- I wanted to get more work done to ready the XJ for the new meats.
So I finished out the other rear quarter. The fuel fill neck presents an interesting challenge but a little tweak here and there and some aluminum metal ducting tape seals everything right up.
Here's a shot with everything primed and a coat of undercoating in the well:
Couple shots of the finished box in:
Also got both wheels sanded, primed, and finished while I had them off:
Took care of the driver p/w:
Blacked out the front driver quarter as well. Got alot done today - gotta get the passenger p/w and quarter, as well as that last wheel. I'm thinking I might go ahead and blackout the sides from the trim down to the rockers sooner than later. My plan is to cut the rockers out and fab in some steel rocker/slider replacements. But I have some rust spots on the lower doors and rockers that I'm thinkin I will address now because I really don't know when a rocker redo will happen.
This is what the XJ driver side looks like as of now:
Even though this is gonna be my trail rig it's good times cutting, hammering, bending, and painting it up in order to give it a face lift.
Today I got all the body work done that I'm wanting to at this point.
Got the passenger p/w taken care of:
Cuts made, folded over, and primed:
Still need to get a pool noodle stuffed up in there, but I finished out the passenger front quarter:
Got the rust on the lower doors and rockers ground of, primed, sealed, primed again, undercoated, and flat blacked:
I used the aluminum ducting tape to seal the rotted passenger rearward rocker. It is a temporary fix as I plan to cut the rockers out eventually, but I wanted to get the existing rust ground off/cut out and under control first.
I also got the last wheel sanded, primed, and finished. Right now I have the rear tire/rims over at the local Wallyworld getting swapped with the KM2s. I can only get two old/new at a time in the back of the WK so the fronts will get done later today or possibly tomorrow.
This is how my beater sits asof my completed work this afternoon:
Still more to come as I have more stuff to get done, so until next time.............
Got the meats on the front and the tcase fluid swapp'd today. I posted the tcase fluid change in the technical sub-forum as well
for future reference.
I had the front of the XJ on jackstands getting my new meats put on the front wheels and figured it was the perfect time for a tcase service.
You don't have to jack the front up but it probably wouldn't hurt so you can get the most old fluid to drain out.
Supplies and tools:
2 quarts ATF (DexronIII/Merc) - probably only need 1 as not all the old fluid drains out - but you can always save what you don't use or return it. 10mm allen wrench quasi breaker bar - (larger deepwell socket & extension) teflon tape drain pan and shop towels
First things first. Anytime you have a drain and a fill plug, always make sure you can break the fill plug free before getting started. You don't have to remove it yet, just make sure it will come out:
Next, position your drain pan and remove the drain plug. Let the old fluid drain out until it isn't dripping - notice how filthy my old fluid is:
I always wrap the plugs in a little teflon tape for added seal:
Then screw the drain plug back in. I don't know the torque spec but I just snug it in:
Next I take a nozzle tip from a bottle of tcase fluid for the WK and I put a short plastic tube on the tip for refilling the tcase. Makes it easy to just insert tube in fill hole, invert bottle, and squeeze.
The specs call for roughly 1+ quarts of ATF for the tcase and you probably will get just one bottle squeezed in before the fluid starts seeping out the fill hole. (remember - not all the old fluid is going to drain out so thats the + part of 1+ quarts)
Teflon the fill plug and snug it back in place.
Give it about 5-10 minutes and crawl back under to check for any leaks. Tighten plugs if necessary - otherwise - finito!
This is a very easy DIY service to perform and requires simple tools and about 30 minutes on the long side of time. Hope this helps somebody out there in XJ land.
Once I got the phone call that the other tires were mounted I picked 'em up and put 'em on.
They weren't able to balance them and in the end because of this it only cost me 15 bucks to get all four mounted and new valve stems. I gotta look into those dynamic tire balancing beads - but I'm not overly concerned about it.
This is how the XJ sits as of this afternoon:
A pic of Jeeps and our dog - Cabo - he's only 9 months old - a baby - man he's a big dude:
^^^ Thanks dude! I think I'm gonna use the $100 Visa card from Discount Tire to buy some unibody stiffeners from TnT Customs. I'll combine that w/ the belly pan I picked up. They kind of go together since the crush sleeves for the belly pan are designed to fit the unibody rails w/ the stiffeners. Otherwise you have to cut the crush sleeves down to fit just the uni-rails. Don't want to do that. I'm dyin' to get this XJ on the trails but all in due time...............I wanted it to look good but more importantly it needs to be a good wheeler.
I've got a chance to get another rear axle - Chrysler 8.25. 29 spline out of a '00 stocker XJ. Guy wants 120 bucks. I'm tryin to decide if I wanna swap my rear axle with an open diff and put a selectable in or just run the welded rear. Swapping axles would mean $'s that I could be using for uni-stiffeners, rockrails, and dolly. One of my concerns is the XJ not liking the dolly set-up with the current welded rear, but I don't imagine it would be any different than driving it.
I'm not to technical but seems that whatever would be best for the trails would be the way to go. Once you actually take it offroad if you believe it can perform better with the different rear then go ahead and add it. Yes would take longer to buy the parts you really want but it will work for the better in the long run. The beefier the better