Milton's Other Jeep Build - Page 29 - JeepForum.com

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post #421 of 647 Old 12-20-2013, 10:42 PM
MOBBiN
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Score! on those seats

What length shackles are you running?


2001 Silverstone Metallic Classic XJ

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post #422 of 647 Old 12-21-2013, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
JeepN4KC
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Score! on those seats

What length shackles are you running?
Tell me about it!

They are 2-2.5" shackles (5" eye to eye).

~Mike~


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post #423 of 647 Old 12-21-2013, 08:40 AM
VegasGT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post

However, I'd looked at those and didn't think they'd be compatible with a rear hitch because they use the same space/bolts. But what I noticed about the pics in Brandon's thread is the HDO no lift relos are tucked up higher. My set-up appears to compromise my departure angle (the shackles and rear of springs are now low hanging fruit).

Anyway, only driven up and down the block to make sure everything's square and tight. I might go search for a flex spot today and see what these things do.
HD includes several 1/4 spacer plates to allow brackets to be mounted above or below a hitch. But yea the "tucked up" thing was a big selling point, but honestly its probably a non issue really, plenty of people out there wheeling standard relo's. I actually think it looks kinda cool as is. You could always run shorter shackles and add an extra leaf to the pack to gain some clearance back if it turned out to be an issue.

Now flex that ***** and be amazed that your rear suspension works!

P.S. Those seats.....

- '88 MJ Pioneer -
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post #424 of 647 Old 12-21-2013, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
JeepN4KC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasGT View Post
HD includes several 1/4 spacer plates to allow brackets to be mounted above or below a hitch. But yea the "tucked up" thing was a big selling point, but honestly its probably a non issue really, plenty of people out there wheeling standard relo's. I actually think it looks kinda cool as is. You could always run shorter shackles and add an extra leaf to the pack to gain some clearance back if it turned out to be an issue.

Now flex that ***** and be amazed that your rear suspension works!

P.S. Those seats.....

I know - really curious how it performs now...........

~Mike~


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post #425 of 647 Old 12-29-2013, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Temps have been well above freezing last few days and so the last winter storm we got was melting and generally making a mess. The XJ has been sitting clean in the garage since getting the relos and seats installed. Today everything is back to frozen, weather wise, so I took the blue Jeep out for a quick flex and some poser pics.







Quite pleased with the travel in the rear suspension - I didn't even get it in full flex/droop but the down travel is definitely there with ease. I see longer shocks and brake lines in the future............

~Mike~


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post #426 of 647 Old 01-01-2014, 11:07 AM
Camfam07
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looking great!
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post #427 of 647 Old 01-02-2014, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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looking great!
Thanks. I'm pretty happy with where it's at for now.
Always thinkin though............what next? :-P

~Mike~


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post #428 of 647 Old 01-05-2014, 02:21 AM
unabashedpraise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
Temps have been well above freezing last few days and so the last winter storm we got was melting and generally making a mess. The XJ has been sitting clean in the garage since getting the relos and seats installed. Today everything is back to frozen, weather wise, so I took the blue Jeep out for a quick flex and some poser pics.
Where were these taken? Off road park?

1998 Grand Cherokee Limited; 5.2 L, 249

Help: Rear left lock doesn't lock using power locks, but will unlock. Any ideas?


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post #429 of 647 Old 01-05-2014, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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Where were these taken? Off road park?
No.....I haven't had a chance to get to any good places since doing the relocations.

~Mike~


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post #430 of 647 Old 01-21-2014, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Finally took the time to work on my sagging driver's door. I picked up a couple sets of Dorman #38439 hinge pin and bushings and swapped them in. The old bushings were completely disintegrated - all of them.

This little project proved to be a PITA for what it is - I'd recommend a second set of hands for this. Dremel with little cut-off wheel works just fine to cut the pins then a big flathead and a hammer to wedge into the cut and the old pins pop out pretty easy. Getting everything back together is the fun part if doing this solo. The replacement pins have to have the serration ground off at the heads and in the end the reassembles hinges don't fit as tight as I'd hoped. May have gotten wallered out some over time after time of opening and closing with shot bushings. But it is what it is and at least I have new pins with fresh bushings and everything lubed with bearing grease.







I realize I passed on an opportunity to set this door up to go doorless, especially considering it is essentially the same steps involved. However, I'm not sure I'm sold on that modification as my tires sling some stuff when I wheel it and the doors make a good barrier between the outside of the Jeep and the inside of the Jeep. Maybe if I had flares but I probably never will...........

Besides, the new pins have snap rings that make it easy enough to remove the new pins and I could always come back to the doorless idea.

I also adjusted the striker at the b-post so the door now opens and closes smoothly w/o the need to pull up on it.

I'm not happy with the alignment but whatta ya gonna do?

Good from afar:



....but far from good:




~Mike~


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post #431 of 647 Old 03-07-2014, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Haven't done anything to or wheeled the XJ in quite a while. Everytime I plan on something for the past couple months the weather decides to ruin it.

I did take the spare front shaft I had in the garage and broke it all down - ujoints, centering socket, ball, spring, yoke etc.

I was planning to rebuild it but I'm running into some confusion as to the parts list. Specifically the centering yoke, socket, ball, spring (double cardan parts).

Any body have some solid part numbers for the double cardan rebuild on an '01 front shaft? I'm looking at Spicer 211544X but just that yoke is like 50 bucks. I also can't get a solid line on the rubber boot/dust cover.

Ideas anyone?

~Mike~


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post #432 of 647 Old 03-07-2014, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
Haven't done anything to or wheeled the XJ in quite a while. Everytime I plan on something for the past couple months the weather decides to ruin it.

I did take the spare front shaft I had in the garage and broke it all down - ujoints, centering socket, ball, spring, yoke etc.

I was planning to rebuild it but I'm running into some confusion as to the parts list. Specifically the centering yoke, socket, ball, spring (double cardan parts).

Any body have some solid part numbers for the double cardan rebuild on an '01 front shaft? I'm looking at Spicer 211544X but just that yoke is like 50 bucks. I also can't get a solid line on the rubber boot/dust cover.

Ideas anyone?

Spicer 2-86-418 CV Seal Slinger is the rubber boot/dust cover

Spicer 211355X Is the greasable yoke with centering ball/spring

Spicer 211544X is the non-greasable yoke with centering ball/spring

Moog/Precision 617 is the replacement centering ball/spring kit that you can use to avoid replacing the entire yoke, but getting the old one out is a bit of a pain.

Tool for re-installing the rubber boot:

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p154...oot_part_.html

If you don't buy that tool, buy an extra rubber boot. Odds are good you'll wreck the first one trying to get it on without the special tool (ask me how I know )


Depending on how much your time is worth to you, the replacement yokes with the centering ball already installed are worth every penny. Getting the old race out of the yoke takes a while the first time you do it.

Hopefully those part numbers answer your question?
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post #433 of 647 Old 03-07-2014, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Spicer 2-86-418 CV Seal Slinger is the rubber boot/dust cover

Spicer 211355X Is the greasable yoke with centering ball/spring

Spicer 211544X is the non-greasable yoke with centering ball/spring

Moog/Precision 617 is the replacement centering ball/spring kit that you can use to avoid replacing the entire yoke, but getting the old one out is a bit of a pain.

Tool for re-installing the rubber boot:

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p154...oot_part_.html

If you don't buy that tool, buy an extra rubber boot. Odds are good you'll wreck the first one trying to get it on without the special tool (ask me how I know )


Depending on how much your time is worth to you, the replacement yokes with the centering ball already installed are worth every penny. Getting the old race out of the yoke takes a while the first time you do it.

Hopefully those part numbers answer your question?
Well this is what I have:






I might have to look up the MOOG part. Getting the race outta the socket wasn't bad - snapped a tip of a screwdriver but I got it out with little to no damage to the parts. Only reason I even bothered was because I dropped the yoke and 3 of the needle bearings fell into the hole between the back of the ball and the yoke. I thought of just regreasing it reusing it but I still would prefer new stuff.

Thanks for the info!

~Mike~


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post #434 of 647 Old 03-07-2014, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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BTW - holycrap! 25 bucks for that tool! I'd probably never use it again.................



Edit:

Oh my God! Another 24 bucks for the Moog/Precision part from RockAuto (cheapest I see)! What have I gotten myself into?

~Mike~


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post #435 of 647 Old 03-07-2014, 02:23 PM
dukie564
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Just went though doing mine

Head over to http://www.actionmachineinc.com/

Grab two ujoints (5-1310x), one centering ball rebuild kit (404-0A), and one new dust boot (2-86-418).

$68.49 Shipped. You don't need a tool for the dust boot just slide it on and use a hammer and blunt chisel to seat it

1995 XJ Cherokee Sport
4.5" Homebrew Lift, 4.0L HO I-6, AX-15, NP231, D30(Open)/C8.25(Locked)
33x12.5 Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ Tires, 309,000 mi and runnin' strong

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