Aka the dana 44 also has the capability to carry a single trail spare axle like the 8.25 and 8.8. (Meaning that those axles aren't better than the 44 in that respect).
Originally Posted by fedx95 View Post
Originally Posted by DNFJ View Post
I threw it up because all future new guys, or readers searching this subject may want to know about a different axle...so in my post I just tried covering them all. Then maybe a newer reader or searcher won't need to make a new thread!That's why the 8.8 was brought in.
My opinion for the op was stated. If he feels like he wants drop in and go, grab the 44 no question. If he wants a bit more strength and disks and usually a limited slip stock if you buy the correct axle, and correct gears when searching. The 8.8 could be for him, albeit more work setting up perches and such.
You realize that you can add/upgrade to disks on an XJ D44 or 8.25 incredibly easily right?
'00 XJ 8.5" on 35s
'00 XJ 8.5" on 35s
'00 TJ 2" on 33" Grabbers
'00 XJ 6.5" on 35" KM2s
'96 ZJ 2" on 31" Baja Claws
'93 ZJ - Stock, Totaled
Originally Posted by DNFJ View Post
So out of my entire post you think my point to the 8.8 was disks
Go back to my first post you will see my 8.8 was originally drum. Disks had nothing to do with the 8.8, other than it being nice that they have them. My points are 100% correct, and 100% valid. The 8.8 is stronger now matter. Which way you fold it, the 44 comes in second. The 44 to buy a "base" "stock" axle will always forever cost more than the 8.8 unless you find one in the yards, you "may" get a LSD, you will be extremely hard pressed to find one with 4.10s. Actually I think the highest factory gear set in those was 3.73.
Either way in the ops case, the 44 would be good because the price is right. He could run it or flip it for more cash & build an 8.8. For others searching the subject they may not be so lucky. 44s out here cost am arm and a leg usually, and at that are semi hard to come by. 8.8s are the opposite. They can be hand for under 200 with disks all day, and the LSD and higher geared ones will do 250-500 pending who's selling it and the condition. So for ME the 8.8 was the best choice overall. Again for the op he has a 44 for under 300...why not grab it and run it..or if he wants grab it and flip it for 500 or so and build an 8.8.
And 8.8 disks aren't a "bolt on swap" for the 44. The c8.25 is much easier! The 44 you need retainer plates, some retainers to make up for the difference in thickness ect. Ad you will need to drill out some holes on he backing plates. I did this swap with a buddy on his 44. Far from bolt on. And once yours done adding the cost of the axle 200-400, 150 to be cheap for disks swap, closer to 250 and new bearings and seals and such for another what...80 or so? You at 450-650.
My 8.8 came with the locker and diff cover but ill leave those out. But I picked up a 8.8 with 4.56s for under 200. I payed for a wheel barrel (200 and anything that fits is yours) but price breaks down like this. 186 for my axle out the yard, complete disk swap for 56. New pads and disks off eBay for 48+12 shipping. I ended up getting c-max ceramic pads which have great online reviews, and mismatched disks. 1 was a ATE performance rotor, the other was blank. The company exchanged the blank for 21 bucks. Leaving my total at 200+ 81. 2 new soft lines were 8 each from rock auto + shipping. Say 25 total, as I don't remember. Making the total 200+ 81 + 25. I got perches and shock mounts from rock tactics on pirate board as they have "low profile" perches vs ruff stuff or others that lift you .5". That stuff cost me 38. Leaving me at 200+ 81+ 25+ 38. So I have a total of 350. For a bolt in ready 8.8, minus rtv & oil & new spri ngs/pins for the aussie. I got lucky with my locker and diff cover. Another thing to not is the 44 still needs a new. Carrier for higher gearing. The ford 8.8 uses 1 carrier no matter what gear ratio you have..that's another 60 bucks + to even regear a 44.
We can argue all day. But points are clear for future users. In the ops case, as stated in every one of my posts, the 44 is great for 250. Either run it, or flip it for more cash and build a 8.8 which is stronger out of the box!
Originally Posted by Mike934 View Post
Wrong! You can use the same carrier with thick cut D44 gears.
Originally Posted by alexrule123 View Post
Thick cut gears are an option yes but then lockers are usually more expensive. For instance a trutrac..I know for the d30 its almost 500 for one that's 3.55 and down...no thick cut gears for a 30 before you think I'm claiming that..while a 3.73 and up cost roughly half that. Last time I looked at pricing for the d44 it was the same..the lower carrier version costing more. Also I believe thick cut gears are more than normal gears. When you add in the correct carrier thick cut gears are usually 20-40 cheaper. Then thinking about lockers, the lower carrier being more.. It depends if you buy new or used but it usually ends up being cheaper to buy a carrier & correct gears from the start.
Again this depends because you may already have a full case locker or LSD for your lower carrier, thus thicker gears being better..or starting from stretch regular gears being better. Also lunch box lockers are a pain in the arse to install & uninstall with thick cut gears. I believe you need to notch a couple teeth to remove the center pin.
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