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Devil liveD: Building S8NNG8

176K views 3K replies 64 participants last post by  S8NNG8 
#1 ·
The first things I did all took place in the first 2 hrs after agreeing to buy it. The worst visual issues:
dirt pounded into the rubber window seals and flares,
rubber trim was either hanging or missing
windows were literally frosted over w/ hard water stains
stock 225's
knicks and scratches in the paint and all the black trim (all black trim didn't really turn my crank either),
And the bee's, it had been sitting all summer and had 7 bee hives inside and out.
At this point, I had changed the tires and painted the grill.

Automotive parking light Wheel Automotive side marker light Tire Vehicle
 

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#2,002 ·
I've been making progress each day, and the plan was to get the last parts tied up tomorrow. Now I gotta work, so it'll be whatever I can cram into the morning.
Now that I've got it all thought out the other side will be easy. Nip and tuck, and locate the holes.
 
#2,003 ·
I made progress yesterday. The install went flawlessly.
Now to get the box for the red top done. Then the wiring will commence. I already managed to get the + line to the yellow top strung across without it being seen. And since its strung across the front, I fed the cable through a piece of rubber gas line to protect it from grounding in a collision.
I also scored this cargo barrier from Good Sam for $4.
 
#2,004 ·
Here's an update on the driving conditions altered by the weight of the second battery. It is very noticeable that I no longer suffer from the cross draft when going by a semi on a two lane highway. This, to me, is big news.
Power wise, I really don't have a need for the battery till I get the lights and/or the winch. I would like to know if it will be better for the yellow top to be hooked up, or if its just as well off disconnected?
 
#2,005 ·
Here's an update on the driving conditions altered by the weight of the second battery. It is very noticeable that I no longer suffer from the cross draft when going by a semi on a two lane highway. This, to me, is big news.
Power wise, I really don't have a need for the battery till I get the lights and/or the winch. I would like to know if it will be better for the yellow top to be hooked up, or if its just as well off disconnected?
I find this hard to believe I didn't notice the weight of an extra 60 pounds per corner.
 
#2,011 ·
Correction on the floor rust, its not above the muffler. It's above the crossmember where the pipe is closest to the floor. I'll just use the crossmember to attach a heat shield and maybe design it so it'll scoop some ventilation up there.
 
#2,015 ·
I got a hi-lift given to me. I was concerned cuz my buddy told me it was in pretty bad shape...I guess he doesn't know what a hi-lift is capable of enduring.
I plan to clean it up and paint it in 2 colors, probably black and aluminum. I'd like to do the handle and main upright black to help make the jack look smaller. Then 2tone the base and the mechanism.
The only downside is that the aluminum epoxy takes a week to cure. Not a big deal really, I probably won't use it for a year, hopefully.
...and yes, there may be some dp incorporated in decorating the handle. Then the fun part, engineering a jack mount in a wise location.
 
#2,016 ·
Just a shot to show the placement if anyone's interested.
Took the red top out to get some perspective on the battery box for that side. I'm gonna press out the studs and weld nuts on the bottom side so the attachment is the same as the other side.
 
#2,017 ·
A whole new problem! Changed the starter 2weeks ago. I've got intermittent problems again acting like a failing starter. No crank, tap tap, vroom. By the third time, 2 days ago, nothing was fixing it.
After spending an extra hour after work to get it started, I got a push start and went to O'reilly's to remove the starter and have it checked, it was perfect.
Swapped relays, no luck.
Hopped the relay const. + to starter + and off we go. But a good relay won't work. It seems all is well minus a signal to the relay, starter switch! Before I dive into this, does anybody have any other ideas as to what would interfere with that signal? Or have I nailed it?
 
#2,018 ·
A whole new problem! Changed the starter 2weeks ago. I've got intermittent problems again acting like a failing starter. No crank, tap tap, vroom. By the third time, 2 days ago, nothing was fixing it.
After spending an extra hour after work to get it started, I got a push start and went to O'reilly's to remove the starter and have it checked, it was perfect.
Swapped relays, no luck.
Hopped the relay const. + to starter + and off we go. But a good relay won't work. It seems all is well minus a signal to the relay, starter switch! Before I dive into this, does anybody have any other ideas as to what would interfere with that signal? Or have I nailed it?
http://s1335.photobucket.com/user/S...ds/2015-08/repc506204_is_zps0r5a9f80.jpg.html
I guess nobody knows, so off I go to do it...tomorrow:)
 
#2,019 ·
The switch was the problem. But the new switch doesn't allow the old lock cylinder to move all the way to the off position. So I've been having to pry back on the cylinder in order to get the key in and out. Its already warrantied out for a new switch, just gotta find the time to do it
In the mean time, I've been working to get the Su'B back on the road for my sons first car.
This is the bad side, you can see where the gouge from the highway sign almost followed the body lines.
 
#2,020 ·
Made my first attempt to solve the exhaust heat issue.
It was enough to get a 4' section that is the closest to the floorboards.
Also got some new seatcovers so I got a fresh new look next week when I'm out showing off my new baby girl. Friday the 18th is babyday.
 
#2,028 ·
My line-up of tools is getting pretty extensive. Still working on stripping the hilift jack that was given to me. I'm gonna get the main shaft painted tonight and work on disassembling the mechanical part to paint all the bolt-ons...and then a week to cure.
 
#2,029 ·
I guess this is as good a place as any for a rant...I, for one, am pissed that they ended production of the BFG/AT KO1. The KO2 doesn't have the bead protector, which I happen to value. Also, I've asked every guy I see with a set how they like them. Most common complaints were wearing fast and they are louder than the old AT. The wearing fast may be because they are running a larger rim than me.
So I'm on the hunt for my new favorite tire. I would really like to try a set of Interco's but I fear they'd wear fast as well due to a softer rubber for the sake of sport.
 
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