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Unread 07-06-2013, 04:32 PM   #16
MountainMan864
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Just buy the x-max notch customs flares and run 33s on a 3" lift. That's gonna be my route

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Unread 07-06-2013, 05:03 PM   #17
krawler510
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I've recently seen pics of a 13.50 on 10" wheel and cut fenders. The tire is 3/4 out of the wheel well. Which is cool and this is 90% an off road ride but I do need to drive it to the locations.

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Unread 07-06-2013, 05:17 PM   #18
Tom95YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krawler510 View Post
I've recently seen pics of a 13.50 on 10" wheel and cut fenders. The tire is 3/4 out of the wheel well. Which is cool and this is 90% an off road ride but I do need to drive it to the locations.

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Go with a 33x10.50 or 33x12.50 on a 15x8 with 3.75 or 4" backspacing. You won't stick out a mile.


Here is a pic of how my Xj sits with 33x10.50's on a 3.5" lift I also run 15x8's with 3.75" back spacing

imageuploadedbyautoguide1373152567.547323.jpgimageuploadedbyautoguide1373152611.295678.jpgimageuploadedbyautoguide1373152626.469815.jpgimageuploadedbyautoguide1373152668.339365.jpg


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Unread 07-06-2013, 06:17 PM   #19
krawler510
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Good looking Jeep! Thanks for the pics.
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Unread 07-06-2013, 06:32 PM   #20
Motorcharge
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33x12.5s on 15x8s with 3.75 bs and 2" lift (more like 1.5") Rear leafs are original and sagging and need to be replaced though. I had about twice the rear clearance as you can see in these pics when I first installed it. 2" shackles on original leafs hasn't helped keeping them from sagging.





If I was throwing a lift and tires on to go to Rausch Creek in a couple weeks I'd go ahead with the 4.5" if you're planning on running it later anyway. Otherwise personally I wouldn't run any higher than 3" on 33s.

edit: gimme a min and I'll get a better side pic, I have a bit more room in the rear than it looks like.





And you can see what I meant about needing to open the rear up.



I'm getting ready to cut out everything in red. Only problem is I need to weld in new sheet metal since it removes the pinch welds that hold the quarter panel and wheel well together. That's what I meant with it taking more work than bolting things on. If you can't weld and do sheet metal work building a LCOG rig is a lot more expensive. Need to cut out parts of the front wheel wells in and weld in flat sheet for uptravel clearance and need to weld in 2x6x.25 tube after cutting the rockers out too since they get hit so much.
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Unread 07-06-2013, 07:44 PM   #21
ibjeepin95
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I hate the term "LOW COG", but if we must use the term, you could say that my setup is LOW COG. I was running 3" of lift on 35's. If you're actually going to use it and wheel it, it's going to take a lot more work than it would with more lift, say 6.5" and 35's. If you are afraid to cut and/or can't weld or fabricate, just stop reading now and call Clayton and order a 6" Long arm system. If you're not scared to do those things, then get ready to be busy. I've done damn near everything I could to improve clearance to anything and everything under my XJ. The crossmember is flat, my rockers have been replaced with 2x6 steel, I run a gas tank skid, and I have hung a Xfer case skid and trans pan skid off of the flat crossmember. I'm currently still working out the bugs as far as clearance issues with the engine pulleys to the electric fan. My biggest mistake was when I did my 3 link. I bought RK's 3 link. Don't get me wrong, it's a great kit, but the lower link mounts are under the frame and they WILL hang up on everything. I could go on and on but if you have any questions feel free to PM me. Currently, my XJ is at 4.5" of lift. Only reason is because I redid the rear leafs and I couldn't get them to sit right at 3", so I leveled the front out. I need to wheel it to see how well I like the new height.

At 3"...





At 4.5"...

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Unread 07-07-2013, 09:10 AM   #22
SFRautomotive
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as said above, a larger 6" lift will work out great and still be stable. but, if you are really stuck on doing a "LCOG" build then i have a couple requirements for an effective build.

-Flat belly pan ( may not seem like much, but that extra 1-1.5" can make a huge difference offroad)
-gas tank skid or relocation (should be obvious, low lift and a sub35" tire means that the tank will still be pretty close to the ground, and its a ****ty way to end your day with a hole in the tank)
-weld in sliders, (best ground clearance possible without boatsiding and cutting into the doors, and will add rigidity to the unibody which will help with all the dragging you will be doing with the frame rails)
-High clearence tucked in bumpers (again, low ride height means you want less stuff sticking out in front and behind you to hang you up.
- and i would do something with the frameside control arm mounts and the rear shackle mounts (slider box) just to help beef things up and get them up out of the way
-skids....anywhere you can fit one should have one.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 02:47 PM   #23
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As far as weld in sliders, how are the JCR Delux sliders?

I already have their gas tank, crossmember, and front bumper coming in.

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Unread 07-07-2013, 03:18 PM   #24
Motorcharge
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...l#post14626511

Pics are dead now but you can get a pretty good idea from the descriptions. Frankly I've never understood why people like them so much, I think they're really over priced. Then again, fools and their money lol
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Unread 07-07-2013, 03:20 PM   #25
ibjeepin95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krawler510
As far as weld in sliders, how are the JCR Delux sliders?

I already have their gas tank, crossmember, and front bumper coming in.

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If your going to actually wheel fun stuff like rocks, don't waste your dinero.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 03:25 PM   #26
krawler510
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What are better options?

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Unread 07-07-2013, 03:27 PM   #27
Motorcharge
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If welding is an option 2x6x.25 tube steel is your best bet and conveniently the cheapest.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 03:30 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by ibjeepin95 View Post
If your going to actually wheel fun stuff like rocks, don't waste your dinero.
^^ This! Now I'm running their stage 1 sliders and they are holding up just fine.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 03:35 PM   #29
krawler510
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Originally Posted by Motorcharge
If welding is an option 2x6x.25 tube steel is your best bet and conveniently the cheapest.
I read the write ups on that you guys have posted and I'd agree it looks like a great solution. Do you guys buy steel local or online dealers?

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Unread 07-07-2013, 03:46 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by krawler510 View Post

I read the write ups on that you guys have posted and I'd agree it looks like a great solution. Do you guys buy steel local or online dealers?

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Buy local
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