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2000 XJ Project

2K views 26 replies 5 participants last post by  Krpenl2016 
#1 ·
So I'm looking at a new lift kit for my XJ, needs to be relatively cheap. I have 31s now with a 2in block (bad decision), but unfortunately my leaf springs decided to go flat. So I need entirely new leaf spring packages. I'm thinking of a 3 or 4.5 inch lift kit. Leaning towards a 4.5inch. I'm looking at Rough Country's 4.5 inch lifts and was wondering 1. Is the 170 dollar price difference from the normal 4.5 to the X-series worth it? And 2. What are some other things I might need that doesn't come in the X-series. I know steering stabilizer, and maybe drop brackets. This Jeep is my daily so I need a decent ride. I will trail ride and mud some. If anyone has pics that's would be awesome too. Thanks!

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#4 ·
My first suggestion is: If you're new to this, dont get in over your head.
Once you pass 3" of lift,
-the steering is stretched to its limit.
-The trackbar (even an adjustable) has trouble working at that angle. So the axleside mount needs altered/relocated.
-Driveline angles are steep enough to cause vibes and break u-joints. This could ultimately drop your driveline on the pavement and damage it beyond reuseability. An sye and CV driveshaft is the remedy for this.
All these issues can be worked out, but its alot to deal with. Its also makes it alot less fun cuz the moneypit gets deeper.
Control arms need replaced at 4.5" too.
 
#5 ·
Once you lift past 3 inches you will need address many more areas of the suspension and drive line, and this will increase the cost of the lift. With more than 3 inches of lift, control arm drop brackets and an SYE will go from optional to mandatory. Keep in mind no lift kit is 100% complete, and that the higher the Cherokee is lifted, the more things need modifications. 3 inches of lift and 31's looks great, works well off-road, has a decent on road ride, and has a low cost. If you buy a 3 inch lift and decide to add more lift, you can keep the cost down by adding coil spring spacers and extended shackles.

Once you pass 3" of lift,
-the steering is stretched to its limit.
The stock steering is not ideal, but it certainly is not at its limit with 3 or 4.5 inches of lift.

Once you pass 3" of lift,
-The trackbar (even an adjustable) has trouble working at that angle. So the axleside mount needs altered/relocated.
A low cost tie rod end type track bar may be past its limits, but an adjustable double shear track bar is just fine up to about 6 inches of lift and will have no issues using the stock axle side mount.
 
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#6 ·
Would the RC X-series address most of theese issues? I know it comes with 'Lifted coil springs, upper and lower adjustable X-Flex control arms, transfer case drop kit, adjustable track bar, stainless steel brake lines, and sway bar disconnects; Rear: Lifted leaf Springs, u-bolts, and stainless steel brake line; Shocks: (4) Premium N2.0 Shocks' I've read where drop brackets and steering stabilizers is also recommend.

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#8 ·
Would the RC X-series address most of theese issues? I know it comes with 'Lifted coil springs, upper and lower adjustable X-Flex control arms, transfer case drop kit, adjustable track bar, stainless steel brake lines, and sway bar disconnects; Rear: Lifted leaf Springs, u-bolts, and stainless steel brake line; Shocks: (4) Premium N2.0 Shocks' I've read where drop brackets and steering stabilizers is also recommend.

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Four things on the short arm RC X-series:

The X-Series doesn't address an SYE, which you'll need at 4.5".

The short arm X-Series does not address control arm angles. Long arms or control arm drop brackets need to be added for next ride and flex. Worse, you'll want to make sure the minimum length the x-flex arms can adjusted to. 4.5" w/ca drop brackets wants stock length arms. The x-flexes might be too long.

RC shocks are pretty crap. Just a heads up, they don't ride or last well.

It doesn't address steering. You don't necessarily HAVE to do anything crazy at 4.5, it depends a lot on the tire size you'll be pushing around, but you might really want to think about something a little heavier. One of the one-ton kits or even just the Crown HD steering kit or similar, for example.

I'm not bashing the kit, by the way. The only thing it doesn't include that you MUST have to roll down the road safely is the SYE and very few kits come with that included. Just pointing out areas where it might need additions or upgrades first.
 
#7 ·
I have chosen not to venture into the extra expense of going past 3", so I may be missing something. But I'd guess that the steering would be the only thing you'd need to address beyond that kit.
Be aware that Rough Country makes stiff springs that are not the​ most comfortable ride.
 
#15 ·
So I've yet to make a decision on a kit. I've run across a 3inch lift kit from zone with the nitro shocks. Has anybody ran these? Morris 4x4 offers free shipping and has a 30 dollar discount right now so this kit is 10 bucks cheaper then rough country's once I add in shipping. I also figured I could buy an adjustable Track bar, steering stabilizer, TC drop (for now) and brake lines. Any suggestions for the track bar? Rough Country's has good reviews. Thanks

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#16 ·
I would not run any shocks that are called Hydro or Nitro. Many cheaper lift kits use a one size fits many shock that works better under a full size truck than under a lightweight XJ Cherokee. Most of them ride as rough as a grain wagon. I recommend DoetschTech DT3000 shocks, and BDS shocks. They are properly valved for an XJ Cherokee.


Tie rod end type track bars are OK for 3 inches of lift and light duty 4wheeling, but if you think might ever add more lift, or tackle more difficult trails, buy a double shear track bar. I recommend the one from Iron Rock Off Road.
 
#17 ·
Alright so my 3in lift kit came in and I need to find some brake lines. I've read where YJ brake lines would work great. Before I order them. Are these the right ones?
Rear: Dorman H38845
Front Left: Dorman H38862
Front Right: Dorman H38861

I found all three of them for like 40 bucks on Amazon. Thanks for the help guys

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#18 ·
Alright so my 3in lift kit came in and I need to find some brake lines. I've read where YJ brake lines would work great. Before I order them. Are these the right ones?
Rear: Dorman H38845
Front Left: Dorman H38862
Front Right: Dorman H38861

I found all three of them for like 40 bucks on Amazon. Thanks for the help guys

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Those are the ones. They're pretty much exactly like your XJ ones except that the hardlines sticking up from the caliper on the YJ lines are roughly 3" longer, and the rear line is about 4" longer than stock. Plug and play.
 
#20 ·
Iron rock offroad double shear is beef and will last even after you go bigger

I did a bastard pack lift on my last XJ. Didn't need to touch the trackbar or steering. I straightened the hard lines some in front and temporarily unclipped the rear one. I planned to do a longer line mount but I sold the Jeep.

My bastardpack lift consisted of ONLY the rear main leaf on a 90s S10. I cut the eyes off the leaf and placed it over the main leaf on the XJ. I had new axle U bolts made up at a local spring shop cheap. (You will want to replace these). I also bought front 3" coils, centerpins and new clamps for the leaf pack from a local 4x4 shop. I used JK shocks but I read that 96 V8 Explorer shocks are better (google for a tutorial).

For my extended swaybar links I found an extra set at the junkyard and cut them up and welded them together to extend them. A local muffler shop zapped them together for me for free
 
#21 ·
Alright, so I just got home from work and went inside for a bit. Came back out to see liquid all over the place on the passenger side of my Jeep. I opened the hood to see the same stuff on the battery and even on the hood itself. I found the liquid to be brownish and immediately looked at the radiator. I saw some liquid going down the passenger side. I took the radiator cap off and ran water into the radiator. That same water came shooting out on the passenger side of the radiator(where the brown liquid was) And behold a crack going down the side of my radiator. So I now need a new radiator. I have no idea how to replace one and neither does my father. I called a few mechanics and one quoted me around 275-300 for a new radiator and labor. My question is, is it possible to drive the Jeep to the mechanic like this? Can I add more coolant then drive? It's about a 16min drive from my house. .

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#23 ·
I FINALLY got my 3inch lift on my XJ. Looks great. Went to drive it today and noticed a few things. 1. The front driver side tire rubs against the lower control arm, I believe a good 1inch spacer should fix that and give the jeep a more aggressive look. 2. Acceleration and letting off the gas there are vibrations. I'm 99.8 percent sure it's because I haven't installed the TC drop. (Only a temp fix) I tried doing that today and the studs won't come out. To be fair I only pb blasted it for only a few hours. I tried the 2 nut thing and the bottom nut just gets pushed off. Meineke said they could do It. Any other suggestions? Also there are some creaking from the rear when i turn slowly or into a rut. Is that just because the leaf springs are so new? Thanks for the help


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#24 ·
I FINALLY got my 3inch lift on my XJ. Looks great. Went to drive it today and noticed a few things. 1. The front driver side tire rubs against the lower control arm, I believe a good 1inch spacer should fix that and give the jeep a more aggressive look. 2. Acceleration and letting off the gas there are vibrations. I'm 99.8 percent sure it's because I haven't installed the TC drop. (Only a temp fix) I tried doing that today and the studs won't come out. To be fair I only pb blasted it for only a few hours. I tried the 2 nut thing and the bottom nut just gets pushed off. Meineke said they could do It. Any other suggestions? Also there are some creaking from the rear when i turn slowly or into a rut. Is that just because the leaf springs are so new? Thanks for the help

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Vibes are the driveline angles, studs I took out with big vice grips since i was trashing those for traditional bolts with more thread length anyway, creaking is probably just your springs settling, depends on how long it lasts
 
#26 ·
Recently I've been having problems with my gauge cluster. The mechanic says it was the cluster itself and not the wiring. So I went and bought one from the jy. Then that one went out soon after, the jy had a warranty so got another today. Plugged it in and it worked. Then about 2hrs later went to drive and there not working. It's only the gauges. The lights all work. Any Ideas? Thanks

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#27 ·
Lift is great, squeaking has gone down. But now I need some recovery point. My Jeep has none... I found a Curt class 3 hitch on Amazon for 120 ish, almost 50 percent off normal price. While doing research many people suggested getting a transmission cooler if I'm gonna pull or off-road. I like the Hayden rapid cool. Amazon and other forums recommend getting a transmission line fitting kit? I know normally you would cut the transmission lines (upper tranny line on radiator?) and wire them to and fro the cooler. Like where would they go to help make the intsall faster? Also I don't plan on pulling much or at all right now so should I even worry about a cooler? Thanks.


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