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Unread 05-28-2013, 08:02 PM   #49501
Motorcharge
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
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We got a 92 YJ with a 4.0 traded in at work today. Used car manager barely wants anything for it. Half tempted to get it and get rid of the XJ...

I'd just get it and keep it too, but I can't afford a fourth vehicle, let alone another Jeep/project lol

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Unread 05-28-2013, 08:12 PM   #49502
zetsubou-jeep
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1978 CJ7 
 
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A local guy is selling a rear d60 from a j10 does anybody know how much of a pain it would be to put into a XJ
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Unread 05-28-2013, 08:17 PM   #49503
Luke95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zetsubou-jeep
A local guy is selling a rear d60 from a j10 does anybody know how much of a pain it would be to put into a XJ
Can you weld?

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Unread 05-28-2013, 08:22 PM   #49504
aircruiser
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Easy if you have fab experience but do research first. Rear D60s are boat anchors unless your willing to put in effort. 35 spline conversion for sure and you may need to widen the tubes for that depending on what kind of D60
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Unread 05-28-2013, 08:30 PM   #49505
Luke95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aircruiser
Easy if you have fab experience but do research first. Rear D60s are boat anchors unless your willing to put in effort. 35 spline conversion for sure and you may need to widen the tubes for that depending on what kind of D60
No wear near as bad as a 14 bolt or sterling.
But this is extremely true. And what are you doing for a front?

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Unread 05-28-2013, 08:33 PM   #49506
Motorcharge
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At a minimum to run 60s (regardless of what they come out of) you're looking at cutting/rewelding new mounts, new wheels and tires and new brakes.

You're still looking at having to shorten it or pickup a full width front. Plus you need to think about how much stress it's putting on the motor and driveline. You're creating more heat for the cooling system, need to upgrade steering, probably your master cylinder, ect.

It's a big jump up to full widths and odds are if you're asking how much work needs to go into it you're getting in way over your head.
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Unread 05-28-2013, 08:37 PM   #49507
zetsubou-jeep
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My brother welds but I don't I am also not sure what I would run up front I was more tempted by the price he has on it $100 he swapped in a d70
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Unread 05-28-2013, 08:39 PM   #49508
Motorcharge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zetsubou-jeep View Post
My brother welds but I don't I am also not sure what I would run up front I was more tempted by the price he has on it $100 he swapped in a d70
If it's in decent shape I'd jump all over that to resell it.
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Unread 05-28-2013, 08:40 PM   #49509
zetsubou-jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorcharge View Post
At a minimum to run 60s (regardless of what they come out of) you're looking at cutting/rewelding new mounts, new wheels and tires and new brakes.

You're still looking at having to shorten it or pickup a full width front. Plus you need to think about how much stress it's putting on the motor and driveline. You're creating more heat for the cooling system, need to upgrade steering, probably your master cylinder, ect.

It's a big jump up to full widths and odds are if you're asking how much work needs to go into it you're getting in way over your head.
I agree lol I need new tires an wheels anyway my 5 month old 31s got stolen
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Unread 05-28-2013, 08:41 PM   #49510
pdcomm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepComanche89 View Post
Ordered replacement keys for my toolbox in the MJ. 10 bucks, 2 keys, free shipping cant beat it. Didnt do anything to the truck, but i did work on the bike. My key came in the mail for that, so i could lift the seat up and start cleaning it up. I took the tank out and drained it, same with the twostroke oil tank, took out the batt, cleaned everything up etc. only problem is i have some surface rust on the inside of the tank. Ive seen worse, but i would say i have to do something about it. I took the petcock off the tank and when i took it apart there was rust in the filter. Heres some pics what do u guys think.

Attachment 631941



Attachment 631942
My Simplex had a bit of rust forming in the gas tank . Not too bad considering the bike is 55 years old . I'd read that different acids worked for removing rust .

I used muriatic acid to clean my XT350 tank with decent results . That tank did flash rust and I retreated it and then neutralized the acid ASAP . It still formed a small amount of flash rust . I'm running it with an in line paper fuel filter and haven't had any problems .

The Simplex tank is a bit more rare and harder to find . I was reluctant to use muriatic acid in it for those reasons . Through research , I read about oxalic acid , sold as wood bleach . Oxalic acid is a lot safer to work with , but still requires due caution ( READ THE LABEL ) . It's not nearly as toxic as muriatic acid . It does NOT harm painted surfaces . It just eats rust and leaves a protective coating on the steel after being thoroughly rinsed with water .

I used a diluted mixture from what is suggested , which is 12 ounces to 1 gallon of water . I used 12 ounces to 2 gallons of water . Being as the solution was weaker , I left the mixture in the tank twice as long and the results are shown below .

This is what I used :



Here's the rusted tank :



And, here's the tank after being filled with oxalic acid for a couple of days :



This stuff really does work great .
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Unread 05-28-2013, 08:44 PM   #49511
aircruiser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zetsubou-jeep View Post
My brother welds but I don't I am also not sure what I would run up front I was more tempted by the price he has on it $100 he swapped in a d70
You can pick up 14 bolts all day long for $100 at JY
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Unread 05-28-2013, 09:01 PM   #49512
zetsubou-jeep
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That's true and I need to go there to get a steering column anyway maybe I'll luck out and find an xj 44
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Unread 05-29-2013, 05:19 AM   #49513
JeepComanche89
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1989 MJ Comanche 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdcomm

My Simplex had a bit of rust forming in the gas tank . Not too bad considering the bike is 55 years old . I'd read that different acids worked for removing rust .

I used muriatic acid to clean my XT350 tank with decent results . That tank did flash rust and I retreated it and then neutralized the acid ASAP . It still formed a small amount of flash rust . I'm running it with an in line paper fuel filter and haven't had any problems .

The Simplex tank is a bit more rare and harder to find . I was reluctant to use muriatic acid in it for those reasons . Through research , I read about oxalic acid , sold as wood bleach . Oxalic acid is a lot safer to work with , but still requires due caution ( READ THE LABEL ) . It's not nearly as toxic as muriatic acid . It does NOT harm painted surfaces . It just eats rust and leaves a protective coating on the steel after being thoroughly rinsed with water .

I used a diluted mixture from what is suggested , which is 12 ounces to 1 gallon of water . I used 12 ounces to 2 gallons of water . Being as the solution was weaker , I left the mixture in the tank twice as long and the results are shown below .

This is what I used :

Here's the rusted tank :

And, here's the tank after being filled with oxalic acid for a couple of days :

This stuff really does work great .
Thanks that helps alot. I was looking into the acid/cream kits like you can buy for cars. The only thing i was worried about harming the paint, and of course the tank inside. Did you seal your tank with anything after you used the stuff? I kinda feel like you would have to in order to stop it from rusting further. I guy i know said his friend could get me a plastic tank for 100 bucks. I really didnt want to do this because the bike only has 230 on it and in mint condition. He also said it cost 200-300 to cream the tank. That seemed outrageous to me considering you can buy a kit for like 35 dollars from eastwood.
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Unread 05-29-2013, 07:52 AM   #49514
chriskeenan
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Today i start pulling the engine out of mine. Getting ready for the rebuild.
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Unread 05-29-2013, 07:56 AM   #49515
ahar9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriskeenan
Today i start pulling the engine out of mine. Getting ready for the rebuild.
Why you rebuilding?

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