I am creating this thread to document my progress as I fix up and restore my 93 XJ that I bought about a month ago.
I bought this XJ to use as a daily driver, and also as a work truck as needed.
4.0, 5spd, 2wd. 66,XXX miles on the clock when I bought it. We all love 4wd, but I couldn't pass up this Jeep considering the low mileage and the deal that I got. 2wd will also help with fuel "economy," considering that this is a daily driver.
I would like to make it 4wd in the future, but it is a low priority. I will acquire parts in the meantime, as I find deals.
It would be great to achieve the upper end of the fuel economy range listed on the dealership window sticker below. "Between...18 and 26 mpg on the highway." 25 mpg with an XJ would be great.
So far, the best fuel economy that I have gotten is ~23 mpg. The car is entirely stock, with the exception of 235/75R15 tires.
So far, here is the work that I have done:
Changed differential oil, transmission oil, engine oil + filter
In the process of flushing cooling system...the coolant was nasty
Fuel pump, fuel filter
Rear hatch supports
Valve cover gasket
Replaced valve cover
New CCV, vent elbow, and grommets
Gates water pump, Stant thermostat
NTK O2 sensor
Replaced radiator/heater hoses
Eliminated heater control valve
Motor mounts and engine support bracket bolts
Monroe Severe Service Shocks
On board air, using Sanden AC compressor
Replaced battery, starter, and alternator cables
Replace the base model gauge cluster with the full gauge cluster package
Dodge 703 injectors
Today I cleaned up and painted a valve cover that I picked up at the junkyard a while back.
I flushed the valve cover repeatedly with Simple Green. The inside of the valve cover was pretty dirty, especially between the baffle and the top of the valve cover.
The inside of the valve cover can "soak" in degreaser by capping off the CCV holes with duct tape, and leaving the oil fill cap in place. I flushed the valve cover several times, with a 1:1 mixture of Simple Green to water. It seemed to work fairly well.
Cleaned and painted valve cover:
Installed, with a fresh valve cover gasket:
Quenching old oxygen sensor with water before removal (obviously the engine needs to be hot in order for this to be effective):
That's it for this weekend. Next week, I plan on giving her a tune-up, and working on the cooling system.
The other day I replaced my CCV hoses, as the ends looked like this:
These hoses can be easily replaced with PCV/Fuel Vapor hose, available at any parts store.
~2 ft. 1/2" PCV/Fuel Vapor hose
~2 ft. 3/8" PCV/Fuel Vapor hose
3/8" MIP x 3/8" barbed brass adapter
The hose from the airbox to the front of the valve cover can be replaced with 1/2" hose.
The hose between the intake manifold and the rear of the valve cover can be replaced with 3/8" hose. In order to ensure proper fit, the fitting in the intake manifold must be replaced with a 3/8" MIP X 3/8" barbed brass adapter, which threads right into the intake manifold. A short piece of 1/2" hose can be used as a "coupler," joining the CCV elbow to the 3/8" hose. See below:
Gave the Heep some love in the form of a tune up after work today.
Spark plugs: NGK 7252
Denso plug wires
Standard Motor Products premium distributor cap & rotor
Fram Extra Guard air filter
I also eliminated the heater control valve by installing heater hoses for 97+ XJs (Gates part numbers 19038 & 19039).
Before I put the new plugs in, I ran a compression test. Fortunately, the engine has near-perfect compression across all 6 cylinders (130psi).
New parts in:
I sure wish the distributor cap wasn't bright blue! Doesn't exactly suit the Jeep.
I have been flushing the cooling system repetitively, as the cooling system was neglected by the previous owner. The water is still coming out brown (rusty) after about 5-6 flushes. I would like to get the cooling system completely clear before I put in my new waterpump and thermostat.
Got the water pump done last night. I've been flushing the cooling system over the past two weeks to get all the rust out. During the last flush, I used Prestone cooling system cleaner/flush, which appeared to liberate some more rust that remained in the system.
I flushed the heater core repeatedly, in both directions.
The block was flushed thoroughly as well.
Off with the old:
New vs. old water pump:
The previous owner did not have a thermostat installed at all.
Hopefully, having a thermostat will have a noticeable positive affect on fuel economy.
Today I replaced the motor mounts, as the driver side mount was shot. I decided to go with NAPA mounts, as I am a bit uncomfortable running $5 Anchor motor mounts...who knows, maybe they are made by the same manufacturer.
The pair of mounts came to $38.26 after the AAA discount.
Here's how to go about it, for anyone that is considering replacing theirs. The procedure is more or less the same for both sides. I found that it was easier to work below the car when replacing the driver side mount. There is easier access to the passenger side mount, which makes it possible to replace the mount from above. Replace one mount at a time. I was not able to torque every single nut/bolt down, as my torque wrench would not fit in some of the nooks and crannies where they are located. Torque down everything you can, and use the torqued bolts as a a point of reference when tightening the other bolts with a regular wrench if you must.
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Support the engine. This can be done with a bottle jack and a scrap 2 x 4. Place the 2 x 4 between the jack and the oil pan, and raise the jack to support the engine. Use a bottle jack, as a floor jack will move as the jack is raised.
3. Remove the nut from the through bolt in the mount (18mm). Leave the bolt in the mount.
4. Remove the nuts/bolts from the support cushions. There is a 15mm nut and bolt on the driver side, and two 15mm nuts on the passenger side.
Driver side, top view:
Passenger side, top view:
5. Remove the through bolt, and remove the motor mount.
1. Position the mount, and install the nuts/bolts. Torque to 30 ft. lbs.
2. Install the through bolt and nut. Torque to 48 ft. lbs. It may be necessary to manipulate the jack during this process, depending upon how worn the old mounts were. I had to raise the engine in order to get my driver side mount to line up. When installing the passenger side mount, I had to lower the jack from that position in order to get the mount to line up.
3. It would be wise to torque down the bolts that hold the engine support bracket to the block while you are in there.
Got home from work today, and noticed a sizeable puddle of coolant forming under the Jeep.
The coolant was dripping off of the lower radiator hose. I initially believed it must be something to do with the water pump that I just replaced.
I popped the hood, and noticed there was coolant strewn all about the engine bay. At this point, I was even more concerned.
I checked the coolant level in the overflow bottle, which was 1/3 full. I topped it off, and fired the engine up in an effort to find the leak. There was no indication that the car overheated.
I immediately saw that the plug in the filler neck of the radiator was pissing coolant all over the place.
It's tough to see in the picture below, as the engine was shut off at this point, and the system pressure was dropping. You can see a small stream of coolant squirting out, appearing to make contact with the hose clamp.
Turns out, it was just a faulty o-ring. After the lady came home, I borrowed her car and headed to O'Reilly in search of a replacement.
Old on the left, new on the right:
National Part # 213
15/16" I.D. x 1-3/16" O.D. x 1/8" thick
The new o-ring is obviously thicker. The inner diameter is fairly close. After removing the airbox, I smeared a few drops of oil on the o-ring and installed it. Quite an easy fix, as I was expecting something much worse.