This is going to be my build thread for my 99 4dr sport. I came here from fullsize ford land so this is my first jeep build that I'll be wheeling, I've been involved with building my fathers 89 yj with a 400+ hp SBF and helped a couple friends build, tj's, xjs and one with a zj. My plan for this build is going to be in phases. This thread is going to be phase 1, I'll be fixing it loose ends from the previous owner and getting ready for weekend warrior status and capable of weekend long trips to hit more mid level trails at places like rausch and mabell.
Heres some specs
4.0, aw4 231j, 30 front and 8.25 with 3.55's open open.
I got it with a 4 inch lift with rough country lca's and coils, skyjacker shocks, full leaf packs and shackles, jcr stage 2 sliders, logans offroad bumpers front and rear, with an xrc8, 6 hella 500's with a yakihma load warrior rack, sitting on pro comp 32s on soft 8's and ebay snorkel (which isn't hooked up and I may get rid of) Trimmed and mini comp cut.
So far what I've done to it.
lok right in the 30
teraflex track bar
installed coil isolators (they were taken out for some reason)
longer front brake hoses and relocated them.
Solid front diff cover
Drill and pin shift handle to lock shifter to hit reverse easier
LED Brake and reverse light bulbs
I have an sye, tnt mid stiffeners and tomken rail to rail t case skid coming in the mail for this week.
Phase one plans
rear diff skid
relocate rear shock axle mounts
gears (in the 4.56 flavor)
body armor (front fender, lower door and quarters with rub rails)
long arms and bumpstops (still deciding on 3 link or radius arms)
Heres some pictures of the rig. Sorry for the poor quality.
Here it is on a ramp getting me a poor score of 432 on a 25* ramp
Got started tonight on my swing out tire carrier, which isn't on the list of things to do but I want to free up space and it just came together tonight.
Started with a JK front LCA, working at a jeep dealer and having left over arms from installing the Mopar lift kit (Moparized Teraflex Short Arm is all it is). I started with pressing out one of the bushings and removing the bolt sleeve from the rubber. Then took an 1/8" washer and another 1/8" square washer from a hitch install kit and welded them together to make a cap to hold the sleeve in place where the bushing would be in the arm on the top side, then took a 3/16th inch thick washer the same diameter as the bushing outter sleeve and bored it to fit around the bolt sleeve. Then cut away the extra length of bolt sleeve, leaving 1/16th inch exposed through the hole in the washer for the bottom. Then welded the bolt sleeve to the upper washer and drilled holes in the sides to allow grease for the mounting/ pivot bolt. Then welded the upper washer with bolt sleeve to the bushing sleeve on the arm and welded the bottom washer to the bushing sleeve on the arm and welded the bolt sleeve to the bottom washer (thats the reason for the extra 1/16th inch) and ground them smooth to help with pivoting ease. Then once letting the welds cool, drilled a hole near the arm itself with a 7/32's bit and tapped it with a 1/4 - 28 tap and threaded in a 45* grease fitting. The general idea of this portion of the tire carrier build is to achieve a pivoting/ mounting point for the tire carrier that will not flex (like leaving the bushing in would have done) when the tire carrier is opened and to also allow it to be greased to prevent ceasing and also to make it open smoothly. The bushing sleeve on the arm will be filled with grease and the holes drilled in the bolt sleeve mentioned earlier will allow the grease to make it to the bolt. And thats where I'm at with the tire carrier right now. It will be mounted with a grade 8 bolt and nut at the pivot, the bumper is going to get drilled and the nut will be sunk into the bumper and welded in place. I will be adding a bracket the goes over top of the pivot point to act as a double shear and the side that opens out will retain the bushing, and will be secured with a nut sunk into the bumper and welded and I will use a bolt modified to have a wing nut style top. If your still with me and aren't to confused congrats, if you got lost with all the talk of washers and sleeves and holes and nuts, I'll try to get some pics to help out, unfortunately I don't have any pics of most of the stuff I just spoke about. But some can still be shown.
Got a lot done since the last update. I now have tnt mid stiffeners, RC sye, tomken t case skid and tranny/engine skid, and I'm building mid arms. And I've made a trip up to mabell without breaking already!
If you are debating 3 link vs. radius arm, go 3 link. Only way to go, especially between these two choices.
I actually was going to post about that. I am already building my mid arms infact they are pretty much done right now I just need the drop in krawler joint for the upper axle mount.
They are pretty short also they only measure out to 23.5" which will keep them relatively close to the front so I don't loose to much clearence at the belly area.
I'm doing a single y radius similar to iro but I'm using a joint to mount the upper link to lower arm for adjust-ability and then a joint at the axle side. It will reduce axle wrap compared to the weak rubber bushing and it will also take a larger bolt for more strength.
As far as materials go I'm using 1.75" solid stock for the lower arms, with ballistic joints at one end and jj's at the other end and some old style crawler joints for the upper link mount. I've got a set of barnes4x4 chassis side .250 link brackets that I will be using also. The upper link is going to be 3/16" and I will be sleeving it with another 1/8" and drilling and plug welding them together. I figure since the upper link won't be getting hit against rock and slammed on like a lower link 5/16" thick will be plenty.
Finished the mid arms over a month ago with zero issues. Also built a custom grill hoop with light hoops to act as radiator protection and header panel protection in case of a roll and on that note, I'll be installing a rock hard sport cage by the end of the year.
The main hoop is 1.75" .134 wall tube and the light hoops are 1.25" .134 wall tube.
cool, not bad at all look like they hang down a bit, but i like the fact you built them and put them to use. looks great.
Yeah I was skeptical about how low they hang but, the passenger side is the main reason, so when I go to longer shocks they don't hit the shock mount. And they don't really bother anything, I went wheeling today with some guys from my club and I had the smallest tires by far, everybody had 35's and one guy had 36" iroks and my bald 32's are maybe 31" tall now and at 10 psi they aren't getting taller lol. Luckily for me the arms slide great over rocks.
I'm currently in the process of building a rear diff glider also to help with dragging it over the rocks.