I finally got around to installing my Cowl Snorkel. I bought the 3 Spectre parts from my local O'Rileys about a month ago. I've been going so much I hadn't had a chance to install them. Today I decided it was time.
There are lots of different options for snorkels out there, this is just the one that fit my needs the best. As you know the windshield cowl is a fairly large void at the base of the windshield. The vehicle gets it's cabin air from this void and many of the wiper components are inside there. The void has large water drains on both sides near the rear of the fenders so any water that gets into the area runs right out the drains and onto the ground.
The three Spectre components. Costs about $28 for all.
I drilled a 2.75" hole in the upper firewall. My hole is about 3/4" above the deck in the cowl void. The further up off the deck the less likely water can get into the airbox. If you go too high the hood pushes down on the 3" tube and flange. IMO this was the best location.
Here is the 2.75" hole in the back of the airbox. This location was pretty simple to figure out. You have to keep the hole low enough not to interfere with the air filter and high enough to fit in the triangle shaped part of the box.
Next I mounted the airbox adapter using a special epoxy called G/flex. It bonds all the different polyethylene plastics together. UHMW, HDPE, MDPE, Teflon, Acrylic, etc. This stuff stays very flexible even when cured. I scuffed the bond area on both the airbox and the adapter with 80 grit sand paper then I wiped them with 100% Isopropal Alcohol then warmed the area and dried the alcohol with a heat gun. I mixed up the G/flex and glued the two pieces together. I set them in place and blew hot air toward the airbox to speed up the drying process.
While I waited for the epoxy on the airbox to dry I installed the flange on the cowl. I used black RTV and rivets to install and seal the flange. Cleko's to hold it all in place before riveting.
I whacked the stock air inlet flange from the airbox and glued a piece of HDPE over the hole.
Once all the epoxy was dry I installed the airbox, attached the 3" hose, put in a fresh filter and snapped the lid back on.
Now my air inlet is about 12" higher than stock and no longer susceptible to water splashing up from the tires or small waves that get behind the headlight. This method has proven to be able to go through water above the headlight level with no water in the airbox. I did leave the water drain holes in the airbox unplugged just in case I do get some water in there it will drain out.