Picked up a used front driveshaft from the junkyard . $42
Iron Rock H&T kit w/ drill jig. $115
Rebuilt the driveline myself .
3 u-joints from orileys . $40
CV ball w/ seal . $45
Doing the DS wasnt bad. I took it aprt in order (u-joint, CV, u-joint) then put it back together that way. Just used a big flathead screwdriver to pry out the ball wich almost came out with the race too but I wasnt that lucky.
Pryed the race out using a hammer on the handle being careful not to
mar-up the outside edge then tapped in the new ball/race and the new seal.
Gently tapped the rubber cup back in with the scewdriver and filled the cavity with grease and put the spring inside.
Putting in the last u-joint was probably the hardest part . Get the 2 cups in first then hold down the CV to make clearance to slide the last 2 cups in.
It may help to slide em' in by turning the u-joint to the side .
When putting cups in put a blob of grease inside with your finger to make a bell shape in the bottom. This will help the needle bearings stay in place to make it easier.
A good test for a CV rebuild is hold it sideways (like on a table) and if it stays straight your good.
New drive shaft next to the old one. (didnt have any black paint but I had army green.)
In the instructions it say to measure 33-3/4 inches from the center of the rear u-joint (flat part) to the t-case shaft.
Since I needed a DS 1 inch longer than stock cause of my axle swap . I measured my new driveline u-joint to u-joint and made sure I had 1 inch of compression in the slip-yoke. You have 3/4" to play with on either side of the 33-3/4" mark but any shorter than this mark and you'll have to cut the new yoke.
Mine turned out to be 3/4" longer than their suggested mark.
Their mark on the right and mine on the left (arrow) . (blue tape)
I must have measured it 100 times to make sure before I cut. I did put it in drive for the cut neutral was too slow. It made for a smoother cut overall .
I defenatly recommend getting the drill jig(gets the hole nice and straight) and use some tape (or other) to mark the drillbit at an 1-1/8th depth.
Look what a mess im making just from drilling.
Now this is where it slows down big time. Tapping the threads.
I used a small 1/4" drive ratchet to prevent the tap from breaking.
Staring slowly I only got about a 1/4 turn before having to back it out. Repeating this a 100 X . Be patient . This took me a few hours.
Once it gets past 1/2" it gets better.
Once I had it all done I used red lock-tight (alot) so it'll never come loose.
Also used a yellow paint marker on the head of the bolt so I can check it from time to time.