Rust - POR15 vs. Rust Bullet vs. Eastwood Rust Encapsulator
The Jeep is off the road for a while so I'm going to clean up the underside a bit. I live in NY so this thing is as rusty as they come. (currently in the middle of a floor pan replacement). I've started looking at the POR 15 and found that its got a lot of steps involved and also read that it didnt hold up as some people had wanted. I searched some more and found rust bullet. I found a nice write up with pics of a really rotted truck painted over with the rust bullet. Then I found the eastwood rust encapsulator which seems to be a damn good product. If anyone else has this prob let me know how severe your rust is, what you used, how involved was the prep work and of course... did it work. Heres some links to the 3 products I'm looking at.
Rust converters do not work and do not hold up. They are also very difficult to use with body filler and standard automotive paints. I know, I have tried it.
POR-15 works as advertised only if you carefully follow the directions and use all the prep products to clean and acid etch the bare metal. I think if somebody has complaints about POR-15 they did not follow the directions. POR-15 once dry can be sanded smooth and body fillers and standard paints can be applied over it. I have have used POR-15 on my rock-rails, bumper, axles, and the rusty upper corners of the windshield.
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Of those I've only used POR-15. I've used it on numerous items, with hit and miss success to some extent. Now I do prep and prep and prep so I can't be accused of not doing that right. In fact I'm sure there's been times that I removed too much rust and lost tooth for the paint to grab onto, then I added back on with the etching product. The good news though is if it sticks, it sticks. I painted my D30 when I regeared 4 years earlier and I would say at least 85% of the paint was still intact and as good as the day I originally painted it. Took a wire wheel to the bad spots and touched them up. Now two years later the axle is looking much better. Not that I gave it a real good eyeballing, but I would say it is predominently still in pristine shape.
I know a good chance of one of the problems I may have experienced would possibly be pin holes in the paint from application in high humidity. Humidity causes it to dry faster and does cause somewhat of a bubbling in the paint. Generally I do two coats so most of the time the second coat catches what the first doesn't. But not always needless to say.
Im planning on doing the underside of my tub and bumpers with por15. They say it isnt uv resistant though. I wonder if I went over it with uv resistant rattle can paint and some flat black, how it would look/hold up? Anybody else try this?
i've used por 15 a bunch as well. the biggest issue is if it's to humid is dries way to fast and get little pin head bubbles in it. However if you follow the prep steps the will stick and stay. I did the upper corners of the windshield on one of my old xj's and it still looked great 2 years later.
I know a lot of guys who swear by the monster liner chassis saver. i have a couple of friends in the auto body repair and they have all told me chassis saver is better performing product then por 15.
POR-15 has a UV resistant top coat paint. Follow the application instructions on the POR-15 website and you can top coat with any paint.
I've cheated and rattlecanned primer as it dried. When its just a bit tacky Ill hit it with some primer then topcoat. Its worked well so far
I too find POR hit and miss and rust converters total garbage.
I found that if you use it on heavy scale straight from the can it sticks like death.
I used it on my heavily pitted Torino roof after following all the instructions to a T and it peeled.
On my 62 F100 I did the bedfloor from the can and it stayed with no issues for 3 years before I sold it.
I also found on that project if you don't topcoat what happens. It turns chalky and gets an everything you put in back.
I talked to a painter I know-The only autopainter that didn't make me homicidal and he basically
said the zinc the POR Metal ready leaves behind will defeat adhesion.
I found it to be true no matter how much I rinsed it off. When POR peels you'll want to kill yourself cause stripping it sucks
Basically for rust proofing POR is great on heavy scale rust used WITHOUT the prep products.
For rust removal I use this: RUST REMOVER
Its spendy but it works fantastic. If you don't epoxy prime IMMEDIATELY it'll flash rust in seconds. The poor man's substitute can be found at Home Depot.
ZEP makes a rust remover that takes a day or so to get rid of rust. The Blue lightening takes about 30 minutes.
Current: 99XJ 6.5 lift-Bought 2015
Sold: Patriot Blue 00 XJ.
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Old thread is old.
Anyway, can you use the POR15 over the factory 'undercoating'? I just got the cleanest, most rust free 01 XJ in all of New England, and I plan on keeping it that way. I want to coat the underside real good, and I will be pulling the entire interior out and painting the floors with whatever I decide. Not taking any chances with this one!