long arm upgrade 3 vs. 4-link - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 03-21-2017, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
jrodmk2
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long arm upgrade 3 vs. 4-link

I have been searching for the past week or so for good threads about the two. I have searched multiple forums/ threads dating back to 2006.

My current set-up: sits about 4.25" front 5" rear. (33 x 12.5-15)
RE super-ride short arm (full rear pack)3.5", OME ext. travel shocks, RE track-bar (light duty), jks discos, manual crossmember, SYE to go in soon.

parts that will go in in the next couple of months.
-acos front spacers
-rear SRB
-high pinion d-30
-29 spline 8.25 with discs
-hd mid stiffeners
-ruff-stuff front stiff

I am looking to upgrade from my short arm RE kit. I have the drop brackets brand new and just never installed them. I just can't get past the "chunkiness" of them. I also have brand new IRO adjustable uppers and lowers that I also will be getting rid of due to wanting to go LA. My issue is what is the real world difference between the two for a DD.

I have looked at the tnt/b.lee/cavfab/ RE.


1.I have found that there is braking reactions with both but potentially more with the 3-link
2. ground clearance I know can be a "potential" issue.
3. turning radius is key for me.
4. no "real" crawling of rocks but do have some l logs and some rocks on the woods trails and power lines I go on.
5. ride quality is another thing I am hoping to gain. (that has been a thing i have taken away from this in all the threads)

just looking for real world DD guys input.

really just looking for further verification to spend the extra +/-400 for the tnt.

thanks for any input.

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post #2 of 10 Old 03-22-2017, 12:02 PM
RedJeepster1
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Any reason you haven't considered Clayton? That's the route I am going. No personal experience with a specific kit but the guys in my 4wd club that have custom 3 link front's have zero complaints and their Jeeps drive amazing. The two I am specifically thinking of are TJ's but essentially the same with regards to front suspension and ride and handling.

My reasoning for wanting to go with Clayton is the removable center section and the fact that I can. raise or lower it depending on my needs.

If you are not planning to do any hard core offroad stuff, it may be worth your time to bolt your contol arm drop brackets and see how much the ride improves. I have heard only good things about them, and although they stick down a lot farther, they are so close to your tire that it doesn't cause as big of a clearance issue as you would think. If you don't like it, just unbolt them and go on with your current plans. You have them at this point, might as well give them a try.

88 YJ with a 4.6l stroker, AX-15, NP231, 2.5" lift, 4.10's and 33's
2000 XJ w/ 350k+, AW4, NP231, Locked Rear, HD Crown Leafs, trimmed to fit 33's
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post #3 of 10 Old 03-23-2017, 05:00 PM
bluejunior
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Honeslty on an XJ I don't think there's much advantage to the 4-link vs a 3-link beside the reduntant link. The issue there is even if you box it in the passenger side UCA the 3-links delete is by far weaker than the cast UCA mount on the pumpkin.

The 3 link will also bind a little less on road. CavFab or a similar design would be my first choice if I had the budget, rather than a radius arm like the IRO "3-link" or TNT or what have you.

Lifted, Locked, Stiffened

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post #4 of 10 Old 03-25-2017, 02:17 AM
un4gvn1
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IRO Critical Path

Removable center section (3 piece crossmember), much cheaper than most others, flexes like a very dirty girl. No, it's not a "true" 3-link (actually a modified radius arm & single lower) but works awesome.

I've seen lots of folks complain about the caster adjuster, but usually someone who heard about how weak it is from "someone". I've only put a few serious rock trips on mine so far, but have no complaints. I know a few others who have wheeled the crap out of theirs with no issues, so there is that.

The lower price is nice also.

'88, 6" lift, 37's on beadlocks, homebrew bumpers, sliders & roof rack, lockers, some other stuff...

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post #5 of 10 Old 03-27-2017, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
jrodmk2
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^^^ I did look at that setup also which was my first thought of getting a long-arm setup. I do like the way that it seems to be pretty close to the unibody rail. I see that yours has been holding up decent it seems. i made a couple calls and some emails and even the tnt(from them) sits at 3" below the unibody rail.

un4gvn1 -could you measure the lowest part of the crossmember and the arm mount below the unibody rail?

all info is appreciated.
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-28-2017, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
jrodmk2
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can any clayton users comment on turning radius?
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-28-2017, 01:25 PM
un4gvn1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrodmk2 View Post
^^^ I did look at that setup also which was my first thought of getting a long-arm setup. I do like the way that it seems to be pretty close to the unibody rail. I see that yours has been holding up decent it seems. i made a couple calls and some emails and even the tnt(from them) sits at 3" below the unibody rail.

un4gvn1 -could you measure the lowest part of the crossmember and the arm mount below the unibody rail?

all info is appreciated.

Reaching under with a tape measure it looks to be 2" below whatever you mount it to (frame rail or stiffener).

I tried to attach a pic, but the file upload on the forum seems to be broken, 22-23% then it stalls.

'88, 6" lift, 37's on beadlocks, homebrew bumpers, sliders & roof rack, lockers, some other stuff...

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post #8 of 10 Old 03-29-2017, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
jrodmk2
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^^^thank-you!!^^^
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post #9 of 10 Old 03-29-2017, 10:10 AM
RedJeepster1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrodmk2 View Post
can any clayton users comment on turning radius?
Give them a call, they are pretty helpful on the phone. I plan to run their cross member but I don't have it yet as I am moving this weekend and haven't bought any Jeep parts in like 2 months so it's less stuff to move. I hope to be ordering it in like 2 weeks. In the mean time, I would just give Clayton a call.

88 YJ with a 4.6l stroker, AX-15, NP231, 2.5" lift, 4.10's and 33's
2000 XJ w/ 350k+, AW4, NP231, Locked Rear, HD Crown Leafs, trimmed to fit 33's
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-31-2017, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
jrodmk2
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Called clayton today. looks like I need a ~3.75 BS on a 8.5 wheel to "just" work lock to lock. I have a 9" wheel with 4.5 BS. rub a dub-rub....
I would rather not adjust the steering stops due to using the tight radius everyday on my way to work and on the weekends around trees... haha
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