2000 classic refresh - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 62 Old 04-21-2016, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
lowrnu
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2000 classic refresh

I've been on the forums for a while previously due to my parents wj they have had for a few years. I recently picked up my first jeep, a 2000 xj classic with 230,000 on the clock and a few goodies already installed. 4.5" rustys short arm lift with 2" spacers, sway bar drop bracket, jks track bar, steering stabilizer, tom woods drive shaft, and a sye. Floors have a bit of rust up front and one spot on the rocker. The trans was having some shifting issues i believe were due to a bad tc lockup solenoid and a disconnected kick-down cable. I am hoping the trans isn't trashed. I am currently going through the whole thing to get a baseline of what it needs.

Current plans.
Replace fluids
Replace air/trans/fuel filters

Go through front end steering/suspension components
Replace valve cover,oil pan, and rear pain seals
replace floor pans with patch panels
Fix electrical issues with windows/locks
Alignment
replace rusted out muffler
New tires(have)
Homemade long arms if I get really ambitious
figure out how to work stereo
WHEEL IT!!!
On to the pictures
As it sits, pretty straight body wise. No significant issues. Not bad for $1300.

First nights progress. Valve cover pulled, coil pack/plugs pulled,oil and trans fluid drained and trans. pan/filter dropped out. Fluid looked horrible. But it doesn't appear the head is cracked.


shot of the plugs

and the new meats waiting to go on, 33 12.5 15 master craft mxt's. craigslist score for $600 brand new


Bonus picture from the last outing I had with some friends, riding.


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post #2 of 62 Old 04-22-2016, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
lowrnu
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Picked up some parts yesterday. Was able to get the trans pan and valve cover back on. A friend stopped by to help look at the front end. The body side of the track bar was loose as well as one of the stabilizer bolts. Passenger ball joints are bad, I think im just going to replace all of them with xrf's while im at it.
I am hoping to get the pan pulled replace the oil pan and rear main and get the pan reinstalled tonight. we all know how those plans go though.

I also apparently killed the battery leaving the hatch open all night, oops.
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post #3 of 62 Old 04-25-2016, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
lowrnu
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Got the oil pan and rear main reinstalled along with new plugs and the coil pack. Found a high pinion 30 front axle for $100 i'm going to swap for the low pinion. While its out most likely going to install some spicer u joints. Snagged a set of orange 19 lb 05+mustang injectors at the junkyard Sunday as well. From what I have read these should be one of the injectors that is a drop in upgrade. I wanted to take more pictures along the way but dirty hands and time crunches keep interfering.
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post #4 of 62 Old 04-26-2016, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
lowrnu
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Got the oil pan completely buttoned up last night. Trans and pan filled with new fluids and swapped out injectors for some ford racing 19lbers that I believe are the correct ones. One of the injectors was actually cracked so I am pretty sure they are at the end of their life cycle anyway. Jumped the battery off my mustang to get it running. Idled goofy for a few seconds then smoothed out. Then i noticed a leak. Fuel line attached at the intake had rusted a hole in it, I guess I broke through the last part while moving the fuel line around installing the injectors. Going to get some fuel line today to splice in.

The good stuff


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post #5 of 62 Old 04-26-2016, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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Got the fuel line fixed today, cut out the bad section and used a 5/16 to 5/16 compression fitting to splice in. No leaks so far, ill get a rubber insulated clamp to hold it on later. Also spliced into the return line after the trans to flush the fluid. Went through 8 quarts before i was satisfied. Cleared the codes as took it for a drive and it seemed to act normal. Shifted when it was supposed to and the shifter was able to shift manually with no issues. No codes after warming up and riving around for about 10 minutes so knock on wood I think the trans is fixed for the moment.
Fuel line splice

Poor mans trans flush


Hopefully tomorrow I can start taking the front end out for the hp30 swap. ordering new ujoints tomorrow for that project.
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post #6 of 62 Old 04-27-2016, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Fixed the rear hatch latch today, had to pull the trim and re adjust the rod going to the latch. Cut off the old muffler it was extremely rusted out and measured for its replacement. Started pulling the interior to diagnose non working power locks and front power windows. Replaced the driver switch with a junkyard one and got the driver window to roll down. Went to start looking into the door wiring for shorts/cut wires and ran into a snag. Apparently there was an aftermarket alarm system installed at some point. I worked for a little over 2 hours pulling it out and tracing wires. I have to solder back together 2 stock wires and wrap some others in some electrical tape. I have a feeling this is probably why there were issues with the door locks. Didn't get around to doing anything with the front suspension since I ran into this surprise.
Rats nest in the driver foot well.

All ripped out

Fun stuff
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post #7 of 62 Old 04-28-2016, 09:43 AM
S8NNG8
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I hope you can get all the wiring back in place and eliminate all the issues. Aftermarket security system was the worst/dumbest thing I ever did to my '87. I was without heater fan, wipers, and turn signals for 3 years cuz I didn't want to screw up the security system I'd payed for. I'll never do that again. It was so frustrating, I wanted somebody to steal it.

D3<!L!>3D
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post #8 of 62 Old 04-28-2016, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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got everything back together from tearing out the security system today. Everything seems to be working alright. Also got all the power windows to work. Re-soldered the door switches thanks to this video I found,
.

Power locks now unlock but are having issues locking. I am pretty sure the only broken wire was for the driver speaker that I re-soldered. A few others had broken insulation but were intact.

Going to go back and double check the switches solder joints to see if i missed one. I got my rough country discos today also but probably wont get them on until I get the hp 20 put in.
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post #9 of 62 Old 05-02-2016, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
lowrnu
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Had a broken wire in the driver door that I missed the first time. Got that fixed and now all the power windows/locks work fine. I also found out the jeep originally came with key less entry. Rather than spend probably over $100 to buy new fobs and have them programmed I bought a Proline REC43T+ off amazon for $26. The should allow key less entry for much cheaper and I should be able to retain all factory options. I bought a high pinon 30 to replace the front lp30 but after getting all the dirt and grease cleaned off its in worse shape than I had originally planned. Shock mounts were rusted out and the track bar and steering stabilizer have a god amount of wear as well.


I am still trying to find a hp30 housing to use but if i can't find something in the next few days ill be cutting the brackets off the lp 30 and welding them on the hp30.
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post #10 of 62 Old 05-03-2016, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Got the carpet pulled out of the front half of the jeep. As i already knew there is rust. Patch panels should be here today, going to start cutting the floor out tonight in preparation. Still trying to figure out the whole front end situation as the lp30 and rusty hp 30 are sitting behind the jeep. Having trouble sourcing a housing for a reasonable price.
Driver floorboards



Passenger

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post #11 of 62 Old 05-04-2016, 06:22 AM Thread Starter
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Got the driver side seat bracket removed and the profile of the section i am cutting out cut. Still need to drill out some more spot welds but i am making progress. Also removed the rear carpet, floor pans look good but there is some pretty serious rust on the lower 1/4's behind the rear tire so it looks like a cut and fold may be in my near future. In other good news i found a housing locally for $50 that i think should work so hopefully i can get this thing back on all 4's this weekend.

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post #12 of 62 Old 05-06-2016, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
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Went and got the front housing picked up last night, much better condition than the first one I got. Track bar bolt hole is a little worn out so I may weld a grade 8 washer to beef it up. Got a nice little suprise when I opened the diff though, spider gears were in more pieces than spider gears should be in. I inspected the ring and pinion and they seem to be ok miraculously so i got lucky there. I initially was just going to swap in the spiders from one of the other front ends I have collected. Then after a few margaritas at the local Mexican place (cinco de mayo) I ordered a spartan lunchbox locker and new axles seals. I figure I would have done it eventually so i don't have to tear it down again this way. I was hoping to get a bunch done this weekend but am involved in a charity event friday/saturday night that is going to take up a good part of the weekend.
Surprise I found in the diff.
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post #13 of 62 Old 05-08-2016, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Made some decent progress this weekend for how much I had going on. Got the floor pan cut out and all the rust coated in por 15. Driver pan is welded in and welds coated in por 15, still need to seam seal but its in there. Got the passenger seat bracket cut out and started going after the spot welds on the passenger panel.
coated with por 15
Holes drilled for the plug welds

Welded up

Again coated with por 15
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post #14 of 62 Old 05-10-2016, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Got the sidetracked from the floors. New locker came in last night and I was excited to get that in.


Wasn't able to take any pictures during the install/ cleaning up the housing due to greasy hands. The housing got cleaned up with brake clean and the tubes were cleaned by pushing a rag with a 33mm socket hooked up to an impact. Did a pretty decent job of getting out all of the gunk. Got new seals and the carrier installed last night though. Going to pick up some new hard ware and hopefully get the housing under the front of it tonight.
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post #15 of 62 Old 05-10-2016, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
lowrnu
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Had to cut my grass after work today, the yard was turning into a jungle. I did manage to weld up and redrill the holes on the track bar bracket. Hole location is withing a 1/16 inch of stock, im happy with that for the method I used. Cardboard cut and traced. Hole isn't perfect but I think im going to upgrade to a 7/16th bolt and ream the hole out to fit.
Bracket before

welded up

ground down

and re drilled
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