Tried Apple Cider Vinegar for Rust today. Wow. - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 13 Old 12-27-2015, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
jordan96xj
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Tried Apple Cider Vinegar for Rust today. Wow.

So I've been doing some clean up around the bottom of doors, etc, to head off any rust issues. This typically involves wire brushing out any existing rust, sanding any high spots, removing any surface rust remaining, and then treating, painting, etc.

I had been seeing a lot youtube videos about how effective apple cider vinegar is on fairly bad surface rust. So a few nights ago I ordered some multipurpose sprayers off amazon (cheap), then today at the grocery store I picked up a small bottle of plain ol' apple cider vinegar.

I had been using naval jelly, etc. and then cleaning prior to treatment and painting.

Tonight I sprayed the area liberally with the vinegar (after having already cleaned it with super clean). And darned if the rust did not literally drip off in a matter of minutes. It was super cheap and super effective.

If you are doing small amounts of touch ups under doors, etc. It is well worth trying for yourself. The spray bottle makes it easier, but is not absolutely necessary.

Perhaps I'm the last person in the world to realize this. But I hope it helps someone who is doing the same type of work.

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post #2 of 13 Old 12-29-2015, 04:05 AM
Ralph77
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Keep it in mind. I am always cleaning up the little rust I have underneath my '00. I used Coca Cola on battery terminals. Cleaned them up OK. Been wire brushing things. Using naval jelly too. Applying POR 15 in various places. Happy with it so far. Starter kit is cool because it gives you everything you need for the small projects. POR 15, according to people, does not store well so when you open it up it is kinda a use it all thing or plan on throwing it out. I would prep what I wanted to do properly but when I was done would just take what was left and start slapping it around underneath. Did the heat shield on my gas tank without prepping. Gotta say holding up really good. Been using some rust inhibitor, both spray and paint on, see how that holds up. Saw your location. If they use that calcium crap or whatever that stuff is that eats everything underneath you might want to check out Fluid Film for protection. Was going to do the used motor oil/diesel fuel trick but then we go some of the Fluid Film in the auto parts store I work at. My boss bought the Fluid Film gun kit and has a air compressor good enough to run it. The the cool thing about the Fluid Film gun kit is that it come with this hose attachment. Sprays in a 360 degree pattern and you can stick it in your Uni-Body to apply the Fluid Film in there. Have a '96 where a small section of the Uni-Body rotted made this very appealing to me. Just watch out where the Diff Breather is for the rear diff inside the Uni-Body. Hose going into the Drivers side rear. Thinking you do not want to gunk that up so it can't breath. Thinking of moving mine just so I can go to town in that small section too. We used it for the first time in the fall of '14. Went to town underneath. Used about a 1/2 gallon on my Jeep. One of those situations where less is not more. He did his fathers Dodge diesel dual wheel and his diesel Dodge too. Stuff will smell for awhile and takes a bit to burn the exhaust and whatnot. Should see the smoke coming off the Jeep when starting it after the application. Every little bit of crap will stick to it. I would run the Jeep through the $5 automatic wash bay once a month or so to get all the salt and whatnot off the body but not do the undercarriage. It will eventually wash off if you do. Come spring used the self service wash bay and cleaned up the undercarriage. Very happy with it. Did it again this year and plan on doing it yearly. Added protection is Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. Mostly a one time thing. Might not be a bad idea to use it every few years though. Again watch out for the rear diff breather. One last tip if using either. Put some tape around the hose near the nozzle. This way when you are pulling it out of the Uni-Body you will know where the end of the hose is. Otherwise with your finger on the trigger you could be spraying that stuff everywhere.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...nozzle-qt.html

http://www.kellsportproducts.com/undercoatingguns.html

http://www.fluid-film.com/
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post #3 of 13 Old 12-29-2015, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I just received my eastwood frame spray and fluid film cans last night! We got our first snow last night, so I wasn't able to apply anything yet.
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post #4 of 13 Old 12-29-2015, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jordan96xj View Post
Thanks! I just received my eastwood frame spray and fluid film cans last night! We got our first snow last night, so I wasn't able to apply anything yet.
I am lucky my friend has a compressor good enough to run the gun. You can go broke buying spray cans of Fluid Film. What is it about $9 a can. Pick up a gallon for about $40. I pay less. Work in an auto parts store. Did you get the attachment like what came with the Eastwood frame spray for the Fluid Film. Unless you clean the attachment from the frame spray immediately it will become useless when the paint dries. Thinking one used for Fluid Film will be OK without cleaning for as long as you have it. Thinking you can get it cheaper then this somewhere. Want to say it would cost me $7 in the store.

http://www.kellsportproducts.com/fluidfilmwand.html
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post #5 of 13 Old 12-29-2015, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Perhaps I'll keep one of the eastwood wands for the fluid film (and reuse it). Unless they have made them incompatible.
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post #6 of 13 Old 12-29-2015, 06:15 PM
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i once used apple cider vinegar and some other stuff to induce rust on an art project.

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post #7 of 13 Old 12-29-2015, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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I'm assuming your art project was not your COTM winning Cherokee. ;o)
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post #8 of 13 Old 12-29-2015, 06:33 PM
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it was a large cross made with horse shoes. looked neat.

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post #9 of 13 Old 12-30-2015, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by jordan96xj View Post
Perhaps I'll keep one of the eastwood wands for the fluid film (and reuse it). Unless they have made them incompatible.
I would have kept mine but had no idea how to clean it. Like I said figure once the internal frame coating dries in the wand it will be useless. Thinking one used strictly for Fluid Film though will be fine even if not cleaned. Fluid Film probably will never dry out even if exposed to air for a long time.
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post #10 of 13 Old 12-31-2015, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph77 View Post

I would have kept mine but had no idea how to clean it. Like I said figure once the internal frame coating dries in the wand it will be useless. Thinking one used strictly for Fluid Film though will be fine even if not cleaned. Fluid Film probably will never dry out even if exposed to air for a long time.
I just hooked mine up to brake cleaner, it cleaned out the internal frame coating in seconds.

BTW I used 6 cans on my Cherokee and I believe it to be a waste, if you have very little surface rust inside your frame it works OK but not on anything more then surface rust, probably would work well on a new frame.

Currently I'm using a combination of tannic acid, phosphoric acid and a few other things to convert rust.
First I sand away what I can then apply a very light solution of phosphoric acid and acetone to clean up the surface and leave a very light protective layer that will convert flash rust.
Then I apply the tannic acid solution which turns the rust into a stable phosphate which can be painted over.

Right now I'm in the process of opening up the uniframe, sanding down to as much bare metal as possible then converting any left over rust. After which I'll paint over it and apply crc heavy duty marine corrosion inhibitor (basically like fluid film, my dad just sells it so I get it cheap)

"****, I might **** around and bring the Jeep back No doors on it, flexin' with the seat back"
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post #11 of 13 Old 12-31-2015, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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I've inspected the frame rails from underneath through the access holes, and I see a lot of original surface (probably epoxy paint light greyish in color). So perhaps for me, the frame treatment is still a good idea. I was going to that first, and then fluid film it after.
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post #12 of 13 Old 12-31-2015, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Btw, I hope it didn't sound like I was saying the apple cider vinegar would remove heavy rust. It wont. But what it was great for was after taking a wire wheel or brush to a rust area and getting the big rust off, and prior to conversion/painting the vinegar was very effective at removing the light surrounding rust that remains, and it is REALLY fast, so it speeds up the job quite a bit.
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post #13 of 13 Old 12-31-2015, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthecatkiller View Post
I just hooked mine up to brake cleaner, it cleaned out the internal frame coating in seconds.

BTW I used 6 cans on my Cherokee and I believe it to be a waste, if you have very little surface rust inside your frame it works OK but not on anything more then surface rust, probably would work well on a new frame.

Currently I'm using a combination of tannic acid, phosphoric acid and a few other things to convert rust.
First I sand away what I can then apply a very light solution of phosphoric acid and acetone to clean up the surface and leave a very light protective layer that will convert flash rust.
Then I apply the tannic acid solution which turns the rust into a stable phosphate which can be painted over.

Right now I'm in the process of opening up the uniframe, sanding down to as much bare metal as possible then converting any left over rust. After which I'll paint over it and apply crc heavy duty marine corrosion inhibitor (basically like fluid film, my dad just sells it so I get it cheap)
Wish I had known about the brake cleaner for the internal frame coating wand. Did not really put much thought into cleaning it but even if I did probably would not have thought of that. Thanks for the tip. Next time. Figure if I own this Jeep for a very long time like I want I might use the internal frame coating again down the road.
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