It would be nice but I doubt it will get much better than that. Ron
Had my 96 up to 18.5 mpg in 50/50 mixed driving and 22 mpg highway, so you can stop doubting. I wasn't even close to finished with my 96 yet either. The biggest gains were yet to be made (i.e. aeromodding, switch to 235 highway tires from 225 AT's, and more).
Here's a VERY quick example of one of the possibilities for the Monstaliner paint job. I have a couple other ideas, but they'd require much more time to convey properly, so this is all you guys get for now.
Yeah, the first combo was my choice as well, but I figured I'd include the next darkest shade in case others disagreed with me. Hmm, do I allow that gray to continue around the tailgate or stop it at the taillights (all blue on the tailgate; maybe paint the plastic piece above the lis plate gray)?
Definitely go around.
“The mountains are calling and I must go.” ― John Muir
Throttle body cleaned, Seafoamed the intake and fuel tank today. Had my fingers crossed that the neighbors wouldn't call the fire department--so much smoke. Throttle body and what I could see of the intake manifold was very dirty; previous owners were definitely "normal" people who never did this kind of stuff.
Hopefully I'll get brakes swapped from the 96 (had just put Black Magic pads with Centric rotors and Bendix shoes/drums on it) and the oil filter adapter O-ring changed this weekend.
Man I am so jealous of that thing, are those the brands you recommend for the breaks? I'm starting I get some creeks from the back so I'm thinking y drums need work
I love the Black Magic/Centric kit, and Black Magic is a member vendor here as well. Highly recommend them for the front. I went with Bendix due to reputation more than anything else. Rear drums: hard to tell if something is much better than another really.
With Amazon Prime, it cost me $100 and I had them two days later. New wheel cylinders and spring kit cost me $29 at NAPA. If you need parking brake hardware, that's sold separately. I'd have gotten that if I had remembered it was separate, but I forgot and am reusing the old stuff (it seems to be relatively new anyway).
You WILL need a 3/8" brake line wrench (aka flare nut wrench) and Kroil/Liquid Wrench/PB Blaster if you want to change your wheel cylinders. The bolts that hold the cylinder in place rust, and when I did this on my 96, one actually broke (the cylinders don't come with new bolts, so take care or have new ones on hand; not sure of their thread/length offhand, but they're 10 mm head). The nut on the brake line also likes to twist the line if you're not careful. I had to gently hold the line with a vice grip (take care not to crush the line) in order to break the nut free of the line.
The wrench is pretty much necessary. If you want to try a plain crescent wrench, just remember that I warned you that it can very easily strip the nut. They're not expensive; use the right tool for the job.
Tip: if you change your drums' shoes, when you remove them, you'll see areas on the backing plate where the shoes rest and rub (you'll know these areas by their smoothness and lack of rust compared to the rest of the plate. Before installing your new shoes, dab just a thin layer of grease on those areas--your shoes will move more freely and will be less likely to *CLUNK* when braking. I use Evinrude Johnson Triple-Guard Grease. It's sold online and in most boating stores. This is also an FANTASTIC grease to use on your slip yoke by the way and is the primary reason I have some in my garage.