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Devil liveD: Building S8NNG8

176K views 3K replies 64 participants last post by  S8NNG8 
#1 ·
The first things I did all took place in the first 2 hrs after agreeing to buy it. The worst visual issues:
dirt pounded into the rubber window seals and flares,
rubber trim was either hanging or missing
windows were literally frosted over w/ hard water stains
stock 225's
knicks and scratches in the paint and all the black trim (all black trim didn't really turn my crank either),
And the bee's, it had been sitting all summer and had 7 bee hives inside and out.
At this point, I had changed the tires and painted the grill.

Automotive parking light Wheel Automotive side marker light Tire Vehicle
 

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#1,870 ·
Sorry Luke, I read back through my last post and realized that without context, that really sounded rude. My son laughed his *** off when I said it. Anyway, I'd like to explain what the sarcasm was pointing to. The answer I wanted to hear was that lifted length shocks would still be fine after moving the mounts up. I believe the Bilstien 5100's are not available for stock length and I've got a fixation on getting a set.
Everybody has stuffed the rear tires and measured for bump stops. But what of the shocks, are they bottomed out at this point? Would I likely destroy the rear shocks from bottoming them out? I'd be trying to run a 3" lift shock, on 4.5" lift, minus the 3" lost from bracket relocation. Perhaps extended bumps would make this all work right, yes/no?
I've run you guys round and round for the last page or so without asking the right question, sorry.
 
#1,875 ·
I have read and read, and searched, and read some more. And now I've got too many opinions mixed in with the facts.
LockRight vs no-slip: on one of the dealer sites on the web, it said I have to have a stock LSD in order to do a no-slip, but if im starting with an open diff it has to be a LockRight. Please tell me this isn't true.
 
#1,876 ·
S8NNG8 said:
I have read and read, and searched, and read some more. And now I've got too many opinions mixed in with the facts. LockRight vs no-slip: on one of the dealer sites on the web, it said I have to have a stock LSD in order to do a no-slip, but if im starting with an open diff it has to be a LockRight. Please tell me this isn't true.
No get an open carrier locker
 
#1,888 ·
God ****ing DAMMINT Pull the God damned cover and look for your self to see if it is open. If it is open get the 8.25 29 spline open carrier version if it is a lsd get the one for a damned limited slip. Now I had the open version it worked like a limited slip till I needed it to lock then it did. Now stay away from a lock rite they have the worst on the road tendencies behind a manual up front it wouldn't matter but since we are talking rear application it will.

Also all this info is in my build thread.
 
#1,890 ·
I already know its an open diff, I just wanted to know if there are the 2 different styles for a no-slip, which you've indicated there is, thank you. Also, thank you for the advice on the lockrite.
As far as any of this being in your build thread, I'm not gonna read 100 pages of blahblah just to be left wondering if that info applies to my situation. Just as you've chosen to answer my questions, you could just as easily choose not to. Now that I've snapped at Phil, and you've snapped at me, can we get on with this?
 
#1,889 ·
To remain cost effective and being able to get things done due to a lack of free time, the "to do list" will be focused on getting the 8.25 off my porch and under my Jeep.
Unless an hpd30 with 3.55's happens to become available at a good price and in great condition, I'll be regearing my hpd30. As soon as that's done the 8.25 can go in and get driven on to test for any flaws, like a bad pinion bearing. If all's well, a no-slip will go in the rear first. As time and money allow, a no-slip will then be added to the front. It may be awhile before I can say this is done, but it seems like the months pass like minutes to me.
My summer project is to get the black stripe done. This followed by the cutting and forming dp armor.
If all of this can happen over the next year, I'll be happy.
 
#1,892 ·
Ya, but you did it out of interest, not out of need. I've read all of yours too, out of interest. That's where I learned the value of locking the front axle. That kind of info is useable, but the technicalities are hard to copycat cuz we all have different situations. As an example, it would've been stupid for me to start copying SFR or anybody with 1 ton axles.
 
#1,893 ·
S8NNG8 said:
Ya, but you did it out of interest, not out of need. I've read all of yours too, out of interest. That's where I learned the value of locking the front axle. That kind of info is useable, but the technicalities are hard to copycat cuz we all have different situations. As an example, it would've been stupid for me to start copying SFR or anybody with 1 ton axles.
valid.
 
#1,894 ·
So the issue with the axles is discussed and over with. As stated above, I've made my decisions based on your input weighed against the reviews I've read. The choice for the front axle was solely based on me being able to work on it, without needing a shop to fix a disfunctional locker.
The next issue will be to get to a jy and get the parts I need for my drivers door handle and lock to operate properly. Should be simple.
 
#1,900 ·
I think its safe to say that after 3yrs and 40k miles, my Rusty's shocks are trashed. With everything I've got on my plate at this point, I'll most likely be waiting till February to fix that. By that time I'll be gathering parts to get my 8.25 installed.
 
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