The first things I did all took place in the first 2 hrs after agreeing to buy it. The worst visual issues:
dirt pounded into the rubber window seals and flares,
rubber trim was either hanging or missing
windows were literally frosted over w/ hard water stains
stock 225's
knicks and scratches in the paint and all the black trim (all black trim didn't really turn my crank either),
And the bee's, it had been sitting all summer and had 7 bee hives inside and out.
At this point, I had changed the tires and painted the grill.
I straightened the visor yesterday. I always had a real fear of removing it but that's been overcome. It was actually easier for me to get it straight by myself, when it took 4 of us to put it on crooked.
I also found another great hole for running wiring through the firewall. So I got the wiring for the lights to the engine bay.
The front abs lines got unplugged today. They'll be getting deleted with the axle swap and the rear ones are already gone. I'm looking for space so I'd like to get rid of the abs pump if I can. I'd do oba there if I could.
As for the other projects, I got started on the fiberglass repair on the hatch. I'm not gonna make it perfect cuz it'll be covered with armor in the end. I also came up with my scheme for the black armor. I can't really explain it so you'll have to wait and see.
The wiring project is getting interesting. The relays will be on a dp slider panel next to the yellow top. And the dual battery isolator will be on the same setup by the red top. This will allow me to pull the panel up for access, then push down into the tight spaces I have left.
I started painting the trim on the emblems. It's hard to tell but the top one has gray trim. I'm changing it to black using the same paint I intend to paint the armor with.
Back at it after my 2-day work week The stripe should be done by the end of the week...or sooner. All the fasteners on the flares seem to be in great shape, so hopefully that'll go smoothly.
The only other hangup is to take the time to pull the doors apart to pull the locks. This'll give me a chance to see what's wrong with the drivers door lock.
That's very disappointing. I may buy new strips for the reinstall down the road, but for now I'm leaving them alone. Or rather than have a failed attempt to work around them and get the edges perfect, maybe I'll leave a gap around the flares, like a 1/2" or so.
I got the Helicoil for the knuckle. I just hope that fix will hold the torque. I also located a full flare install kit from Crown for $86. I've been held up on the stripe project because I really don't want to half-*** my plan.
I am happy that the Jeep is running fine while I have all these issues
I appreciate the idea, but $40 worth of hardware to half-*** it or $86 to do it right and way easier, hmm. I realize the hardware would hold it just fine and not seem half-assed, but the thought of having to go back and deal with all of it would lead me to avoid the next problem involving the flares.
More like $6 worth of hardware to do all the broken studs on the 2, well 4, rear brackets. And after I got the hang of it about 20 minutes worth of time.
Just realized something. Your flare brackets are so much cheaper, '96 and down, then '97 and up. Least that is what I think I remember when I did this.
It's looking like every kit out there has the bolts separated from the brackets, so I may as well just drill mine out. I'm gonna get the flares off this week and get the stripe done.
Still trying to decide how to trim the little section in front of the front tires. I'm gonna keep it there for the most part, but I need a little clearance there, even for my 31's. I'm sure it'll all come to me when I get the flares off and get a closer look at what I'm dealing with. I know the flares are getting trimmed up to where most of you cut that section off. But I'll be leaving the the last edge of the flare that's up against the body to reach down and keep contact with the airdam. Then some dp trim in the wheel wells to close everything up.
We'll be getting some much needed rain all week so I may not get much done on the striping project.
But I did acquire my solution for my wiring. 6'x.75"id heater hose, and a flexible piece from a swimming snorkel that'll make the bend to go through the firewall. It'll also serve as a grommet for the bare hole I'm using.
All the wires barely fit through the 3/4" hose, and yet I'm extremely pleased with the results. I still have yet to do the mounting panel for the relays. But if the rain stops tomorrow I'll get a template cut.
I've had concern about my routing for this hose full of wires. Looking yesterday I found a new path for it. By the time I'm done thinking this out, I'll be able to install/remove it in about 30 seconds.
The relays will be along the fender next to the battery (right where my hand is in the way). The hose heads to the right, under the dp bracket, then around the abs (vs behind it, which was the biggest issue). I'm just happy I found a pretty clear path cuz this hose is pretty stiff. I may end up making some relief cuts in it to get it right. But I intend to make some retainers for it too.
http://s1335.photobucket.com/user/S8NNG8/media/IMG_20151215_102633_zpsop0zgsbs.jpg.htmlThe relays will be along the fender next to the battery (right where my hand is in the way). The hose heads to the right, under the dp bracket, then around the abs (vs behind it, which was the biggest issue). I'm just happy I found a pretty clear path cuz this hose is pretty stiff. I may end up making some relief cuts in it to get it right. But I intend to make some retainers for it too.
The notch at the front lines up with one of the stock square screw sets in the fender. Aluminum car audio cable retainers will be placed at those screws. The bottom of the panels will hook behind the retainer and there'll only be one screw in the top of the panel at the back.
Yesterday was my Monday, today's my Friday. Big plans for my warm 5 day weekend. The flares are coming off and the mounts redrilled. Then to acquire the 36 nuts and bolts, assuming I'll break them all.
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