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XHD Heavy-Duty Hood Latches for JK and TJ available at OcoSYE Kits from CCOR! 706-207-4140Stainless Steel Door Hinge Pins

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Unread 06-21-2013, 11:01 AM   #736
VegasGT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNFJ View Post
I can get the zj stuff at advance for cost. So it may be worth sticking with that.
That would work just fine too. I get the same deal with Advance so I use it when I can lol.

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Unread 06-21-2013, 11:19 AM   #737
DualPurposeXJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNFJ View Post
Serious question: What is the benefit of DS over not? Just that it won't bind up (and twist because of the bind)?

Clayton has an even better price too, hmmm. Good call.
"Single shear"/"double shear" refers to how a screw/bolt is loaded when the force is perpendicular to the axis of the fastener (when the fastener is loaded parallel to the axis, it is loaded "in tension.")

If a screw/bolt is loaded in shear, it's usually being used as a pivot, and there are other design considerations that should be applied as well (for instance, a threaded fastener should never be loaded in shear on the threads - it should be loaded in shear on the shank, or "grip.")

"Single shear" refers to the fact that there is a single plane of shear force through the fastener - an example would be a tie rod end stud. Even with the taper to locate the parts, there is a single shear plane - it exists between the tie rod end housing and the knuckle surface (typically considered to be even with the lower plane of the knuckle surface.)

"Double shear" would mean that there are two shear planes through the fastener, or that the total shear force is "split" into two locations on the fastener body. It's most common to see hitch pins loaded in double shear - a good example of this would be the cross pin for your trailer hitch. You know how you put the shank of the ball mount into the receiver, and then retain it with a large (~5/8") pin? That pin is loaded in "double shear" - one plane on either side of the ball mount shank.

Loading a fastener in "double shear" allows you to either not quite double the load on it, or to use a smaller fastener (since the load is split.) You'll still want to select for the shear load to be placed on the shank instead of the threads (where the available shear strength is rather lower!) While I like to leave a good safe margin for anything (without testing, shear strength can be estimated as being 75% of tensile strength, and tensile strengths for ISO and SAE fasteners are easy to find,) this still gives guidelines for not wandering too far into overkill.

Note that there is a fairly significant reduction in strength when loading a fastener in shear over the threads (due to reduced cross-sectional area.) I don't have it to hand, but I've been planning a "fastener primer" that will explain just how you can figure the reduction in strength due to threading. There is a similar reduction in strength when loading in tension - same reason. You use the minimum cross-sectional area at the thread root for strength calculations in tension, and you should be able to use the full nominal diameter in shear (unless you screwed up, and loaded it in shear across the threads...)
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Unread 06-21-2013, 11:29 AM   #738
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Very nice explanation, thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasGT View Post
That would work just fine too. I get the same deal with Advance so I use it when I can lol.
Gonna go to advance after work and check prices.
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Unread 06-22-2013, 01:20 PM   #739
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ZJ v8 tie rod, ends, adjustment sleeves and draglink are all currently sitting in my garage.

Clayton double sheer will be here tuesday.

What should I paint the steering with? I thought about using my unmixed monstaliner on it but meh.
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Unread 06-22-2013, 01:27 PM   #740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNFJ
ZJ v8 tie rod, ends, adjustment sleeves and draglink are all currently sitting in my garage.

Clayton double sheer will be here tuesday.

What should I paint the steering with? I thought about using my unmixed monstaliner on it but meh.
Chassis saver if your not going for a color
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Unread 06-22-2013, 01:29 PM   #741
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Why paint it..?

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I'm pretty sure I know what I'm talking about. I think...
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Unread 06-22-2013, 01:43 PM   #742
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Why paint it..?

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Unread 06-22-2013, 01:46 PM   #743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNFJ View Post
ZJ v8 tie rod, ends, adjustment sleeves and draglink are all currently sitting in my garage.

Clayton double sheer will be here tuesday.

What should I paint the steering with? I thought about using my unmixed monstaliner on it but meh.
Paint? I'm gonna try epoxy floor coating that I have left over... that's the aluminum colored liner I'd mentioned in my build thread.
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Unread 06-22-2013, 01:51 PM   #744
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Paint? I'm gonna try epoxy floor coating that I have left over... that's the aluminum colored liner I'd mentioned in my build thread.
automotive paints only
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Unread 06-22-2013, 02:48 PM   #745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNFJ View Post

automotive paints only
Why? You didn't use paint for the body? Are you dyslexic?
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Unread 06-22-2013, 02:49 PM   #746
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The black wrangler in the dirt behind me ended up like this:

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Unread 06-22-2013, 02:50 PM   #747
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Why? You didn't use paint for the body? Are you dyslexic?
wat.


"epoxy floor coating"

Is not automotive grade paint.

Right paint for the right job duder.
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Unread 06-22-2013, 02:56 PM   #748
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Bad angle but if you look at the sway bar links you can see how off center the axle is.

And you can sort of see where the track bar kinked.
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Unread 06-22-2013, 03:33 PM   #749
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wat.

"epoxy floor coating"

Is not automotive grade paint.

Right paint for the right job duder.
The hell, it's been repelling every chemical that goes in a vehicle on the floor of my shop for 4 years. I'm using it cuz it's free! And it may turn out to work friggin' awesome.
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Unread 06-22-2013, 04:29 PM   #750
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Where's the video of you in the rocks???

Sent from my xj
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