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Unread 04-27-2012, 08:46 PM   #16
gunsworth
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Also there were chunks of aluminum visible in the intake on our blown motor, so I am not gonna waste any time with that, it is going bye bye

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Unread 04-27-2012, 10:59 PM   #17
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i put a 1995 motor in my 2000 and didnt swap anything. bolted right in. made two little brackets to hold the coil pack on.
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Unread 04-28-2012, 02:10 PM   #18
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I like the bigger intakes on these and not easy to find a low mileage engine this old, let alone any older.

Right now I am about to give up on the top passenger belhousing bolt. heard they were hard to get, but jesus, hard doesnt even begin to describe
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Unread 04-28-2012, 04:26 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by gunsworth View Post
Right now I am about to give up on the top passenger belhousing bolt. heard they were hard to get, but jesus, hard doesnt even begin to describe
I had to use an impact gun with only 1 extension with the e-torx bit to get mine off.
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Unread 04-29-2012, 09:55 PM   #20
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I'm going to not RTFT and just comment on the OP here.

Three main reasons of engine failure;

1. Overheating

2. Lack of lubrication

3. Ingesting dirt

If there is no damage to the block, and you know what you're doing, a rebuild is in order here.

Might i suggest before commenting on this you go and look up the serious issues that the later run of 4.0s have with pistons falling apart because of crappy cam sensors and detonation applied to pistons that were not skirted far enough.

No amount of oil or cooling will help that... its the 4.0 beating itself to death till eventually the guy trying desperately to fix it with MMO ends up with a connecting rod busting though the cylinder wall.

So you go with an XJ that has the coil pack.. and you take a chance. Much different from the older ones that were built much closer to original spec.
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Unread 04-30-2012, 07:25 AM   #21
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So you go with an XJ that has the coil pack.. and you take a chance. Much different from the older ones that were built much closer to original spec.
got 190k out of the last one, this one looks to have been rebuilt within the last 10k, we should get a good amount of life from this engine
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Unread 04-30-2012, 07:29 AM   #22
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If it was rebuilt, there is a good chance it will go a while. I would suggest keeping up on making sure the cam sensor is aligned correctly, you can do it with a toothpick. And if you replace it (I would and have to on our 01 with the same issue) get a mopar one.
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Unread 04-30-2012, 08:21 AM   #23
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If it was rebuilt, there is a good chance it will go a while. I would suggest keeping up on making sure the cam sensor is aligned correctly, you can do it with a toothpick. And if you replace it (I would and have to on our 01 with the same issue) get a mopar one.
ya, the jeep it came from was an 01 with only had 80k, guy only had it for a couple months before he totaled it and had no idea on the engines history. after pulling the valve cover and oil pan we found everything spotless, no buildup anywhere whatsoever. had a mechanic look it over, he said we stole it and the rebuild was probably within the last 10k

Thanks for the heads up on the cam sensor, I dont really want to mess with that until I get the motor in and running though, so Ill add that to the to do list. last thing I want is to be unable to get it running because of something i messed up.

just want to get this thing done so I can fix my YJ, these stupid jeeps are killing me
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Unread 04-30-2012, 08:30 AM   #24
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Progress... my cousin decided to make the pan and cover pretty for my gf lol.

just gotta put a few new parts on the new engine and drop it in, sounds so easy
pan.jpg   puklled.jpg  
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Unread 04-30-2012, 10:43 AM   #25
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My 00 engine crapped out at 131,000. I hit Craigslist and grabbed an engine/AW4/NP242 from a 99 XJ with all the accessories still on it for $500. 165,000 on it but the timing chain was tight and no cam wear at the oil pump DS. I've had nearly 10,000 trouble-free miles out of it now.

Sold the stuff I didn't need. Stashed the trans. All said and done, I have about $100 into the swap.
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Unread 04-30-2012, 04:47 PM   #26
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My 00 engine crapped out at 131,000. I hit Craigslist and grabbed an engine/AW4/NP242 from a 99 XJ with all the accessories still on it for $500. 165,000 on it but the timing chain was tight and no cam wear at the oil pump DS. I've had nearly 10,000 trouble-free miles out of it now.

Sold the stuff I didn't need. Stashed the trans. All said and done, I have about $100 into the swap.
thats my plan with this, with selling the old motor, head, intake and accessories i wont have much at all into it, but will have a freshly rebuilt motor

i dont care how well an engine was cared for once they get past 150k they have a lot of wear and never have the power of younger ones. no way in hell i was gonna gamble with a higher mileage engine to save a few bucks up front and wind up in the same boat a year from now
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Unread 04-30-2012, 07:16 PM   #27
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ya, the jeep it came from was an 01 with only had 80k, guy only had it for a couple months before he totaled it and had no idea on the engines history. after pulling the valve cover and oil pan we found everything spotless, no buildup anywhere whatsoever. had a mechanic look it over, he said we stole it and the rebuild was probably within the last 10k

Thanks for the heads up on the cam sensor, I dont really want to mess with that until I get the motor in and running though, so Ill add that to the to do list. last thing I want is to be unable to get it running because of something i messed up.

just want to get this thing done so I can fix my YJ, these stupid jeeps are killing me

Sounds good

The issue with these is that the cam sensor (where the distributor used to be) gets out of spec, and allows for per-detonation. Since our engines are rumbly to begin with, and run on crap watered gas to boot, the computer cant much do anything about it, and we do'nt much feel it.

That per-detonation rocks the piston, cracks it, and eventually takes a rod and tries to escape to parts unknown.

the 4.0, trying to live up to its ancestral rock solid heritage.. keeps going, sounding like hell, destroying the cylinder. if you get the knock again... you should be able to solve it if your bore looks good and mics well. you would also have to check the bearing tolerances and the camshaft. At least thats what i have been reading. Unfortunately, same issue, but no garage or engine lift... or money to just farm out the fix.
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Unread 04-30-2012, 07:36 PM   #28
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I hear you, wish i had known more about these later engines, I am familiar with a few from the 90s and they always seemed loud and knocked so I ignored it. MY dads 98 TJ has over 200K and has plowed over 40 drives each snow storm since new, hasnt really done anything aside from oil and some accessories and still going strong. it has had a similar knock to what we had since it had like 75K, well sounded similar at least.

Bummer about no garage or lift, actually doing mine in the driveway since the weather has been so nice, borrowed the lift from my brother. might want to ask around some local forums...

I am not afraid to give this era engine another shot, now that I know all of its weaknesses and signs
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Unread 05-02-2012, 04:23 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunsworth
ya, the jeep it came from was an 01 with only had 80k, guy only had it for a couple months before he totaled it and had no idea on the engines history. after pulling the valve cover and oil pan we found everything spotless, no buildup anywhere whatsoever. had a mechanic look it over, he said we stole it and the rebuild was probably within the last 10k
Sounds like a steal to me too too! It's your girlfriends Jeep? I've been trying to get my girlfriend to sell her supercharged Regal and get a ZJ or WK for a while now but even the GC's are "too boxy" I always reply that aerodynamics are overrated.


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Originally Posted by Azzy View Post
Might i suggest before commenting on this you go and look up the serious issues that the later run of 4.0s have with pistons falling apart because of crappy cam sensors and detonation applied to pistons that were not skirted far enough.

No amount of oil or cooling will help that... its the 4.0 beating itself to death till eventually the guy trying desperately to fix it with MMO ends up with a connecting rod busting though the cylinder wall.

So you go with an XJ that has the coil pack.. and you take a chance. Much different from the older ones that were built much closer to original spec.
I answered the OP's post with a pretty generic response about engines, but that doesn't make it an inaccurate statement.

A piston blowing itself to pieces can be caused by a list of things, but as long as the cylinder walls don't have any serious damage, he could rebuild. Yes, a new engine is easier. Maybe I'm just tired of my disposable generation being so wasteful.

So the cam sensor destroys the timing and the pistons aren't skirted enough?
-Set the time with a new Mopar cam sensor (agreed on that). Inspect the timing chain and sprockets that run it.
As for the block itself - It could be fixed. So the pistons aren't skirted enough from the factory? A dial-bore gauge is your friend here. Check for damage, and since you have it stripped to block already, it's easy to get it machined to whatever bore you need, probably have to get the crank polished at a minimum. A new set of hypereuretic pistons - not from Mopar and your good to go (on the lower half at any rate).

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Unread 05-02-2012, 08:57 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azzy

Might i suggest before commenting on this you go and look up the serious issues that the later run of 4.0s have with pistons falling apart because of crappy cam sensors and detonation applied to pistons that were not skirted far enough.

So you go with an XJ that has the coil pack.. and you take a chance. Much different from the older ones that were built much closer to original spec.
Not to beat this topic to death but I'm just curious...

The 4.0 is known for piston slap, so in theory wouldn't longer skirts put more pressure on the ends of the skirts with the side to side movement of the piston slap? Also, don't the previous 4.0s from 1998 and older have the same piston dimensions?

I had an issue with the cam sensor on mine. It made a loud ticking sound so I had it replaced with a mopar one a year ago. Your theory about the cam sensor/coil pack 4.0s makes sense, but it doesn't really explain the issue. As I stated in the other thread, I've seen a 96, two 98s, a 99 and a 2001 with piston skirt problems. The 99 was in an XJ so it didn't have the coil pack ignition. One 98 was in a ZJ and the other was an XJ. The 96 was also a ZJ, and the 2001 was in a WJ. The coil pack theory makes sense but it doesn't really explain the piston problems in the older engines without the coil pack. If you looked at just the threads I have read alone it would seem that there are almost less problems with the coil pack ignition. I also haven't seen the problem on any 2002 or newer 4.0s which supposedly have the same pistons and ignition. Again, not being an ***, just saying that there doesn't seem to be enough data to make a statement like that just yet.

Also, if detonation is the true cause, how would you go about preventing it?
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