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Unread 04-13-2010, 09:35 AM   #16
MY99XJ
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what is the best way to take all the trim off? i experimented yesterday, but i only ended up doing my visors. i want to do the whole headliner maybe this weekend, but i dont have the time for trial and error a bunch of times. my headliner is in perfect condition, but a little dirty. just want a darker color so i doesnt look so bad lol.

and, how long did it take you start to finish?

thanks!!

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Unread 04-13-2010, 06:13 PM   #17
N2Fix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MY99XJ View Post
what is the best way to take all the trim off? i experimented yesterday, but i only ended up doing my visors. i want to do the whole headliner maybe this weekend, but i dont have the time for trial and error a bunch of times. my headliner is in perfect condition, but a little dirty. just want a darker color so i doesnt look so bad lol.

and, how long did it take you start to finish?

thanks!!
Good question! I started with a plan in mind on how I wanted it to come out (mind you, I've never done it before) because I thought it would help me when it came time to reinstall it all. Also, because I tend to forget stuff, I used a Sharpie marker to identify parts as I pulled them off...just made a small note on the back of the trim piece. Started in the front and worked my way back - pulled the visors first and then the overhead console. It will help for you to fold your rearview mirror as far down as you can before you start to remove the OC. For the OC, there are two screws in the front corners that hold it in. When those are pulled, the front will pull down and then you slide the OC forward to release the rear tab that is over the headliner board. Hope that makes sense to you. There will be two wiring harnesses that will need to be unplugged from the OC. Next, I pulled the door frame pillar trim - two screws on each one under little decorative covers. They don't have to come out, just need to be loose. Now, pull all the grab handles...there is a little trim piece that pulls out of the way to expose the screws.
This is where I found out that I couldn't do the whole thing from front to back. So, I went to the hatch and pulled the rear dome light. It should pull straight down exposing a wiring harness. Now, pull the speaker grills straight out - there are five clips holding each in place and they should come out easily. Remove each speaker - two screws in each. Unplug the wiring harness and you can get the speakers out of the way. Now it's time for the big Torx bolts holding the rear seat belts - pull the bolts and the belts will hang out of the way.
The upper side trim is in three pieces on each side, two are metal, one is plastic. The rear is held on with two screws, the middle and front are held by the grab handle screws. Start on one side and work forward; pull the two screws and remove the rearmost upper side trim. The middle piece will then slide rearward and come out. Same with the front. Except for the driver's side, which is held in place with two plastic clips (no grab handle!). You can grab that piece with both hands and gently pull straight out - should pop out easily. Ok, home stretch!
Return to the rear hatch and pull the six screws holding the upper trim in place and that will come right out. All that remains is to remove the screws holding the rear corner trim in place and then remove each of those - there is a split on the bottom of this piece that will allow you to get it off of the air spring for the rear gate. The headliner should gently slide right out the rear hatch. Now, grab a beer bottle (a full one will do nicely) in your left hand, a bottle opener in your right, make the required prying motion, sip beer, relax. Wasn't as hard as you thought it was!

Now comes the easy part - fabric and foam removal! The fabric should peel off easily, considering the foam it was bonded to deteriorated completely in 9 years. The foam is a little tougher to remove. I used a dry, stiff-bristled scrub brush. It seemed to work just fine although it did take some effort. If you are putting up a thin fabric, like I was, extra care taken on this step will pay off in the finished product, because you want it to be as smooth as possible. I placed the area I was scrubbing on the floor so I wasn't flexing the backerboard and risking damage. Just keep working a section at a time until all the foam is gone. ALL the foam! Trust me, it is worth it.
Ok, you're probably just about up to the application of the new fabric. I set my board on sawhorses in the garage for this. Using one of those sticky lint rollers, I was able to get off all the last little bits of the original headliner foam that cling to the board. Get your fabric layed out properly on the board and dry-fit the fabric to make sure it fits and you will have proper overlap on all edges. You will not want to find out after you have glued 90% of it on that you are skewed or coming up short - all bad things! Somewhere I read that you should start in the center and work toward the edges, so that is what I did. If I were to do it over again, and I pray that I won't have to anytime soon, I would start in the back and work forward - because those speaker housings were a pain in the butt to do last when there isn't any margin for error. (That said, the wrinkles and creases are on the backside of the speakers and not easily seen.) I rolled the fabric inside-out and worked about 18 inches at a time, following the instructions for the glue right down to the letter. Take your time and work the fabric slowly and you should be able to get it down without wrinkles. If you feel a wrinkle, stop! Gently peel it up a bit and smooth it out.

As for how long it took, I'd have to say that I have the better part of two days tied up in the project. Of course, the day I started to glue it down, I also had to make two trips to the store because I didn't have enough glue. Remember, you can always take it back! I used 4 cans for the whole project.

All else fails, shoot me a PM with your number and I'll give you a call and we'll talk each other through it!

Last edited by N2Fix; 04-14-2010 at 10:33 AM.. Reason: Sometimes I can't count...
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Unread 04-13-2010, 07:29 PM   #18
portcityXJ
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good job man! and hello from a local!

close enough anyways. ha
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Do they come in any other varieties besides crap?
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Unread 04-13-2010, 08:23 PM   #19
thakoolaidkid
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Nice write up, man. I was just curious, you said the fabric you used was pretty thin and light, but I went to that site and all the ones I keep seeing are denim or twill. Aren't those pretty heavy?

Is this the one you picked up? Fabric By The Yard - Blue/Gray Digital Camo Twill I'm partial to Army ACU Digi Camo personally, but I want to make sure I'm not picking too heavy a fabric for the headliner.

Thanks!
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Unread 04-14-2010, 10:30 AM   #20
N2Fix
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Originally Posted by thakoolaidkid View Post
Nice write up, man. I was just curious, you said the fabric you used was pretty thin and light, but I went to that site and all the ones I keep seeing are denim or twill. Aren't those pretty heavy?

Is this the one you picked up? Fabric By The Yard - Blue/Gray Digital Camo Twill I'm partial to Army ACU Digi Camo personally, but I want to make sure I'm not picking too heavy a fabric for the headliner.

Thanks!
That is the exact one that I used. I would have used the Army's ACU pattern if I had a different color interior - the blue and gray just goes with mine. I guess the vast collection of suits, shirts and ties in my closet just carries over into my life as a Jeeper. Hope y'all can forgive and accept!

Not sure if that fabric is going to be too heavy or not...guess I'll let you know in a couple of months!

Make sure you post up a picture of your headliner as you're doing it, would love to see how it works with the other color!
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Unread 04-14-2010, 10:32 AM   #21
N2Fix
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Originally Posted by portcityXJ View Post
good job man! and hello from a local!

close enough anyways. ha
As far as I'm concerned, Brunswick is just a northern suburb of Jax.
Thanks for the compliment.
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Unread 04-14-2010, 05:27 PM   #22
portcityXJ
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Originally Posted by N2Fix View Post
As far as I'm concerned, Brunswick is just a northern suburb of Jax.
Thanks for the compliment.
you are absolutely right ha.
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Do they come in any other varieties besides crap?
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Unread 04-14-2010, 07:48 PM   #23
thakoolaidkid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N2Fix View Post
That is the exact one that I used. I would have used the Army's ACU pattern if I had a different color interior - the blue and gray just goes with mine. I guess the vast collection of suits, shirts and ties in my closet just carries over into my life as a Jeeper. Hope y'all can forgive and accept!

Not sure if that fabric is going to be too heavy or not...guess I'll let you know in a couple of months!

Make sure you post up a picture of your headliner as you're doing it, would love to see how it works with the other color!
It's probably going to be about a month but I'll post. Thanks for the info, buddy.
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Unread 04-14-2010, 11:29 PM   #24
D-BOI
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great job man, how did you do the visors?
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Unread 04-15-2010, 08:32 PM   #25
N2Fix
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Originally Posted by D-BOI View Post
great job man, how did you do the visors?
Thanks! The visors were actually pretty easy. Without retyping everything here, look back earlier in the thread and you'll see how I took them apart. Under the fabric, you will find that the visor is a black plastic "clamshell" type of contraption that is hinged at the top where it pivots. After getting it apart, I simply unfolded it, removed all hardware (like mirrors, pivots, etc.) layed it out flat, and cut a piece of fabric that was a couple inches larger on all sides than the visor. Next, I arranged the fabric and visor base on my prep table, with the surface to be glued facing up. You will notice that there is that little flexible flappy-thing on the end of the visor - I didn't think it would work well if I glued the crap out of something that is supposed to flex, so I ran a strip of masking tape over that fold line on the visor. Next, I sprayed a coat of adhesive on the visor, a coat on the fabric, and another coat on the visor and then walked away for about 5 minutes to let the glue tack up. Then, working the long edge of the visor opposite the mirror cutout, I grasped the corners of the fabric closest to the visor and began to roll it over (don't forget to leave that couple inches of overhang!) and then slowly and gently rolled it onto the visor, smoothing it out as I went. Smooth it all out and press it down with even pressure all around.
Next step was to trim the fabric. I placed it on a large plastic cutting board and, using a fresh utility knife blade, I trimmed the excess fabric all around, leaving about 3/4" of overhang. After this is trimmed, I went back to my prep table and sprayed a thin and narrow bead of adhesive on this exposed overhanging fabric and the inside of the visor where that piece of fabric will fold in. Let that sit for a few moments to tack-up. Now, simply roll and press that fabric over all the way around. You will have to probably do some creative 'trial and error' trimming, cutting and folding where the pivot rod inserts and also where the little stub on the opposite side inserts. Shouldn't be too tough to see how it will need to be trimmed and rolled as soon as you see it laid out in front of you.
You have probably noticed that your mirror opening is covered with fabric...here we go! Back to the cutting board with it. With the visor up and fabric down on the cutting board, the long edge of the visor facing you (the half with the mirror opening!), take up your sharp utility blade. Beginning in the lower left corner, approx 1/4" from the corner, make a cut at a 45 degree angle toward the center of the mirror opening. Do the same for the lower right corner. Same thing for the opposite corners. This sketch may help to see what we're shooting for...of course, if you still have the original piece of fabric that came off the visor, you would have a template! Looks something like this:

(In the little sketch, the area in blue will be gone altogether)
Now, go ahead and get the mirror back in place, tucking the little flaps you just cut behind the mirror. Take note of how the original fabric was tucked and you'll see exactly how to do this. The rod/pivot arm simply snaps into place. Now you're ready to fold it back together!
Warning: it is tough to fold! A combination of a tougher fabric and glued surfaces make it not want to yield easily. Rest assured, with some patience and persistence it will fold up nicely and everything will snap closed and it will be beautiful. Last, just push, twist, and slide that little stub in the opposite side of the pivot and then go install it before moving on to the last step...as follows:
Open cooler, grab bottle, open bottle, sip beer. Repeat as needed until smiling.
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Unread 07-09-2014, 05:13 PM   #26
Riley/MN
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resurrection I know, but four years later, how did it hold up?
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Unread 07-09-2014, 08:34 PM   #27
jeepjunkie97
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Originally Posted by Riley/MN
resurrection I know, but four years later, how did it hold up?
Mine held for less than 3 days. Make sure you go heavy on the glue
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Unread 07-09-2014, 10:27 PM   #28
N2Fix
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Originally Posted by Riley/MN View Post
resurrection I know, but four years later, how did it hold up?
It held up beyond my expectations! I drove my beloved XJ around until November of last year until we finally came to the realization we needed something substantially bigger to safely tow our offshore fishing boat. I'm now rolling around in a 1999 Suburban 2500 with a 6.5L turbo diesel. (Say what you will about the gutless giant...)
I am happy to report that she went to live with a great multi-XJ family in New Orleans area. A super nice guy flew into the Jacksonville airport, I picked him up in the Jeep, we filled out some paperwork, and he drove her straight home. All good except for a little tear in my eye.
As for the durability of the headliner re-do, in four years there was not a single sag. And that's living through some hot Florida summers. It really turned out better than I anticipated. Though I do tend to be meticulous about doing projects. Like the 5 hours I just spent getting my live rock just exactly how I want it...in a 29 gallon nano reef tank. My wife hates me right now.
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Unread 07-11-2014, 02:29 PM   #29
wisexj99
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looks great, im needing to do this myself. what adhesive did you use?
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Unread 07-11-2014, 03:13 PM   #30
lk123
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Nice job man. I did real 3d hunter camo on mine but only used 2 cans of 3m and it's either the glue or material of the fabric but it's bubbling
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