Iron Rock VS. RE, BDS,.....etc - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 58 Old 06-09-2010, 08:12 PM
Tony89
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I'll second what a lot of people here are saying. 8" lift is overkill. Even with that much lift, you are going to have to trim for 35s. So if you are going to have to trim anyway, might as well stick with a smaller, much more stable lift. Trim it and bumpstop accordingly.

A very wise man once told me it would be way smarter to be reasonable your first time around. Especially if you have little to no offroad experience. A huge lift, with huge tires can get a novice into a lot of trouble quickly. I've also learned in the little time that I've spent in this hobby that experience, driving, gearing, and lockers will get you through a lot more than a big lift and big tires.


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post #32 of 58 Old 06-09-2010, 08:22 PM
Hurdxj
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Okay so would a 6.5 on 34's be a pretty stable setup?

1993 XJ 4.5 RC lift
30x9.5 Cooper Discoverer STT's
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post #33 of 58 Old 06-09-2010, 10:00 PM
ragincajun367
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i say you go 6.5 inch lift with 33's. great look and with a couple hockey pucks youll never have to worry about the fenders. but if you have more money than sense.......
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post #34 of 58 Old 06-09-2010, 10:01 PM
dhardman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurdxj View Post
Okay so would a 6.5 on 34's be a pretty stable setup?
you could fit 34's on 4-5" of lift pretty easily with minor trimming and proper bumpstopping. even 35's are do-able with the right trimming and bumpstopping on 4-5". the question is; are you going to be using this on the trail or mainly for looks? theres an old saying, looks good, functions good, cheap. pick two. that's what you're inevitably going to have to decide. either have a mall crawler that looks badass but isnt too capable off road, or have a slightly less badass looking rig but is VERY functional off road. were not trying to force you into a setup or whatnot, just giving you the pro's and con's of each. hope this was helpful.
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post #35 of 58 Old 06-09-2010, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
Adrian007
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Well the whole point of this thread was just to find out if IRO was quality, and from the reply's it sounds like its good stuff. But anyway I've made up my mind.

I'm going with the IRO 6.5" kit with iceland flares and 35's AND drive shaft, slip yoke, etc.
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post #36 of 58 Old 06-09-2010, 11:59 PM
GregB_00XJ
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and gears...

Wont a re-gear of the front and rear set him (you) back like at least a couple grand? Also, what front diff do you have, I assume a HP D30 with an 8.25 rear right (should have read your specs BEFORE posting)? What about lockers too... for that much tire I would also assume that lockers are going to be required if not recommended?

I have a little XJ (3.5 front/4.5 ish rear on 31 AT's) so this is all from what I have read not from experience? I don't mean to sound like I am questioning your plan, just curiosity really.

To the OP, sounds like you are in an enviable position man, to be able to pop for all that for your rig. Sounds like you have done your research too! Looking forward to the before and after pics!

Oh and a fellow islander too.

2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic XJ - 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD 5.7L WK - CDN M101 1/4 Ton Trailer


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Last edited by GregB_00XJ; 06-10-2010 at 12:01 AM. Reason: edit... read specs
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post #37 of 58 Old 06-10-2010, 12:14 AM
vincepru
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hmm if you really want 8" of lift, i would first get the TNT long arm kit, then buy 8" springs from wherever you want. i have the RE 5.5 LA and personally i wish that i would have sacked up and gotten the tnt kit, so much more clearance than the RE
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post #38 of 58 Old 06-10-2010, 12:26 AM
RockRodHooligan
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I know several guys with TJs running 35"s on D30s, some LP, some HP, all of them locked, and only one of them with chromo shafts(LP super 30, switching to HP) and haven't really seen them have too many issues with breakage(with the exception of the LP Super 30, he's had lots), an occasional popped u-joint cap but thats it.

Regear could cost upwards of $1500 depending on where you take it, 4 Wheel Parts charges about that, gears with master installs included(they won't reuse old bearings), but I have found shops that will do it for $200 per axle plus gears. Had a buddy who got his crate JK 44s geared for $700, but he reused the bearings since they didn't have any miles on them.

96 XJ:Parking lot Pre-Runner

89 MJ: Project: Ground up - Sold
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***** inches...
Good god man. Indyorv :rofl: d**k and fart jokes. :rofl:
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post #39 of 58 Old 06-10-2010, 12:27 AM
RockRodHooligan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vincepru View Post
hmm if you really want 8" of lift, i would first get the TNT long arm kit, then buy 8" springs from wherever you want. i have the RE 5.5 LA and personally i wish that i would have sacked up and gotten the tnt kit, so much more clearance than the RE
TNT uses RE springs in their kits......

96 XJ:Parking lot Pre-Runner

89 MJ: Project: Ground up - Sold
01 XJ: Project: Silverback - Totaled

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***** inches...
Good god man. Indyorv :rofl: d**k and fart jokes. :rofl:
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post #40 of 58 Old 06-10-2010, 04:09 AM
RoyalXJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurdxj View Post
Ive been looking into the IRO 8" too on 36x12.5's with some bushwackers.
So you guys are thinkin thats too tall of a setup?
you better better be willing to dump lots of money into everything else before going with 36s
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post #41 of 58 Old 06-10-2010, 08:40 AM
GregB_00XJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrod_hooligan View Post
I know several guys with TJs running 35"s on D30s, some LP, some HP, all of them locked, and only one of them with chromo shafts(LP super 30, switching to HP) and haven't really seen them have too many issues with breakage(with the exception of the LP Super 30, he's had lots), an occasional popped u-joint cap but thats it.

Regear could cost upwards of $1500 depending on where you take it, 4 Wheel Parts charges about that, gears with master installs included(they won't reuse old bearings), but I have found shops that will do it for $200 per axle plus gears. Had a buddy who got his crate JK 44s geared for $700, but he reused the bearings since they didn't have any miles on them.
Sounds about right.

I figured that with 35's the axles would be ok, but the gearing would be the suck. Mine is stock with 3.55, ok all around, but I sure feel the bigger tires off the line. That is on 31's, I can only imagine another 4+ inched of tire, hitting the accelerator would be like stepping on a marshmallow.

2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic XJ - 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD 5.7L WK - CDN M101 1/4 Ton Trailer


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post #42 of 58 Old 06-10-2010, 07:23 PM
RoyalXJ
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35s youre gonna need to build that front axle up if you plan on wheeling it. that lp30 isnt worth keeping if you wanna wheel. should definitely upgrade your steering and brakes. as for gears 4:56s feel good but 4:88 feel better. only problem with 4:88s is the pinion gear is really small and if you plan on locking the front id go with a full case locker. 35s cost big money to run. i found that out the hard way.
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post #43 of 58 Old 06-10-2010, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
Adrian007
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I have an HP D30
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post #44 of 58 Old 06-10-2010, 07:38 PM
RoyalXJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian007 View Post
I have an HP D30
my bad i was talking about GregB_00XJ
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post #45 of 58 Old 06-10-2010, 10:22 PM
GregB_00XJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyalXJ View Post
my bad i was talking about GregB_00XJ
Mine is basically where it is going to stay, 31" and basically stock-ish drive-train. I agree, LP D30 is probably not the stoutest axle out there, but for what I do to mine it will be fine. I am just stoked on getting my AA SYE installed...got some minor vibes still.

To the OP, still stoked on the build, you should start a build thread as soon as you start buying bits.

Good thread.

2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic XJ - 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD 5.7L WK - CDN M101 1/4 Ton Trailer


____=__=
l l ,[_____],
l---- L -[]lllllll[]-

()_) ()_)--o-)_)
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