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FS: Jeep Fog Light LED Bulbs! Several Brightness Options! SPARTAN LOCKERS are on sale BIG TIME at ROCKRIDGE 4WD!Yukon Ultimate 35 axle kit for c/clip axles with Yukon Zip

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Unread 12-24-2013, 08:43 AM   #76
kevinofhardy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jorban View Post
Nice build! I want your take on which performance mods are worth doing. Most them seemed to improve responsiveness more than anything. I am looking for a little more power overall and some cleaner high end power (3200+ rpm). My jeep makes me cringe at 4000 rpm.

After reading I am thinking of doing the Spectre intake and a cat back exhaust (maybe high flow cat too).

The injectors and bored throttle body don't seem to make a huge a difference. Is this a fair assessment?

Also, do you have any issues with the spectre on the interstate (70+ mph)? Like whistling or noisiness?

Thanks in advance!


Thanks man! Yeah, like you said there wasn't anything that unlocked a tons of extra HP. With all of the driving time now I will give you my current thoughts.

Since you are most interested in the higher RPM power I think that the exhaust will be your best friend. This made the biggest difference with my highway cruising. I am now able to accelerate in 5th gear without bogging down instead of having to downshift to 4th to climb even small hills. I also felt that the engine didn't brake as hard when I let off of the gas which does tell me that it is flowing much better. I did do a high flow cat at the same time as the rest of the exhaust so I cannot say how much of a difference it made.



Spectre Cowl Intake:
It is really loud when you start a cold engine. After your jeep warms up there is much less noise. If you do a good clean installation with no sharp edges you will not get any whistling. At WOT the intake growls like a beast! I love that noise. Unless you are at WOT often then this noise won't be an issue at all.
Normally when I start my jeep it seems to have more pep and power when the engine is cold. After it warms us is slightly more sluggish. With this intake that was not really an issue since the air going in was still cold. I only had it on for about 2 days before I got my exhaust so I cannot comment on the power that the intake provides.

63MM Throttle Body:
This was a great idea over all. I think that it tapers down to like 54mm when stock. This is a huge dam when all of the other modifications are designed to increase flow. Your system can only be as good as the most restricting part. That is why I have done all of the little performance mods.
The power from this mod was most noticeable at low speeds and take off, but like I said I eliminated this as the smallest part of my intake.

Injectors:
This is a must do if you want more power and a smoother engine. My engine is just as smooth at start up in 0*F as it is when it is completely warm. When at higher RPMs if you cannot ignite the fuel efficiently then you will be losing a tons of power. The stock injectors are fine, but with the 4 hole injectors my engine didn't want to bog down unless I was really pushing it in too low of a gear. This was one of my favorite upgrades both for the power and the super smooth engine that you get with the better injectors.

Electric Fans:
A lot of people claimed HP gains be removing the mechanical fan. I do not think that I did. I was not able to tell any noticeable difference. Unless you need the extra cooling power, or the ability to turn them off it is not really necessary. There is a cool factor for having a sweet fan setup though. haha


For higher RPM power I would suggest basically all of the above. It is all about removing the weakest link and when you upgrade one it makes another part the weaker link/limit.

If I had to choose I would do the injectors and the exhaust.

I will be doing a header and down pipe once I get some armor under my rig. So I will be able to comment on the benefit of those as well.

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Unread 12-27-2013, 08:43 AM   #77
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Ok cool cool. Thanks for the info. I am pretty much set on doing exhaust and intake now; going to take a harder look at the bored TB and injectors.
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Unread 12-28-2013, 03:40 AM   #78
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Great build thread...nice work. Agreed on most of your mods, sounds like a build thread of my Jeep actually. lol
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Unread 01-02-2014, 10:08 AM   #79
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Thanks Greg, I couldn't find your thread but your jeep looks great.

Today I finally identified the issue I have been having with my stereo. It has been going into "Protect" mode for about 1-2 months now. the issue is with the passenger side door speaker. I ran new wire when I installed my new system so I didn't think it would have been there, and there was plenty of slack in the wire so I didn't think it could have developed a short. I will rewire it today and figure out what exactly happened to cause the problem.
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Unread 01-02-2014, 10:43 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinofhardy View Post
Thanks Greg, I couldn't find your thread but your jeep looks great.
Thanks Kevin. I don't keep it very up to date, and it is not nearly complete or chronologically accurate, but overall it is representative of where I am with it.

Just added some pics and details.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/r...roject-632868/

box of new parts accumulating in the garage...lol.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 11:48 AM   #81
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Greg, I read through it the other day and then I read your trailer build. Both are really sweet. I would love an expo trailer.
Have a chance to buy a lock right for my 44 in the rear, but I don't think I could live with it on the street. I drive it like a race car and it would kill me to not be able to accelerate through corners.

Welder news...
The deal on the MM200 may have fallen through, but I am still looking for a good welder to learn on. I may buy a new MM211.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 10:38 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinofhardy View Post
Greg, I read through it the other day and then I read your trailer build. Both are really sweet. I would love an expo trailer.
Have a chance to buy a lock right for my 44 in the rear, but I don't think I could live with it on the street. I drive it like a race car and it would kill me to not be able to accelerate through corners.

Welder news...
The deal on the MM200 may have fallen through, but I am still looking for a good welder to learn on. I may buy a new MM211.
Thanks man, the trailer is a fun project, proud of the stuff I have done there.

I too hear lockers like the Lock Right can be "fun" in the rain/snow etc... and by fun I mean really freakin dangerous! lol

My Dakota had LSD in the rear and their "anti spin" rear diff. Yeah, anti spin my arse...in the rain it was interesting in the corners with your foot into it.
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Unread 01-09-2014, 05:44 PM   #83
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Had a lok-right in my DD wrangler for almost 2 years and it died (started popping every 2 seconds, even in a straight line). Took it out went back to stock for a few years till I saved up for a real locker. Found a (super 35 kit) OX locker with Yukon axles for $700 flat through Randy's ring and pinion.
Been very happy with that.

Maybe look into the Auburn cone posi for your 44. Had one in a hotrod. Less parts to wear out.
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Unread 01-12-2014, 08:42 PM   #84
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Thanks for the input; I agree that an automatic locker would not be ideal for me. I am going to stick to my original plans of selectable lockers front and rear when I do my gears.

So I finally have some updates.
My jeep has not been getting very consistent connection with the battery due to my pathetic terminals so I will be upgrading to these.
They are the military terminals from Prime 4X4 (LINK). I also picked up a pair of their side terminal connections just in case I get a battery that also has side posts. Such as the Diehard Platinum battery that has both side and top posts.
I wish I would have realized that they were local so I could have saved on the shipping. Also, they have already proved to me that their customer service is trustworthy because the refunded me for shipping costs caused by computer error that I was not even aware of. I will be going back to them for future electrical needs.
I think I will wait to install these until I have upgraded my main electrical. I plan on following this write up (LINK).
I think I am going to go with 2 awg wire for all of it because I can and I cannot think of any reason not to.


Now for the actual progress that I have made…
I have had the C 4X4 tow hooks installed for a while. One of the downsides for these OEM style tow hooks is the lack of strength for side pulls. Many people prefer the full tow hitch type setup because it ties into both frame rails and gives better strength for side pulls.
The solution I have found for this concern is a bulk head/ cross member that tied both frame rails together at the tow hooks.
C4X4 Brackets:


It replaces the small angle brackets provided with the C4X4 kit and crosses the entire front end of the jeep. It cost me $50 through a local company RigidCo. I have visited Terry’s shop and while it is a small setup he does very good work and he does it very well.
The install would have been pretty straight forward except for the fact that I had already installed th tow hooks and I have my front skid on. This made it a lot more work than it would be for many people. You cannot get to the bottom bumper bolts without taking off the tow hooks.
First thing you have to do is take off the front bumper caps. Should be 2 bolts/nuts and two screws per side.

You have to remove one bolt completely and loosen the second and you can do this.

Once the tow hooks have been moved you can take out all 4 bolts holding the bumper to the brackets.
I knew that it would be easier to remove my skid plate so I took it off. There are 3 bolts holding it to the front cross member/bulk head, and then 2 bolts into the passenger side frame rail, and 1 on the driver side right next to the sway bar bracket mounts.
Most people do not link the front skid, so I didn’t take to many pictures.
Installed:

Removed:


The next step is to remove the C 4X4 brackets. Very straight forward to remove the 4 bolts on each side. The driver’s side is a bit more difficult because of the power steering gear box right behind. So it took a little work, but still doable.

Now you are left with this:

This is stock so you may be starting from here.
Now this is important… I have a manual transmission and therefor do not have a trans cooler. Normally you will see the lines coming through on of the hole in the bulk head. You will have to disconnect and reconnect these if this is the case. I luckily did not have any such problems.
I did have to break the plastic clip holding the OEM fog lights in pace and tuck it up with my PutCo harness which is the yellow wire.

The bulk head comes in bare steel so I scratched it up and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and painted it satin black.
I test fit it and there was some very slight fitment issues, but nothing you cannot work around. The overall length could have been about 1/8 inch longer as there was a very small gap on either side where it bolts on. Also, these bolt holes could have been placed a little better. I got them threaded through and with my tools they snugged right up into place.

I reused the C4X4 grade 8 hardware instead of the supplied grade 5 hardware for the corners, and then used 4 of the bolts and nylock nuts for the 4 center mounting holes.
Once it is all bolts up it looks like this:

I did not put my bumper on immediately as I had something else that I needed to upgrade. 
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Unread 01-12-2014, 09:14 PM   #85
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I have wanted to make some upgrades to my steering for a long time. I had never really had any issues other than some death wobble when I first lifted, but I still wanted to upgrade. I know that I am only in a temporary stage in my build so I didn’t want to go all out on my steering just yet.
I decided to upgrade to the V8 ZJ tie rod. I have a hook up at Napa and can get the parts very close to cost so it was not to expensive to get new parts. Also, I hate picking from a junk yard in the winter.
Parts List:
Tie Rod – DS1312 - $58
Tie Rod End(drivers side – ES-3096 - $22
Adjustment Sleeve – Lost the receipt - $30 without the discount
To keep my alignment I left my jeep parked firmly on the ground and unbolted my tie rod from the knuckle and the drag link and it falls right out.
Now this is where you will see the reason for the upgrade.






The old rod is hollow and pathetic. The new tie rod is much bigger and solid compared to the OEM XJ rod which is basically a metal straw. The threaded shank on the new rod it about the same diameter as the old rod.
The one positive is that the old rod had two replaceable ends compared to the ZJ which only has one and the other end is permanently attached to the bar.
I also get to keep the old one as a trail spare in case I ever need it.
I have been driving without my sway bars attached so I have not really felt much of a difference yet, but I know it is much stronger.
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Unread 01-12-2014, 09:49 PM   #86
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Trail report!
I have been out twice recently that I have not posted. Maybe three times.
I went out to RattleSnake on 12/1/2013 and had a blast. We had a small group and the thread for that with pictures is here. LINK

On 12/20/2013 I went with my brother in his ZJ up Hobble Creek. There was quite a lot of snow, and the only tracks were snow mobiles and the like. We had a lot of fun and luckily didn’t get stuck or roll down a cliff. He copied me and got the same tires which have excellent traction in the snow and everything I have tried them in.




On 1/4/2014I went with a the Utah Jeep Crew which is the local JeepForum group to Rattlesnake and we had a huge turnout. I didn’t take many pictures, but the thread can be viewed HERE and this is the LINK to the photos.


I really suggest looking through those pictures from 1/4. There are some really fantastic rigs and it was an awesome turnout.

My XJ was able to make it to Wayne's World without bypassing any of the obstacles. I didn't take the hardest lines, but with the ice everywhere it was still a fun challenge.
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Unread 01-13-2014, 05:25 PM   #87
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Nice.
Thanks for posting about the bumper removal. My book dosent even show it (darn Chilton) .
The bulkhead brace ya had made looks like it could be a hidden winch mount if it had angled edges. I have that on the brain lately .
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Unread 01-13-2014, 05:36 PM   #88
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Looking good, that hook setup looks stout!!
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Unread 01-13-2014, 07:39 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modstock View Post
Nice.
Thanks for posting about the bumper removal. My book dosent even show it (darn Chilton) .
The bulkhead brace ya had made looks like it could be a hidden winch mount if it had angled edges. I have that on the brain lately .
Yeah, it was trial and error the first time i removed my bumper. There were a few write up about the tow hook instal, but nothing specific.

The bulkhead is part of the RigidCo mounting for all of thier front bumpers. They are also local in SLC so I went to his shop to pick it up. He has the most comprehensive mounting for both front and rear bumpers that I have ever seen.

His website is... lacking, but he has a flickr page that has a lot more pictures and is very helpful.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rigid/sets/



Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasGT View Post
Looking good, that hook setup looks stout!!
Yeah, I am really happy with how it turned out. I get the rigidity of the hitch mounts with the clearance of the OEM tow hooks which I feel is a win win.
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Unread 01-14-2014, 07:19 PM   #90
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This build has a ton of great mods and good documentation here to go along with it. Nice work with this XJ!
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