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Unread 09-05-2013, 05:16 PM   #16
AM92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom95YJ View Post

I run 3.75 you wont have any issues with 3.75 or 4"
I think I'll run that by 15x8 rims

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Unread 09-05-2013, 05:18 PM   #17
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Want to have an aggressive look
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Unread 09-05-2013, 06:28 PM   #18
Tom95YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AM92
I think I'll run that by 15x8 rims
Mine are 15x8's also
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Unread 09-10-2013, 06:05 PM   #19
AM92
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I just ordered these rims http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-85-5865
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Unread 09-11-2013, 09:23 AM   #20
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Good choice in wheel. They look good and are fairly cheap. I have them in 15x10. And if you wanted to get into some serious offroading, they are very easy to convert to beadlocks.
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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:05 PM   #21
AM92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychoteen101 View Post
Good choice in wheel. They look good and are fairly cheap. I have them in 15x10. And if you wanted to get into some serious offroading, they are very easy to convert to beadlocks.
how would those rims convert to beadlocks?
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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:10 PM   #22
Timo_90xj
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Basically any steel wheel converts to beadlocks very easily: get precut weld-on 15" (or whatever you wheel diameter is) beadlocks, burn in, install tires, bolt in beadlock outer ring, you're done.

For example these, or any other similar:

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...ck_p_1589.html
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:46 PM   #23
psychoteen101
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Google DIY beadlocks and youll get a few companies that make them. If you know how to mig weld, its very easy to install. A set will cost around $225 +shipping, got mine from diybeadlocks.com. The only issue with them is i doubt they are very streetable. I have them on my cherokee which is strictly a trail rig, so i have not attempted to balance them. Im assuming they will be near impossible to get right. Dyna beads may help, but i dont know how much. In any sense, on a trail rig, these things are a great mod to have. Even with the cost of the locks and wheels, its still cheaper than buying a set of bead lock wheels and they work just as well.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:48 PM   #24
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And the cost of hardware if not included. I bought grade 5 nuts, bolts, lock and flat washers in bulk from napa. Cost me about $150
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:54 PM   #25
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I had to pound the heck out of the inside of the wheel well to make 33x12.5 hankooks work. And trimmed and 3" bump stop and it still just barely nicks the fender.

I'm mostly worried that the tires will rip the brake lines off the frame when turning/flexed up.

4.5" lift btw

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Unread 09-17-2013, 04:26 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krawler510 View Post
I had to pound the heck out of the inside of the wheel well to make 33x12.5 hankooks work. And trimmed and 3" bump stop and it still just barely nicks the fender.

I'm mostly worried that the tires will rip the brake lines off the frame when turning/flexed up.

4.5" lift btw

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What's the backspace on your wheels?
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Unread 09-17-2013, 04:52 PM   #27
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-19 offset so 3.75"?
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Unread 09-17-2013, 05:06 PM   #28
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-19 offset so 3.75"?
And you still rub at 4.5?
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Unread 09-17-2013, 05:07 PM   #29
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Do you have stock brakelines?
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Unread 09-17-2013, 05:44 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AM92
Do you have stock brakelines?
No, they're extended. I haven't fully tested but it looks like the tire can get dangerously close to the hard line. But I could be wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AM92

And you still rub at 4.5?
The tires hit the fender liners while turning on flat ground so I ripped them out. They hit all over inside the wheel well with the sway bar unhooked, hence me cutting and bending all the pinch seams and cutting the fenders. Still a tight fit when fully stuffed as you can see.

The rear has plenty of room so far.

I had to take this from totally stock to its present form in 3 weeks so testing wasn't much of an option until now.
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image-1877719551.jpg

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