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Unread 08-18-2012, 05:59 PM   #331
Kevin108
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2000 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Portsmouth, VA
Posts: 3,782
I've had problems with my dash losing connection before and giving the NO BUS error. I've tried several methods but nothing seems to last for long. What one guy did was to eliminate the cartridge-style connectors and go to small spade connectors. I'm not against doing that but DAMN it's a lot of wires. I hit everything again with some contact cleaner and made some shims to force the connectors forward, hoping for a better connection. We'll see what happens.



*Update*

As of Dec 2012, I have removed these shims. If anything, they seemed to make things worse.

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Unread 09-08-2012, 12:05 PM   #332
Kevin108
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Location: Portsmouth, VA
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Today my front tires were a little low so I added air to them. Extreme new mod!
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Unread 12-09-2012, 08:43 PM   #333
Kevin108
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Okay, getting back to this heap. Tomorrow I'm ordering an adjustable track bar. I was going for the Rough Country because it was cheaper until I realized the IRO is solid stock for $10 more. Also, as soon as Treadwright has them in stock, I'll be ordering two more of their MT/R clones.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 07:52 AM   #334
Kevin108
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I'm about to start the installation of my Iron Rock Offroad adjustable track bar. Everything came boxed up tight and wrapped in foam and plastic. I caught their Christmas special and it shipped free via FedEx. Last night I got everything unboxed and opened up. I had a few minutes of prep to do as a while back my track bar had come loose and wallowed out the mount. To fix it, I drilled it out to 1/2" and replaced the bolt. To make the new components work, I had to drill out the bushing sleeve to 1/2". That took a minute or so in a vise with some sharp drill bits. I'll update with some more pics when I'm done.

(Yes, I know the bar is upside down! lol I just wanted it stable for the picture.)
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Unread 12-17-2012, 08:41 PM   #335
Kevin108
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I got sidetracked on the track bar. Ended up cleaning for two days. I did a side job last month for a guy where I replaced the handrail around his porch. I went to take a sample spindle to match the paint color and ended up ripping the whole porch to pieces and bringing home in my XJ. I had fully intended to use my truck for this but I just went with it.



In the end, I had rotten wood crumbs and latex paint chips all over the interior, not to mention sawdust, tools and scraps. I started off emptying everything out.



In the process, I found my stock jack and thought I'd see if it still worked with 31s. Nope. Bye!



That left a bracket under the seat I didn't need anymore. Bye!



Then I had a hole in the carpet and padding I didn't need. Seemed like a good home for an Altoids tin full of spare fuses.



Epic times were had with a ShopVac and I organized my under-seat storage in a more logical fashion.



Then it was time to repack the pile and discover the orange box is so heavy because at some point I added a spare starter to my kit.



Cleaning the back out was a relatively quick affair compared to the front because of the Isuzu mat I dug out of the garbage and trimmed to fit.



Organized, secured and rolling again.
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Unread 12-18-2012, 10:48 PM   #336
Kevin108
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I finally got around to installing my Iron Rock Offroad track bar tonight. Thought I'd share some notes.


This is the mangled bushing from my stock track bar. Note how thin the walls of the sleeve are. The bolt had wallowed out in the mount twice so I'd wound up drilling everything out to " to take up the slack.
(Image forthcoming.)


Because of this, I had to start off with a modification to the IRO part. It too is now drilled out to " but you can see they give you a much thicker-walled sleeve to work with.



This is the new track bar fully assembled. Yes, the two ends are 180 out. No, that's not how it was mounted.



This is the axle on the passenger side. You can see the big " bolt here along with my "massaged" track bar mount.



The other end you'll be working with is a little steel cave on the drivers side that makes easy extraction of the cotter pin impossible. Using an extendable mirror let me see what the hell was going on. I ended up breaking the ends off the pin and using a 2' breaker bar to turn the nut off.



After removing the old track bar, I shook the Jeep back and forth from both sides to let it settle into its natural center. It took a few tries to get the length just right on the track bar but the adjustments were easy to make. The FSM calls for 40 ft lbs on the axle mount bolt and 60 ft lbs on the ball stud. Because of my previous issues with the axle mount and larger bolt, I torqued both to 60 ft lbs.



I will have to get an alignment as my steering wheel is at about 2 o'clock when going straight. Handling felt normal on the ride home. After the alignment, I'll again traverse the two spots that have consistently given me death wobble. I'll report back shortly.
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Unread 12-29-2012, 05:56 AM   #337
Kevin108
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Even after installing the SYE, I was still getting some driveline vibrations, so I began to look into it and found that changing to a double-cardan shaft should include changing the angle of the pinion yoke as well.




I used a cheap magnetic angle finder. The driveshaft is easy enough.



Ideally you disconnect the rear driveshaft and rotate the yoke to a vertical arrangement and then measure the angle from there. I didn't feel like all that, so I took two identical sockets and put them on each strap bolt, which brought a flat plane out from the u-joint enough for me to use the angle finder with driveshaft in place.



After getting both angles, it was a simple matter of arithmetic. See http://www.wolferacecraft.com/pinionangle.aspx for more info.
With my 3" lift, a 4 shim should fix me up. I sourced a pair from BDS for around $20.



I got started a couple nights ago. The shims went in no problem but while I was on the creeper I found my rear brake line was rusted all to hell plus leaks from my front pinion seal and the pressure hose on my power steering pump. Going to address those this weekend.
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Unread 12-30-2012, 01:46 PM   #338
Kevin108
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Got the YJ hose installed and the front section of the original brake line flared and ready to go. Just got a fresh piece of hard line to replace the run from the front fender to the rear hose. Taking a lunch break.

Comparing the YJ line with the stock XJ line - 3-1/8" longer
forumrunner_20121230_154605.jpg
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Unread 12-31-2012, 11:10 AM   #339
Luke95
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Nice build I like were its going!
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Unread 12-31-2012, 03:12 PM   #340
Kevin108
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Thanks! I'm ordering tires later this week. A set of rock sliders and that's all the plans I have for it as of right now.

(I might look into a WJ rear disc swap, poor man's high steer, or a Detours Tailbone down the road but all have zero priority.)
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Unread 01-13-2013, 08:51 PM   #341
Kevin108
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I can't recall exactly what for but I recently removed my center console when doing some cleaning. I'd noticed for some time the rear section of the center console was floppy but hadn't paid it much mind. When I got the console out, I found the lousy plastic mount in multiple pieces. I don't remember the exact price but the OEM replacement, bound to end up in the same condition, was over $100.



I pulled it out and stared at it for a few days until happened into Lowes and inspiration hit. I found these straps in the lumber section with the hurricane clips. I used one, cut in half, for this entire project.



To start with, I put them in a vise and added a simple 90 bend.



If you've never had your center console mount out before, it's pretty simple. (I'll add a photo below later.) First, assuming you have an AW4, grab the shifter handle and pull straight up with considerable force. Do not twist the handle as it will break internal components. With it removed, pop off the trim panel with the gear selection indicator. There's two wires going to a light for it you'll have to unplug. Next, remove the trim panel for the transfer case shifter. It too has a light that will have to be unplugged. Inside these openings you'll find two screws that secure the center console to the shifter mounts. Remove both. Empty out your center console and inside you'll find two screws. Remove them as well. The console should now be free from the floor. To remove it, pull the emergency brake all the way up and slide the console towards the back seat while lifting the back of the console up towards the roof. Take your time as you'll have to work around the 3 levers to finally remove the console. After that, slide out the ductwork that runs to the rear seat and you'll find things looking more like the pictures that follow.

With what remained of the OEM mount reinstalled, I began aligning the new brackets.



I ended up fitting the broken original legs back in place to align a hole in my metal straps with the old screw hole.



When the new brackets were aligned, I peeled back the carpet as best I could and used self-tapping screws to fasten them to the floor. I used two screws per leg.



I grabbed some screws from my collection and tapped the holes in the brackets to fit.



The end result was a center console able to move just enough as to not break itself but otherwise securely mounted to the floor.



I've also become aware of some USA-made metal replacements for $55. They seem very nice, although most of you probably have enough change in your center console to fix your mount with my cheapskate method. If you're interested in a more bolt-in option, you can find them at http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f74/199...racket-158249/
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Unread 01-17-2013, 12:44 PM   #342
Kevin108
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On the way now to get these installed.


forumrunner_20130117_144419.jpg
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Unread 01-17-2013, 01:44 PM   #343
Luke95
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Size?
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Unread 01-18-2013, 06:16 PM   #344
Kevin108
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Location: Portsmouth, VA
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31x10.50-15s, Treadwright Guard Dogs

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Unread 01-19-2013, 07:19 AM   #345
VegasGT
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1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Location: Leitchfield, KY
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Looking good!!
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