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Unread 02-18-2013, 06:37 PM   #751
Luke95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibjeepin95

Play with some Legos lol. Swamper radials are fine, but honestly any M/T aired down is good lol. Buy something that wears good.
I play with Cnc lathes when I'm bored.....
Your defiantly going to nac fest?
You'll get to laugh at my sorry as-s
33 swampers or
Mtz choices
Seriously who gives a retard a choice?

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Unread 02-18-2013, 06:38 PM   #752
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Originally Posted by 1990JEEPXJ View Post
My question is do you EVAR plan on going higher? If there is any possibility that you may, then I say 3-link the front. What will it harm you to do it? Probably be just about the same cost as doing all new Johnny joints and arms. Plus it will allow you to go higher if you ever want to. That's just my .02

And the cheap coils being fine only depends on wheeling style. I don't want cheapo coils with poor spring rate and potential to sag quickly. I want to do go fast stuff and I don't dd mine so I don't care if it rides stiff. I have a set of 12" 7100's waiting to go on with 360/80 valving
If he plans to go higher why build a custom suspension around his current ride height? Absolutely assbackwards, do it all at once and do it right, or don't do it at all. No reason not to just run SA's for now, then sell them if they suck.
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Unread 02-18-2013, 07:00 PM   #753
1990JEEPXJ
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Exactly. Why mess with custom short arms in the factory mounts if he plans on going higher and shorts arms like that won't be sufficient? A mid arm 3-link will work at his height and plenty higher. How is that bass ackwards again? It's building for the possible future. I guess I fail for not seeing making a 3-link as doing it once and doing it right.
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Unread 02-18-2013, 07:10 PM   #754
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Originally Posted by 1990JEEPXJ View Post
Exactly. Why mess with custom short arms in the factory mounts if he plans on going higher and shorts arms like that won't be sufficient? A mid arm 3-link will work at his height and plenty higher. How is that bass ackwards again? It's building for the possible future. I guess I fail for not seeing making a 3-link as doing it once and doing it right.
He's talking about buying Rokmen arms, not building custom ones.

If he built a 3link to have nice flat angles, both the arms and trackbar/draglink, at his ride height, they would all change when he jumped up to 4" or higher, just like when you lift any rig, which would defeat the purpose of building a well performing suspension. I see what you're trying to say, and building some things for the future is a good idea, but not a suspension system that you plan to alter the height of.

Also, I don't remember Colton saying he wanted to go higher, so why plan for that?
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Unread 02-18-2013, 07:24 PM   #755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTeunuch View Post
He's talking about buying Rokmen arms, not building custom ones.

If he built a 3link to have nice flat angles, both the arms and trackbar/draglink, at his ride height, they would all change when he jumped up to 4" or higher, just like when you lift any rig, which would defeat the purpose of building a well performing suspension. I see what you're trying to say, and building some things for the future is a good idea, but not a suspension system that you plan to alter the height of.

Also, I don't remember Colton saying he wanted to go higher, so why plan for that?
Yeah, kinda what I was thinking. I really have no plans to go taller. At least not on these axles. If I run another set of axles, I won't go more than 37's, so my height won't go up other than for the reason of new spring mounts. Like Patrick said, if I get tired of short arms, I'll sell them to fund whatever I do next. But until I'm done with school, HOPEFULLY the only things I'm going to do besides short arms are shackle relocations, 5100's, gears, a truss for the 30, and prothanes.

Anyways, I'm fairly happy with my suspension, other than the junk arms and joints. Well, what ever you want to call the stock junk and RE ****.
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Unread 02-18-2013, 07:32 PM   #756
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Shackle relocators? I thought you were going slider boxes?

What are you planning for gears? Custom truss, or the Artec one?

And the Prothanes/Bilsteins are so worth the $$$, my **** rides like a dream compared to my old Jeeps.
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Unread 02-18-2013, 07:36 PM   #757
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Originally Posted by CTeunuch View Post
Shackle relocators? I thought you were going slider boxes?

What are you planning for gears? Custom truss, or the Artec one?

And the Prothanes/Bilsteins are so worth the $$$, my **** rides like a dream compared to my old Jeeps.
I was, until my buddy offered me his brand new HD relocations for $75.

Gears will be 4.88's. The truss will be either custom or maybe Ballistic. What size boxed steel did you use on yours? I got a **** pile of 2x3 1/4" laying around...

I'll have my front 5100's tomorrow.
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Unread 02-18-2013, 07:36 PM   #758
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Unread 02-18-2013, 08:05 PM   #759
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Originally Posted by ibjeepin95 View Post
I was, until my buddy offered me his brand new HD relocations for $75.

Gears will be 4.88's. The truss will be either custom or maybe Ballistic. What size boxed steel did you use on yours? I got a **** pile of 2x3 1/4" laying around...

I'll have my front 5100's tomorrow.
Can't pass up a good deal. Going to change anything to keep the height the same?

I think I used 3x6x1/4", but I can't remember exactly. It was whatever I got for free from the welder down the street. I can measure it tomorrow if you want, but that 2x3 will probably work to keep it straight and support the UCA mount. Going to gusset the C's while you're at it?
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Unread 02-18-2013, 08:10 PM   #760
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Originally Posted by CTeunuch View Post
Can't pass up a good deal. Going to change anything to keep the height the same?

I think I used 3x6x1/4", but I can't remember exactly. It was whatever I got for free from the welder down the street. I can measure it tomorrow if you want, but that 2x3 will probably work to keep it straight and support the UCA mount. Going to gusset the C's while you're at it?
Nah, I actually plan to raise the *** end up a little. I could use a tit bit more uptravel, and the Jeep seems to sit a bit low in the rear anyways. It will be less than an 1" gain, though.

Yeah, I'll gusset the C's too. I want to sky drive a little more
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Unread 02-18-2013, 08:35 PM   #761
1990JEEPXJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibjeepin95

Nah, I actually plan to raise the *** end up a little. I could use a tit bit more uptravel, and the Jeep seems to sit a bit low in the rear anyways. It will be less than an 1" gain, though.

Yeah, I'll gusset the C's too. I want to sky drive a little more
Do itttt!!!! Like said, prothanes are amazing. And c gussets are easy to make. I just threw some 3/16 on there.

An the ballistic truss is nice but if you want to keep the stock upper mounts on the axle it will require cutting it up. And the top of the truss where the passenger side UCA is is still only 1/8". The 1/4" advertised piece only goes over the diff center.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dillard View Post
Yea, and I thought it was one of the 11 Commandments:
11) Thou shalt love, cherish, and honor till death, thine square headlights above all other earthy things sayith the Lord.
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Unread 02-18-2013, 08:41 PM   #762
ibjeepin95
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Originally Posted by 1990JEEPXJ View Post
Do itttt!!!! Like said, prothanes are amazing. And c gussets are easy to make. I just threw some 3/16 on there.

An the ballistic truss is nice but if you want to keep the stock upper mounts on the axle it will require cutting it up. And the top of the truss where the passenger side UCA is is still only 1/8". The 1/4" advertised piece only goes over the diff center.
I got like 7 foot of 2x3 1/4" boxed. I can build one! Any advise for welding on the tubes?
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Unread 02-18-2013, 08:43 PM   #763
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I got like 7 foot of 2x3 1/4" boxed. I can build one! Any advise for welding on the tubes?
Take your time, and do a few inches of welding, let it cool for a while, move to another spot, and repeat until you're done. Otherwise you run the risk of warping the housing. Trust me, it happens easier than you think...
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Unread 02-18-2013, 08:44 PM   #764
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Like I'm sure you've read, just do small 2" or so stitches at a time and let cool a bit before moving on. When welding to the cast center, use a torch to heat it a bit then weld then hit it with the heat again a few times a minute for a couple minutes. I had a few crack before I did that and that fixed it. The tubes are nothing special. Just don't focus on one spot too much to prevent warping.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dillard View Post
Yea, and I thought it was one of the 11 Commandments:
11) Thou shalt love, cherish, and honor till death, thine square headlights above all other earthy things sayith the Lord.
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Unread 02-18-2013, 08:47 PM   #765
ibjeepin95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTeunuch View Post
Take your time, and do a few inches of welding, let it cool for a while, move to another spot, and repeat until you're done. Otherwise you run the risk of warping the housing. Trust me, it happens easier than you think...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1990JEEPXJ View Post
Like I'm sure you've read, just do small 2" or so stitches at a time and let cool a bit before moving on. When welding to the cast center, use a torch to heat it a bit then weld then hit it with the heat again a few times a minute for a couple minutes. I had a few crack before I did that and that fixed it. The tubes are nothing special. Just don't focus on one spot too much to prevent warping.
Sweet. I think I know what my next fab project is. At least it will be free!
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