The slip yoke is does not get hot but does get very cold in winters and is exposed to all sorts of nasty elements even despite the boot which is why this grease is such a great tool for that job. Drum brakes can heat up, but the grease seems to hold-up fine in the drums (they likely never get hot enough to damage the grease), and it's metal adherence and resilience in the face of all sorts of nast is why I use it there as well.
By the way: dabbing a little on the threads of the parking brake adjuster is also a good idea.
I've recently begun researching the possibility of using it in steering joints. Still not sure if it's a good idea or worthwhile or not.
Anyone know if dccontrol is still making fan controllers? Love their work but customer service and website are abysmal. I don't want to submit an order on paypal for something that may take more than paypal's 30 complaint window to arrive from someone who doesn't communicate much if they're not actually in the business anymore.
I emailed them, but the lack of reply tells me nothing as they're notorious for having little to no communication with customers. I wish I could spite them for their terrible service, but the product is just too damned perfect.
In other news, my 225 SAT's will be going onto my mom's Tracker and I'll be riding on these 215 Wildcats until winter when I'll swap them for 235 Firestone Winterforces. I'd have liked Nokian Hakkas, but they're too hard to get for a sane price in the states. The bang for buck on the Firestones is just too good. Small chance of some Michelin Xi2's, General Altimax Arctics, or a VERY slim chance of Blizzaks. Next spring I'll buy some 3-season tires for my other 5-set of wheels--probably General Grabber HTS.
I don't live near snow (yet) so I've got a question, why not an all season tire?
Having driven in the snow with all-season tires I can say this:
All-season tires are tires that perform mediocre in all-seasons. They aren't really good at any one thing. In fact, I'm convinced that all-season tire designers believe there are only 3 seasons... summer, spring, and fall. Having all-terrains is a huge improvement over all-seasons in the snow, and winter tires such as the winterforce like mschi mentioned stick to the road like glue.
It's really not even about snow, my interweb friend. Anytime temps are at 45 deg F or below, a winter tire is the better, safer choice.
Nothing compares to a true winter tire in winter conditions. "All season" is a misleading name. M+S rating is a complete farce. The mountain/snowflake symbol is even quite flawed and misleads consumers. I know of very few tires that I'd truly trust to handle all 4 seasons well: Nokian WRG3 (or other WR's), Duratracs, and maybe Hercules AT2 off the top of my head.
Having 2 sets of tires costs nothing extra in the long run other than he price I a cheap set of wheels to mount the winters on. You'll still be spending the same $ per mile on rubber as before since one set gets 0 miles while the other is in service, and swapping them can be done in fall/spring when you should be rotating tires during an oil change anyway.
Storage can be an issue for a small amount of people, and some people drive in 4 seasons but put so few miles on that tires will rot before their tread gets used up. If a tire has to be tossed due to rot when there's still treadlife left, that's wasted money IMO. In these cases, I'd advocate for a single set of Nokian WR or GY Duratracs or [whatever I'm not remembering right now].
Funny. I looked at that Jeep online a few weeks ago when the dealer had it listed as being a five speed. I was all set to drive down and check it out when I looked at the pictures one more time and realized it was an automatic. Nice to see it ended up in Racine.
I have cracks in my B-pillar. This has me thinking about frame stiffeners. Any advice? I can't weld, so I'll need to find someone to do the welding for me--I have a friend who somewhat recently finished schooling to be a welder, so maybe I'll enlist his help since I don't think he's found work yet anyway.
This thing was never wheeled yet the pillar is cracked this much? Should I stop driving it until this is fixed?
I have a crack in my B-pillar developing near the vent. This has me thinking about frame stiffeners. Any advice? I can't weld, so I'll need to find someone to do the welding for me--I have a friend who somewhat recently finished schooling to be a welder, so maybe I'll enlist his help since I don't think he's found work yet anyway.
HD offroad is the popular choice along with ruff stuff I believe
“The mountains are calling and I must go.” ― John Muir
I've already decided to go with HD Offroad. While my friend can weld, I'm not exactly sure how to prep the frame rails--all the paint and factory undercoat still there and me without any kind of power tools beyond an ancient drill. I'm also wondering just how worried I should be about these cracks. Should I just get it to a shop asap to have all this dealt with?
Good question... And I've never seen that. Is it getting worse?
I haven't had it long enough to know.
I've heard of it happening on XJ's but usually only from being wheeled. 2-doors are more vulnerable due to their weaker structure (1 less pillar) and a heavier door slamming the striker. Here is a pic from http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/fix...2-door-150327/ that I found during some research. Identical cracking.