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Unread 12-16-2010, 09:23 PM   #166
mosescase
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin108 View Post
This is how I did my cowl snorkel, based very closely on srmitchell's thread http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/m...norkel-727684/

Frankly, I was intimidated by piecing together a solid tube out of PVC. My work with PVC is exceedingly limited and all the geometry seemed overly complicated, so I opted to use a universal intake tube based on a TV commercial I remember as a kid for a product which I think was called "Flex Jars." I got the tube from my local AutoZone for $20. AutoZone.com | Air Duct Hose | Black air ducting



I removed the air box, cleaned it up and used the tube to get a rough idea of where it would need to go. I marked and drilled a small hole in the center of where I wanted to place the tube.



I cut a strip of plastic and drilled two small holes in it 1" apart as my template for the hole.



I used the drill bit as a hub and drew the circle I would cut with.



I have a pneumatic trim saw I'd planned to use but my compressor is at my parents' place so I used what I had on hand, which was a simple coping.



I drilled a " hole as a starting point and reassembled the coping saw with the blade inside the hole.



I proceeded to cut out the air box with the coping saw. When done, I used a Dremel with a sanding wheel to smooth the edges.



I again used the tube to determine a rough placement and used my template to draw the circle which I would cut out.



This is the hole one everything was cut out. It turned out quite ragged as I used a Dremel with small cut off wheels. I smoothed it out with a grinding wheel before installing the tube but I was excited the hole was done and forgot to take a picture.



I mounted the tube up as high as a could so that the base of the cowl would act as a dam to keep water from entering the intake tube.



As srmitchell had warned me, this did result in the tube making contact with a rib on the hood but since I used a flexible plastic tube, I don't think it will be a problem.



And much of my reasoning behind adding this mod to my relatively stock rig is because a photo I saw of one of my fellow club members with a significantly bigger XJ than me in a water crossing I know I'll be facing soon.



I used OSI Quad, which is a heavy duty construction adhesive and a great caulk, to seal things up. I cut a block of Trex composite deck board 3"x2-1/8" to fill the factory intake hole. I painted the outside of it black for the sake of color uniformity.



I positioned the block and pre-drilled holes for 4 screws to hold it in place, not that they'll be needed once the Quad cures. I then removed the block, caulked along the opening, reinstalled the block and screwed in the screws. I then caulked in all the factory drain holes as well.



I inserted my tube and caulked the outside well and the inside as best I could.



I clamped it in place to work on it and left it sitting to dry overnight.



This is where the tube enters the cowl.



The tube came with two oversized sleeves to finish off the ends. I trimmed one today and put it inside the cowl as a retainer. The other will go inside the airbox.
so yours sits in side it dosnt come out the top like the hummer mod does ????

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Unread 12-19-2010, 09:10 PM   #167
Kevin108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mosescase View Post
so yours sits in side it dosnt come out the top like the hummer mod does ????
Correct. Penetrating the exterior cowl is unnecessary as half of it is vented anyway.

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Unread 12-19-2010, 09:33 PM   #168
Kevin108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCObray View Post
That's a pretty neat mod you did on the rear reverse lights. I still have yet to figure out all the wiring, just gives me one huge headache. Nice XJ
What are you trying to do with yours?
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Unread 12-19-2010, 10:13 PM   #169
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Originally Posted by Kevin108 View Post
What are you trying to do with yours?
Just wiring in general. I would like to learn, such as installing a stereo, doing a overhead console, hooking up Hella's/KC, etc.
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Unread 12-19-2010, 10:37 PM   #170
Kevin108
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I know I've haphazardly posted a few pics of other rigs with parts I plan to install on mine but I thought I'd take the time to outline stage 2 of my build. It'll let me organize what I want and plan a budget and you guys can egg me on. A little background: when I bought my XJ, all I planned to do was to install a rear hitch, transmission cooler and rear locker. I finished stage 1 in January or so of this year.

Now here we are with 21 days left in the rest of the year. I've been blessed with a fair amount of side work so this is the golden opportunity for me to put some money into my Jeep without taking any away from the household. And so begins stage 2.

The first thing I want to address is my sagging rear springs. Aside from a fullsize spare in the factory location, I consistently carry some hand tools and other goodies that, while small, are mostly metal and put a fair load on the springs continuously. I also usually have a cooler full of ice, drinks and food that I have lunch out of while at work. This load would probably even put a damper on new springs but with mine in the shape they are, it's even more noticeable. I'm planning on a bastard pack built with additional leaves from another stock XJ leaf pack. I'm not ready to lift yet and I've never been into a spring pack before so I'm looking forward to the learning experience as much as the repair. Parts: junkyard spring packs, new center pins, new spring clamps. I'm still lacking center pins. I've been trying to find them nearby with no success. I know where I can get them but I'm searching on what I call "my side of the water" because getting through the tunnel to Norfolk and dealing with all of that traffic sucks ***. There has to be a source by me! *Update* A buddy works nearby our inconvenient local driveline shop. He picked up new center pins for me. I built my bastard pack 9-24-11. In the process, I had to source some longer u-bolts as well. COMPLETED. COST: $92.94

It's possible that while I'm in the junkyard grabbing springs that I'll find a gas tank skid but I don't consider it likely. If I can find one used, I will certainly grab it but I'm not counting on that at all. Obviously I don't have a hardcore rig and don't need the strongest gas tank skid out there. I probably don't need one at all but the peace of mind is worth the part price to me. From shopping around, the cheapest I've found was the Tomken skid from Quadratec. Parts: gas tank skid. Cost: $20 - $215. COMPLETED. COST: $27.16

I'd like a basic set of rock sliders. Again, this not being a hardcore rig, cheaper is better. AJ's Offroad Amor seems to be the best buy right now although I will shop some more on this part. Parts: Standard rock rails. COMPLETED. Cost: $275

To round out stage 2, I'd also like to get a Hi-Lift jack and some accessories to facilitate winching. Parts: jack, off-road kit. Cost: $120.
COMPLETED. COST: FREE, REMOVED ITEMS FROM MY TRUCK

*Updates*

Stage 2 also came to include a CB. I shopped the components individually, and installed and tuned it with the help of a friend and a family-sourced SWR meter. COMPLETED. COST: $77.68

Stage 2 received a major setback as I had to replace my engine. The camshaft was walking around in my original engine, ruining itself, the cam bearings and the camshaft synchronzier. COMPLETED. COST: $700
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Unread 12-19-2010, 11:07 PM   #171
Kevin108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCObray View Post
Just wiring in general. I would like to learn, such as installing a stereo, doing a overhead console, hooking up Hella's/KC, etc.
The best way to learn is to do. I don't do enough wiring to stay particularly sharp with it. Every time I do some it's like starting over again, except for having strippers and a soldering iron in my toolbox already. These are cheap parts. The strippers I found on clearance at Walmart. Amazon.com: QUICK STRIP 2202 SELF ADJUSTING WIRE STRIPPER: Electronics The soldering iron, solder and heat shrink tubing I use all come from my local Lowe's.

If you've never soldered, try to track down some junk wires. You can cut an old lamp cord in two if need be. Start with something. Wear some kind of eye protection. Sometimes the solder sort of sizzles when it gets hot and can shoot off dabs of itself.

After you've played with soldering some, consider ordering a stereo from Crutchfield. They include incredible documentation that would guide all but the most inept noobs through the installation process. I have been incredibly impressed with them every time I've ordered something. Crutchfield has the wiring harnesses you need to attach your factory stuff to your new radio. It would be an affordable and fun first job that you would really get something out of.

The overhead console would be more difficult because you have to remove the headliner. Wiring it up shouldn't be hard at all. There are likely factory connectors for it under the headliner.

Wiring up offroad lights are the simplest project on your list. It takes more to mount them than to wire them. Wiring them up can be as simple as running one hot wire from the battery terminal to a switch in the cab and then back to the lights.

I do things differently than most of the guys here. I feel like relays are just one more part to go bad and make something not work. I like to use proper-sized wiring and quality switches and to keep things simple.

Let me know if I can help you with anything. Otherwise, good luck!
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Unread 12-22-2010, 11:13 PM   #172
Kevin108
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Ordered a CB today. UnidenDirect - Compact Professional Mobile CB Radio

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Unread 12-27-2010, 10:50 PM   #173
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Ordered a new oil pressure sending unit from Rock Auto today. I went to two different local stores, both showing the in their inventory, and neither one had it on the shelf. I wound up saving $20 ordering it so that sort of evens out the gas I wasted trying to get it around here.
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Unread 01-06-2011, 08:02 PM   #174
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I'll be finishing up my CB installation this weekend. I need to get pics up.
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Unread 01-10-2011, 10:18 PM   #175
Kevin108
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This should have been posted on Saturday, 1-8-11 but it's happening now.

I won an auction for a stock Grand Cherokee gas tank skid for 1 last week (with shipping it was $27.16) and it showed up Saturday in fine condition. I'll install it maybe this weekend.



Saturday was also when me and my buddy Ray (willet over at fullsizebronco.com) finished up my CB installation. He is fresh off a full body swap on his white OJ Bronco so he's well practiced with interior trim panels. An extra set of hands is always of good use but having someone more capable than myself doing the stuff inside was a huge help. I'm very fortunate to have the friends I do as we all have 4x4s and are reasonably gifted when it comes to turning wrenches. Anyway...


I had already mounted the radio between the visors with some aluminum flat stock I had. I made it end flush with the visor clips and it provides a very simple and sturdy mount for the small, lightweight radio I chose. Despite his gifts with plastic trim, Ray was no so talented at leaving my rearview mirror attached but that's an easy fix and it not being there gave us more room to work so I'm calling it good.



Unless I'm on the trail, the mic will be in the center console. The power and antenna wires tucked up easily and cleanly into the headliner and the tint gradient at the top of the windshield almost makes the radio invisible from outside. Not pictured but for power I ran the wire down the passenger side A-pillar, underneath the dash and spliced into the passenger side 12v plug.




I had purchased a Firestik SS-174 no-drill fender mount that attaches to a stock fender bolt and protrudes between the hood and the fender but the tall antenna up front looked out of place. The antenna is a Firestik FS3 mounted on a Firestik SS-3M spring. It was very easy to assemble and tune. I borrowed a SWR meter from my brother in law's grandpa and tuned to just under 2, averaged out between 1 and 40.



I made my own interpretation of a rear mount I've seen a few times here. Usually what I've seen was just some angle iron bolted over the tail light but I like radiuses and working with aluminum.



I'll fab something more substantial at a later date. I've also secured the coax at several points. The coax was from Firestik as well. It runs inside through the plastic grommet, goes up the rear pillar, along the drivers side ceiling trim and behind the drivers A-pillar into the headliner. I left all the slack of the 18' coax at the rear so I have plenty of adjustment for the next mount I make.




This was my first experience with CBs and the parts I bought and everything I did was based on what I'd read at http://firestik.com I'm very happy with how it turned out. What I ended up with was similar to the kit Quadratec sells for $140 but I got better quality components plus a spring for about half the price by building the kit myself through eBay. Bear in mind the radio and antenna mounts, installation and tuning were free but I've only got $77.68 into this setup.

I just wish everything I did to my Jeep was as cheap as the skid plate and CB have turned out to be!
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Unread 01-16-2011, 10:01 PM   #176
Kevin108
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I backed into the garage late this morning not knowing what lay ahead of me



I dropped the rear bumper to make dealing with the bolts easier and to finally secure the wires for my auxiliary reverse lights.



I test fit my hitch around the skid.



It took a few tries to figure out the best way to use my third hand. The skid didn't go up for the last time until after dark.



I had to trim for the hitch and wallow out a few holes to make lining the bolts up possible.



The driver side frame rail had bolts hanging down that you could push up into the frame and lose.



The passenger side frame rail has a plate with nuts welded to it floated around inside the boxed frame because I've previously broken the rivets.



It was a complete ***** but with Dad's help I finally lined up 8 bolts and 24 holes at one time for a successful installation.



And now the gas tank is ready for the rocks. The tail pipe rattles against the new skid plate so some exhaust modifications are going to be necessary. I'll probably add a Dynomax Super Turbo at that point.
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Unread 01-16-2011, 10:10 PM   #177
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Nice work, I planned to do that cowl air intake mod last summer but just never got around to doing it. Probably will end up doing it this spring.
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[I][B]My Build Thread:[/B][/I][url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177/broke-kid-build-96-xj-1007038/[/url]

[B][I]New Mexico Driving Rules...[/I][/B][LIST][*]As a general rule, the vehicle most in need of a significant amount of bodywork (for which the driver is most likely uninsured) always has the right of way.[*]Never use directional signals when changing lanes. They only serve to give away your next move, causing most NM drivers to speed up and not let you in. In fact, use of directional signals within most large NM city limits is actual illegal.[*]NM law states that at least 50% of all paved surfaces within the state must be under construction at any one time. In all construction zones, at least half of the available lanes must be closed, regardless of whether any actual construction is be accomplished or not. Construction signs shall be regularly repositioned in order to warn drivers about upcoming lane closures immediately after they pass the last exit before traffic backups.
[*]Driving through constructions zones with upcoming lane closures is a popular game in NM. Its called the "speed up and pass as many cars as you can, then see how close to the lane closure you can squeeze back into traffic before hitting any of the orange construction barrels" game.[/LIST]
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Unread 01-17-2011, 07:52 AM   #178
jeepski89
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nice find on the gas tank skid! still need to find one for my jeep its the only one i need..
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Unread 01-17-2011, 08:51 AM   #179
Kevin108
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http://stores.ebay.com/alljeepparts401 is where mine came from. Be careful about hagling over prices with him though. I got two messages out of him before he blocked me and I had to get "my dad" to bid on one of the items for me.
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Unread 01-18-2011, 09:54 PM   #180
Kevin108
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I talked to a local exhaust shop today. Looks like if I provide the muffler, they'll install it and make me a custom tail pipe for about $50.
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