Springs, most springs are uprated for larger bumpers and winches and stuff, my RE 3.5in XJ coils put me at about 5in installed. There is a lot of advanced tech that goes into picking "prefect" springs and most manufacturers dont publish enough info to make a proper assessment, but if youre not building a competition rig it likely doesn't matter. Shock valving will play more into performance than the springs will.
LCAs, adjustable vs non isnt a big deal, the LCA mount has a adjustment in it to make caster adjustments from. Adjustable arms are nice, but not wholly necessary. The bent or curved arms dont make much if any difference either, pick some. Bent arms are technically weaker but that's never been an issue for anyone AFIK, also the bent arms do allow for more tire clearance at full lock.
drop brackets are nice cause they allow for more droop and wheel travel as well as smooth out the ride quality some, long arms will do the same at a higher price point while staying out of the way.
Mine with drop brackets.
There arn't any rocks in FL obviously, but the drop brackets have never gotten me hung up on anything.
Trackbar, pick one, just not Rustys unless they've started using something other than that week TRE on the end of it. Also double shear mounts are good to have.
The rear shackle angle will be more determined by the eye-eye length of the spring while loaded than the shackle its self. easy way to get good shackle angle is the shackle relocation brackets kits, rough country and HD offroad sell them. They also add a variable amount of lift, so add that into your final height calculations. changing the shackle angle can really change how the rear end behaves.
UCA arent a big deal until you start doing serious wheeling, lots of us are still running stock uppers, same with many TJs.
You've got the right idea with shocks. Figure out your bump stops first, long enough to keep the tire out of the sheet metal, then measure for shocks, also remember that bump stops do compress about an inch or so. Ideally at ride height the shock should be between 40-60% compressed, mine are closer to 75% compressed, makes the ride harsh as it hits the bump stops sooner.
On the bumpstops, i have the OEM ones, Daystar and Energy Susp. are both good to go, pick one. The fronts should just pop in and out by hand, a little grease makes it easier. The rears either way will work, get the extended and cut them down to fit if need be, or block the OEM ones down to fit. Skip the master kit unless you want to do every suspension components, since you're looking at replacing most of them with aftermarket parts no its a waste, just order the ones you need.
BPEs can be made with the old rear sway bar parts, you'll be removing them during the lift install.
Brake lines, go ahead and get the longest ones you can find, they're usually the same price as the shorter lengths, and if you go higher you wont need to replace them then too. and if they end up being to long you can keep them out of the tires with zipties or light springs or bungee cord.
One more thing to consider, the slip yoke, all the lift parts are going to be useless if the rear drive shaft falls out constantly.