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Unread 06-22-2013, 07:38 AM   #31
krawler510
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How much tougher is an 8.25 than the D35?


I haven't looked but I imagine replacements of both aren't too hard to find?

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Unread 06-22-2013, 08:16 AM   #32
XJNKY
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I've seen a strength test posted somewhere on this forum that suggested that the 29 spline was on par with a D44. I've also heard that they're good up to 35's. Some people like to talk bad about them but I suspect that has more to do with a "must-mod" mentality than their actual robustness. There were certain years of them that Chrysler screwed up something with the shaft/bearing and they develop the "8.25 clunk".

I have a 29 spline, welded, with 3.07's in my trail rig (I know, working on changing that ratio), and I've 5-grand clutch dumped it soooo many times with 31" tractor tires. Wouldn't dare do that with a D35. I know they're only 31's, but they hook HARD.

27 splines are marginally weaker. Have a friend with a 27 spline with a lockrite and 33's, and he has beat on it hard. 280K miles on it and it's still going strong.

If you get one with a D35, it's well worth the $100 to get an 8.25".
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Unread 06-22-2013, 10:18 AM   #33
S8NNG8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krawler510 View Post
How much tougher is an 8.25 than the D35?

I haven't looked but I imagine replacements of both aren't too hard to find?

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Do a D44, cuz you'll wish you had! Period.!.!.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 05:30 AM   #34
DNFJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krawler510 View Post
How much tougher is an 8.25 than the D35?


I haven't looked but I imagine replacements of both aren't too hard to find?

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Like was said, an 8.25 is comparable to a D44.
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[CENTER][SIZE="1"][Color="Blue"][b]00 XJ Sport "Wannabe Desert Rat"[/b][/color](August 2012-Present) 4.0L - 160k Body, Monstalined Menace, ATK+ Longblock, 6.5" IRO Short Arm Lift, LMP Front Bumper, Bushwacker Flat Flares, Clayton DS Track Bar, ZJ V8 Steering, Quick Discos, Bilstein 5100s, IRO HnT SYE, Braided SS Brake Lines, 1" TC Drop, HiLift, #784 Injectors, Flowmaster Super 44, 33" BFGoodrich A/T on Outlaw IIs, Safari Snorkel, Autopal Harness + 80/100w H4 Bulbs[/SIZE]

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177/blue-waffle-build-thread-1807113"][SIZE="3"][FONT="Arial Black"][COLOR="Blue"]Blue Waffle Build Thread[/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE][/URL]
Built Not Bought #704[/CENTER]

[SIZE="1"][i]Past Jeeps:[/i]
[Color="Red"][B]93 ZJ Laredo[/B][/color](Jan 2011-April 2011) 5.2L - 98k, Stock - Totaled
[COLOR="Tan"][B]96 ZJ Laredo[/B][/COLOR](April 2011-August 2012) 4.0L - 138k, Cowl Intake, Rancho 9000 Series, 2" Spacers, 31" Baja MT Widetracks - Sold[/SIZE]

[SIZE="1"][COLOR="silver"]Monstaliner: [url]http://monstaliner.com/[/url]
Iron Rock Offroad: [url]http://ironrockoffroad.com/[/url][/SIZE][/COLOR]
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Unread 06-24-2013, 08:04 AM   #35
S8NNG8
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Originally Posted by DNFJ View Post

Like was said, an 8.25 is comparable to a D44.
Imo, if you're gonna do it, do it right the first time. The word comparable has always indicated "slightly less than equal". Thus, the terms "equal to" or "better than" are never used to describe an 8.25.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 08:55 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S8NNG8 View Post
Imo, if you're gonna do it, do it right the first time. The word comparable has always indicated "slightly less than equal". Thus, the terms "equal to" or "better than" are never used to describe an 8.25.
If you're not going above 35s, a built 8.25 is perfect.

Even with a D44, you shouldn't get going above 37s.


But then again it's not a real jeep if it's not on D60s F/R on 44s
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[CENTER][SIZE="1"][Color="Blue"][b]00 XJ Sport "Wannabe Desert Rat"[/b][/color](August 2012-Present) 4.0L - 160k Body, Monstalined Menace, ATK+ Longblock, 6.5" IRO Short Arm Lift, LMP Front Bumper, Bushwacker Flat Flares, Clayton DS Track Bar, ZJ V8 Steering, Quick Discos, Bilstein 5100s, IRO HnT SYE, Braided SS Brake Lines, 1" TC Drop, HiLift, #784 Injectors, Flowmaster Super 44, 33" BFGoodrich A/T on Outlaw IIs, Safari Snorkel, Autopal Harness + 80/100w H4 Bulbs[/SIZE]

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177/blue-waffle-build-thread-1807113"][SIZE="3"][FONT="Arial Black"][COLOR="Blue"]Blue Waffle Build Thread[/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE][/URL]
Built Not Bought #704[/CENTER]

[SIZE="1"][i]Past Jeeps:[/i]
[Color="Red"][B]93 ZJ Laredo[/B][/color](Jan 2011-April 2011) 5.2L - 98k, Stock - Totaled
[COLOR="Tan"][B]96 ZJ Laredo[/B][/COLOR](April 2011-August 2012) 4.0L - 138k, Cowl Intake, Rancho 9000 Series, 2" Spacers, 31" Baja MT Widetracks - Sold[/SIZE]

[SIZE="1"][COLOR="silver"]Monstaliner: [url]http://monstaliner.com/[/url]
Iron Rock Offroad: [url]http://ironrockoffroad.com/[/url][/SIZE][/COLOR]
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Unread 06-24-2013, 09:17 AM   #37
krawler510
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35s is the plan. The JK 44s and lockers on my old jeep held up with 35s but I'll push this harder.

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Unread 06-24-2013, 09:26 AM   #38
krawler510
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Do I just need different size u bolts to switch axles? Odds of the driveshaft having a comparable connection?

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Unread 06-28-2013, 03:19 AM   #39
krawler510
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Bought one:


Stock '99 auto in good shape.

I need this to hang with a fewJK's on 35s. RE4.5 with 33" Mud Grapplers sound good? I really want 35s again but I don't know?

It will be regeared but not before my first wheeling trip or 3.

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Unread 06-28-2013, 07:16 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krawler510 View Post
Bought one:


Stock '99 auto in good shape.

I need this to hang with a fewJK's on 35s. RE4.5 with 33" Mud Grapplers sound good? I really want 35s again but I don't know?

It will be regeared but not before my first wheeling trip or 3.

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HP30/8.25 on 35s re-geared to 4.56 imo
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[CENTER][SIZE="1"][Color="Blue"][b]00 XJ Sport "Wannabe Desert Rat"[/b][/color](August 2012-Present) 4.0L - 160k Body, Monstalined Menace, ATK+ Longblock, 6.5" IRO Short Arm Lift, LMP Front Bumper, Bushwacker Flat Flares, Clayton DS Track Bar, ZJ V8 Steering, Quick Discos, Bilstein 5100s, IRO HnT SYE, Braided SS Brake Lines, 1" TC Drop, HiLift, #784 Injectors, Flowmaster Super 44, 33" BFGoodrich A/T on Outlaw IIs, Safari Snorkel, Autopal Harness + 80/100w H4 Bulbs[/SIZE]

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177/blue-waffle-build-thread-1807113"][SIZE="3"][FONT="Arial Black"][COLOR="Blue"]Blue Waffle Build Thread[/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE][/URL]
Built Not Bought #704[/CENTER]

[SIZE="1"][i]Past Jeeps:[/i]
[Color="Red"][B]93 ZJ Laredo[/B][/color](Jan 2011-April 2011) 5.2L - 98k, Stock - Totaled
[COLOR="Tan"][B]96 ZJ Laredo[/B][/COLOR](April 2011-August 2012) 4.0L - 138k, Cowl Intake, Rancho 9000 Series, 2" Spacers, 31" Baja MT Widetracks - Sold[/SIZE]

[SIZE="1"][COLOR="silver"]Monstaliner: [url]http://monstaliner.com/[/url]
Iron Rock Offroad: [url]http://ironrockoffroad.com/[/url][/SIZE][/COLOR]
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Unread 06-28-2013, 07:25 AM   #41
krawler510
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Sounds good to me. Might even be able to go 4.88 since this will be far from a daily driver.

Just has to make it from Baltimore to Rausch Creek every month or so. And maybe 1 mile to the local boat ramp.

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Unread 06-28-2013, 07:30 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by DNFJ View Post

HP30/8.25 on 35s re-geared to 4.56 imo
This.

4.5 will do with some trimming for 33's. If you plan at staying at 33's 4.10's are the way to go. 35's should be run with 4.56's. 6.5" can clear 35's with some trimming. You will be able to keep up with jk's with 33's. I keep up with them on my 31's.
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Unread 06-28-2013, 07:49 AM   #43
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You will be able to keep up with jk's with 33's. I keep up with them on my 31's.
^This
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Unread 06-28-2013, 01:40 PM   #44
krawler510
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Excellent.


We play in a lot of rocks so I was looking at the JCR GTS, crossmember skid and engine skid. Differential covers. Sound sufficient?

I only banged my rockers good once on the jk with its long wheel base so I'm not worried about those just yet.

Will I need to mess with a pitman arm and track bar raise/drop with the 4.5" lift? The jk was fine with an adjustable track bar and control arms.

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Unread 06-28-2013, 01:48 PM   #45
XJNKY
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I believe 4.5" is right there in that area where it isn't absolutely necessary, but it's certainly not a bad idea either. Helps with bump steer.

Also, I think there was something different with the t-case output on 99+ that made vibes worse when lifted? Anyone comment on that? You'll probably need a SYE or cheater (hack-n-tap?). Either that, or a tool box well stocked with spare universal joints.
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