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Old 07-29-2010, 05:25 AM   #1
abnormal
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What axles should I go with?

I am thinking of pulling the trigger on a set of axles for my xj but I want to get some ideas from some of you. Keep in mind Im not spending $10k on a set of axles. I need to regear at the very least and I figure if Im going to do it I might as well do it all.

Here is what I am thinking, g2's dana 44's front and rear with 5.13 gears and a arb in the front and the detroit in the rear. Add disc brakes to the rear along with a few other odds and ends and it comes to about $5500.

Lets hear it, what do you think I should do?

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Old 07-29-2010, 11:08 AM   #2
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you could spend a lot less on that same set up without the name brand. you could set yourself up with dana 60s with ARBs and 5.13s for less than that....IMO if you are loking to save money, there is no reason to spend that kind of money. THe only time i would spend money like that on axles if i was building a buggy or something, which would include some sort of bad *** 9 inch like a ballistic or spider9.
Thats just my opinion. The good thing about that, however, is you know that you will be getting a good (and set up properly) axle. It also depends on what size tires you want to run. If you want to run 37s, go with dana 60s. If you want to run 35s, run a 60 rear (or even a little smaller 8.8) and a 44 front.
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Old 07-29-2010, 11:27 AM   #3
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HP44/9", I was able to get my HP44 for about $150, going to spend another $80 for a 9" from the JY. BTF truss the front with some brackets from Ballistic, and UBE kit from TNT for the 9". Keep in mind a 9" may be a pricey build compared to a 8.8, 60, 14b, by the time you get 35 spline shafts, nodular 3rd, etc., but it's going to be Way lighter weight than either of the one ton axles, and if you shave it, more ground clearance than a D35. Best of all it is extremely easy to work on, change configurations, and can be built in stages.
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Old 07-29-2010, 11:56 AM   #4
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Thanks for the input guys. Im not going any bigger than 35's on the xj. I thought about the 9" and 60 rears but once you build it like the g2 44's you are over the cost of the 44's. Im kinda going for bolt in axles right now. It would be different if I knew how to set gears but I havent learned yet. I have 2 d30's and 2 8.25's and plan on selling 3 and keep one to learn on. When I get another tj I plan to build axles for it.
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:52 PM   #5
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Not going over 35's? Stick with stock axles and build them up.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:04 PM   #6
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If you know how to fit 5.13's in a 8.25 come on over and show me.
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Old 07-31-2010, 06:06 AM   #7
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After trying to decide what axles to get I went with the 44's. Cost of the axles and the fact that I dont have to do any driveshaft mods or pay to have them put together is what sold me. Also the fact that 35's are too small for 60's. When I called 4wd to ask some questions the guy said he could give me a deal on them. I figured he was going to give me 1-2 hundred off but it ended up being $650 off the already discounted price i was getting and I dont have to pay shipping because I have a 4wheelparts 18 miles from me and they are shipping them there. I cant wait to get rid of the 3.55's and drive it with 5.13!
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Old 07-31-2010, 07:49 AM   #8
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Old 07-31-2010, 10:41 AM   #9
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I was just wondering why you needed the 5.13's with 35's? It would have been alot cheaper to run 4.88's in the stock axles, with chromoly shafts, then if you still needed to go lower you could have added a teralow 4:1 kit to a 231 transfercase. That would have gotten you a much lower low range and better highway rpm's...That said I'm envious of anyone who can convince their wife they $5500 axles lol
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Old 07-31-2010, 12:07 PM   #10
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I agree that 4:88's should have been plenty of gearing for 35's and the AW4. But it should be fun to drive around town with the 5:13's.
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Old 07-31-2010, 10:49 PM   #11
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Used set of Rubicon JK 44's already geared from the likes of JKOwners.com - The community for Jeep JK Owners classifieds section. I have seen some killer deals on there.... I know my JK axles are holding up great with a set of chromo shafts and CTM u joints I scored a good ($600 shipped) deal on.

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Old 08-01-2010, 05:12 PM   #12
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I was just wondering why you needed the 5.13's with 35's? It would have been alot cheaper to run 4.88's in the stock axles, with chromoly shafts, then if you still needed to go lower you could have added a teralow 4:1 kit to a 231 transfercase. That would have gotten you a much lower low range and better highway rpm's...That said I'm envious of anyone who can convince their wife they $5500 axles lol
After adding the cost in parts to get the stock axles close to what the g2 axles have it was only about a $1500 difference and that doesnt include labor to install all the parts or the other stuff the axles come with. Like the bushings for the front uppers and the axle tube seals to name a few. I could care less about highway rpms because I dont drive it on the highway. When I wheel local I drive it to the trails, if I go wheeling somewhere far away I tow it.
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Old 08-09-2010, 11:42 PM   #13
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I was wishin I had 5.13's for my 35's...
See, Im not the only one!
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Old 08-09-2010, 11:52 PM   #14
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The thing I don't like about the G2's IIRC, was the fact they keep the Dana 30 knuckles and ball joints (correct me if I'm wrong).

Any axle gets fairly expensive to build when you start adding all the extras. And there's nothing wrong with spending the money if you have it.
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Old 08-10-2010, 12:14 AM   #15
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The thing I don't like about the G2's IIRC, was the fact they keep the Dana 30 knuckles and ball joints (correct me if I'm wrong).

Any axle gets fairly expensive to build when you start adding all the extras. And there's nothing wrong with spending the money if you have it.
From what I remember most of the "bolt in" D44 front axles still use stock D30 outers. So you gain a slightly bigger R&P with no real other upgrades.



And add me to the wishing he had gone with 5.13s on 35 group.
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