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Unread 10-31-2011, 11:45 PM   #136
MCObray
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Originally Posted by PhilipJ View Post
Thanks...figured this would float to the bottom until I updated it with new radiator and fan install pics.

My rims are 15x8 with 4" of backspacing. I only had the 33's on for a couple of days before I installed the long arms but I didn't notice any rubbing. Then again all I did between then was a quick trip to get my axles regeared and then it sat in the driveway for a few days until it was done.

UBE's and AAL are a good idea, I hadn't really considered that option. I think some AAL's would probably just do it. Looks like they are a little cheaper than I thought!
UBE's?

AALs are a great idea. I added OME D-22XL AALs to my OME Leaf Pack and it gave it a little more rake, which is perfect. Loaded it up some and now it sits level. It cost me $64.12 out the door from Amazon.com.

Do you have AJ Super Rock-Rails? If so how was the install? The only reason I ask is because i'm suppose to receive mine tomorrow.

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Unread 11-01-2011, 12:03 AM   #137
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http://www.tntcustoms.com/u-bolteliminiators.aspx

U-bolt eliminators. Essentially they just use straight bolts instead of u-bolts and you net about 1/2" of lift. Kind of a lot of work (welding new perches and shock mounts) unless you are stripping down the axle or doing a whole new lift. I think I'll just grab some AAL's, that should be a quick, cheap and easy project.

Yep, I have AJ's Super RockRails. The install was very easy, just get something to hold it in place while you mark the drill holes. I think I used a bucket and my floor jack. In my case it was a little tougher though because I had to drill 14 holes through the 3/16" unibody stiffeners and the frame. Oh, and a right angle drill will probably help a bit. At the time I just had a generic cordless and the back of it would hit the pinch seam when trying to drill the upper holes, leaving it at a bit of an angle. They need to be fairly straight so that the self-threading bolts (21/64" I think) can get a good bite.
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Unread 11-01-2011, 06:16 AM   #138
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Thanks!

Yes, the UBEs are a bit of work, but the D44 I picked up had a trashed spring perch so it worked for me. The OME AAL still rides nice and I got about 3/4-1" extra height and hit handles the weight of tools etc better for sure. With all that I've got about 4" of rear lift and am still using the stock shackles. Based off your build I think it would be a solution you'll be happy with.

If you had it to do over would you stick with the 15x8s or would you get 15x10s for your 33s?
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Unread 11-01-2011, 07:53 AM   #139
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If you had it to do over would you stick with the 15x8s or would you get 15x10s for your 33s?
GOOD QUESTION!!!
I've heard (in some circles) that an 8" rim will hold a 12.50 tire aired down better, you get more bead bite (if that makes sense) due to more resistance of the larger tire on a smaller rim. Think of it like a smaller glove on your hand...it'll be harder to take the small glove off of your hand vs. an XL glove.
That and you have less rotating mass with a smaller rim, and that means more mpg's..... (i know... we're talking nickles and domes here but still)
"Survey Says?...."
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Unread 11-01-2011, 03:11 PM   #140
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All of that and they're cheaper. I had the same setup on my YJ and never had any problems, so I wasn't too eager to change it. I like the slight balloon-look, too. 15x10's kind of flatten out the sidewall on 33's and it just looks strange to me. I would only consider them if/when I move up to 35's and possibly a 16" or 17" rim diameter as well.
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Unread 11-02-2011, 10:21 AM   #141
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Hey we still have practically the same Jeep, except yours is getting better than mine

I'm about to put 33's on mine with the Rubicon Express 3.5" superflex kit and bushwacker flat flares. Currently running 32's with that set up, and it looks like there's plenty of room for the 33's. I can get the 32's to rub the back edges of my front OR-FAB bumper when the sway bar is disconnected, so I'm going to need to trim a little bumper. Where do you think I'm going to get rubbage based on your experience? Mostly talking about rear...obviously your front end is a bit different now.

Jeep is looking good man
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Unread 11-02-2011, 08:17 PM   #142
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Except I still have to get out of mine to mail letters at the post office.

I see what you are talking about with the front bumper. That horizontal tube does seem to wrap around a bit too far; I wonder why they designed it like that? It's not really necessary and would actually look a lot better I think if it were trimmed in a bit to match the other tubes. Probably just to match the fender line I suppose.

As far as the rear, I rub just a little on the driver's side when it's compressed. I popped the front and rear 'mounts' out while wheeling (the weak ones that aren't screwed in like the ones in the arch). I was a little annoyed by such flimsy mounting for those spots, but I'll be cutting the rear one out to make way for my bumper when it's ready to be installed. Still, I think I could use a touch more lift in the rear to compensate even though I never bothered lengthening my bumpstops. I'm not sure of the exact amount of lift I have back there, but it could definitely use an inch or two more performance and aesthetics-wise. I also somehow ripped out the front passenger fender liner by just barely snagging a lug on the lower corner of it. At least I can just add a little lift for free with the ACOS to rectify that problem.

Based on all of that, I think it's safe to assume 5" is probably a good minimum for clearing 33's without screwing with bumpstops too much (or ghetto-trimming the hell out of the fenders).
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Unread 11-03-2011, 07:29 PM   #143
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Awesome build! Just read through all the posts and I didn't want it to end! I need more!
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Unread 01-05-2012, 01:18 AM   #144
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Awesome build! Just read through all the posts and I didn't want it to end! I need more!
Phil you lazy norwegian, continue your build, get those new fasteners for your transcooler and start posting again
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Unread 01-11-2012, 03:54 PM   #145
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Well I started the fan + radiator project, but I ran into some problems. First, the trans cooler fittings on the Champion 3-row are different (little 90 tubes that couple with the radiator fittings) so you can't just slap the lines on there. Second, the lower fitting hits against the inside of the frame/body, (because of the 90 bend) so the lower radiator posts won't seat into the holes. This makes it uneven at the top, making the header not line up properly. Fine, I thought, I'll just bypass the radiator's trans cooler and go directly to my heavy duty aftermarket one.

So I get everything else finished and...the neck is too close to the header. So close that I couldn't get the damn cap on. Well, it will fit over the slots but the caps nubs are oriented so that they will hit the header while attempting to tightnen it down. You can see where Chrysler purposely tilted it back so that fitment wouldn't be an issue. I measured both in every which way in the neck angle is the only difference. Not real happy, but after some googling, it seems to be a rare issue and is usually resolved by Champion.

In any case I'm done ****ing around with it and just going to reinstall the stock radiator for now with the e-fans since I already removed the clutch fan and plumbed in the temp sensor. Short of hacking up my header which is just out of the question, there's just no way to make the radiator fit.

Champion rad/cap (it needs to turn clockwise to seal)
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Unread 01-11-2012, 04:09 PM   #146
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Oh, and a teaser pic...

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Unread 01-11-2012, 06:11 PM   #147
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You're building a BBQ Grill for all of us to use?
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Unread 01-11-2012, 06:37 PM   #148
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Looks like a kick arse battery holder to me!

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Unread 01-11-2012, 07:02 PM   #149
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Yep. Never know when you might need a spare battery.
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Unread 01-11-2012, 07:47 PM   #150
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completely off topic: is that your husky in the pic? I'm thinking about buying one soon. I want a jeep dog!
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[QUOTE=AustinTJer;9988995]Have you ever seen and or filmed a rainbow? More specifically a double, possibly triple rainbow?[/QUOTE]
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