i want to rip out my hack-n-tap now and get that shaft!
__________________ "He almost broke the land speed record in 1977, popular opinion amongst his team was that his beard caused to much wind resistance. He would have shaved it… No, no he wouldn’t have."
Just call them up and tell them what you need, they know their stuff and put out a great product. There's a lot more options for the 231 than the 242, but I opted to keep it since I do a lot of driving in the passes during the winter where the 4H Part-Time really shines.
Haven't done a whole lot lately, but more parts are slowly starting to trickle in. Picked up a 3' Firestik antenna, Uniden Pro 538W CB and 18' of Firering coax. I also have some Bushwacker front flat fenders coming sometime today, but need to get some metal trimming stuff before I tackle that. Crown extended brake lines should be here Tuesday.
I did get something installed though. Factory short-arms are really kind of a hindrance with the ACOS, because they don't allow for enough droop to take the weight off the coils so that the rings can be adjusted (unless you have near factory-height coils). They simply 'bottom out' on the axle mounts, requiring you to either use coil compressors or unbolt the arms. Since it's a huge pain in the *** to line up the axle and rebolt those with the coils already in, I opted to rent some compressors from Auto Zone. Took just over an hour and now I can dial in the height to accommodate the 150+ lb bumper/winch combo going on soon.
Yay, shiny new ACOS
Booooo, crappy old stacked spacers (1.75")
Pretty easy to install, just cut level with the internal washer...
...then hit it with some spray paint to keep the rust away, slide it on and bolt it in
I solved that by having the exhaust turn down just before the rear axle. There was a random factory hole in the chassis just above the outlet which made for a perfect mounting point for the Super 44. At 14 lbs it's a heavy bastard, but I won't have to worry about anything bashing it in on the trails.
I should mention that having it set up like this sets off *a lot* of car alarms.
Threw in some new Crown brake lines today; about 6" longer than stock. Fronts are 26" and the rear is 21" I believe. No problems, no stripped bleeders or anything else but the upper rear retaining clip was a pain to get off. My first time bleeding brakes and no fiery crashes of death so far, so I'm guessing I did it right.
Also got my Bushwacker flat flares in, but I need to track down a jigsaw before I tackle that. Don't quite trust myself with an angle grinder on body panels.
Just re-used the stock mounting location and Torx
Nice and firm, they stay in place and don't flex into the tires at full lock
The amount of dirt and crap I removed from around the original t-block was unreal
Thanks, Greg. When are you going to bring your rig down here so we can take some of that showroom-shine off of it on the trails? I'm going to Evans Creek this weekend, so we'll see how much body damage the XJ can avoid (will get some pics and video).
Originally Posted by K-R
great ideas on here, subscribed.
i have the 3.5: dirk/ome kit and 31's with a transfer case drop... i get the womwomwomwomwom 24 x 7 :-) i always thought it was just the tire sound, though. keep up the good work!
I forgot DPG even carried OME kits when I ordered mine, but all I really missed out on were their included swaybar cables. I didn't need anything super-fancy as I just wanted a simple quality kit to clear 31's so that I could go play this year until I can afford a regear and move up to a taller lift and tires.
Driveline vibe is very chaotic; it's never really the same for any vehicle even if they have the same components. It wasn't nearly as bad as it was in my YJ, so I wasn't as concerned driving around for a few months before getting the SYE kit. Whether you get a resplined mainshaft or hack-n-tap your own, it should be a required upgrade for anyone intending to go offroad unless you really love replacing u-joints.