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01 XJ Limited First Time Build

6K views 109 replies 11 participants last post by  chris87xj 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello all!
This is my first time posting and registering but ive been looking and searching the forums for a while now!
im looking to lift my XJ 3" to give it a more aggressive look
but my delima is that I dont know what I may end up needing to do
my jeep is my DD and when I can afford it will put 31s on it
not looking to do Off-road only, but have the option to
I will mainly be driving highway

I know I will need longer brake lines, new shocks/coils
but any suggestions on what I should buy/use?

NOTE: my XJ is STOCK

thank you! and have a great day! :thumbsup:
 
#2 · (Edited)
Also after doing some research, I've found what I think to be what some of my specs are (taken directly from EricsXJ -Cherokee stock specs)

AXLE: Dana 35 c-clip - 27 spline, 1.18" diameter shafts, 7.58" ring gear, 2.62" axle tube - used 90-01
OR Chrysler 8.25 - 29 spline, 1.21" diameter shafts, 8.25" ring gear, 3" axle tube - used 97-01

DRIVESHAFT:
FRONT: 87-01 XJs (NP231/242 t-case) the front is a "double cardan" two-piece driveshaft with a CV joint at the transfer case end.
REAR: The rear is a one-piece shaft with standard u-joints at both ends. The slip yoke is located on the output shaft of the transfer
case. On 96-01 due to a design change, the slip yoke is external (does not slide in and out of the transfer case).
This slip yoke is covered with a rubber boot.

TRANSMISSION: AW4 - 4 speed automatic, electronically controlled - manufactured by Aisin - used from 87-01
(87-91 models include a Power/Comfort button that adjusts the shift points)
 
#3 ·
If I could start from scratch on my jeep again I would just leave it as is and save until I decided what I actually wanted to end up with and had the money to do it right the first time. I know personally how impossible it is to own a jeep and not throw money at it. Start with skid plates or bumpers.
 
#4 ·
I know, what im trying to get is a wider stance, lift it at MAX 3" for some added height
like I said, im not looking for extreme off-roading, as it'll be a DD
Just trying to get a feel for what i'll need to do ontop of a lift, like since im not doing much off-roading (and when I do nothing too extreme, very simple) would I need to replace my brake lines with longer ones?

im going to replace the shocks, coils when I lift it, not trying to do a simple shackle lift, if im going to do it I want it safe and to be done right the first time
is there anything else I should do? would I need adjustable control arms? or anything to help my jeep be SAFE while driving, the last thing I would want is to do it crappy and have something happen to me or anyone else
 
#5 ·
After a 3" lift you don't necessarily need anything but an alignment. Adjustable lower control arms would help you keep stock castor angle. Stock brake lines worked for me on 3". If you're worried about it get longer ones. Keep in mind not everybody has the same opinion on what's "right" for their jeep.
 
#6 ·
yeah understood, for me "right" is the wide stanced slightly taller then stock look for me

I just had brand new brake lines put in, so with 3" I shouldnt be too worried, right?
 
#7 ·
I would recommend you learn a little more about Jeeps. Knowing what rear axle you have is one of those things you may want to know before you look at ordering a lift. There are plenty of guides, including, if I remember correctly, a sticky in the tech forum. If you're only going about 3" in height, you probably won't need a SYE, so the type of read drive shaft you have isn't important, per se.

As far as wider, it's tough to go wider without changing out the axles. you can improve the look, and make it look wider, by getting wheels with more backspacing, but the increase isn't huge. You might get 1" or so, per side. you can also get a little wider look by putting a wider tire on a narrow wheel. a 31x10.50x15 will look a little wider on a 8" wheel then it will on a 10" wheel (I do no recommend putting that size tire on a 10" wheel).

There are a lot of pictures floating around. Find a jeep that looks like you want yours to look and find out what it takes to get there.
 
#9 ·
Your needs sound a lot like mine. I'm at 3" with 31's myself. Here's my experience:

At 3" I didn't have to do anything special to get rolling, just an alignment. After a month or so I installed a 1" transfer case drop but it wasn't necessary. Around the time I installed the TC drop I installed longer sway bar links. For what it costs, I think that's a pretty worthy addition to the lift project.

Retaining a comfortable ride might be a different story. A 3" lift with stock shackles will result in a hard ride as the shackle is more or less vertical. I'm looking at Liquid Iron Industries leaf sliders or HD Offroad no-lift relocation brackets to solve this problem. I'm also shopping for new lower control arms to retain my turning radius with the 31x10.5 tires on stock wheels. I don't have or absolutely need an SYE yet but it's on the list too.
 
#10 ·
Now that I think about it, I also needed an adjustable track bar relatively soon after I installed my lift. I started to have some minor death wobble issues that I hadn't experienced before the lift. I bought an adjustable double-shear track bar from Iron Rock Offroad, which solved my problem, though I continued to replace components as time allowed.
 
#11 ·
Yeah I just want stability and safety and also what I'd described
So I can get away with just an alignment and would possibly need lower control arms, sway bar link and maybe a differential drop?

Ill add new shackles aswell while I'm at it
Thanks for the info :thumbs:
 
#13 ·
ParkerXJ said:
Yeah I just want stability and safety and also what I'd described So I can get away with just an alignment and would possibly need lower control arms, sway bar link and maybe a differential drop? Ill add new shackles aswell while I'm at it Thanks for the info :thumbs:
The alignment is an absolute must. You may even need the adjustable track bar to get it aligned properly.

You don't want a differential drop (which probably isn't a thing), you want a transfer case drop. A lot of people will tell you that the TC drop is a temporary fix while you save up for an SYE. Whether that is true at 3" or not, I don't know.

Since you want a wider stance you will be needing new wheels so you might not need lower control arms at all.
 
#14 ·
Awesome! Thanks so much! Like I said I've read a lot on the forums but am no way a mechanical expert or even xj, but its all a learning curve! Just trying to get a feel for what I'm going to be getting into
Probably going to replace the coils too
And also looking for different rims
 
#15 ·
Honestly if DD'ing it with occassional offroad use is the plan, I would just do a 2" budget boost lift and 30x9.5 tires. That will give it a tougher look without any real side effects or rubbing issues. If you are wanting more from that setup, put the money toward a locker, add recovery points, skids.

If (when) I pick up a 2nd XJ to be a DD that is my intent. Keeping it simple is the name of the game on a DD.
 
#16 ·
Hm, alright ill keep that In mind! Thanks for the Input
Do you have a rough estimate on price? I know with 2" I won't need longer break lines
3" would've been iffy I think
 
#17 ·
It'd be dirt cheap, Id use 2" coil spacers up front (40-50 bucks) and an add a leaf out back. Places like Fat Bob's Garage on eBay usually pair those items together for less than 100 bucks shipped. At 2" you wont need any other supporting mods like taller lifts need. Great way to go for your needs.
 
#22 ·
I got started about 2 years ago and this is what I did:
3" lift: coils, leaves, shocks
Add-ons: adj. Track bar, longer sway links, 1" shackles(to fight the sag)
Tires: 31x10.50 BFG/AT's
Rims.15x10 w/ -19 offset (about 3.25"backspace)
The one thing I did that most others haven't is upper and lower control arms. This has allowed my front end to make much better use of the added flexibility, and to keep the front axle in it's proper place. Also the stock arms truly act as limiting straps and, due to the angle after lifting, will make the ride a lot rougher.
Brake lines: front lines have enuf extra already, in the front fender well you can pop the rubber grommet out of a bracket to achieve use of this added length. In the rear, I don't exactly recommend this, but I unbolted the T-box from the rear axle (2 years and no broken lines).
This all came to about $1300 not including the tires and rims.
 
#23 ·
Ok I'm going to just throw this out here.
If I were to do it as a dd only, I would look at some k1500 shackles and some coil spacers. I'd leave my shocks alone and run 31x10.5 in the bfg all terrain flavor or duratracks. Both are great on road an will handle nice. As far as wheeling I'd do some extended bump stops. Down the road I'd do an Iro double shear trackbar. The factory one sucks!

This is coming from some one who is rocking 3 inches of lift and 34s.
 
#27 ·
I did have one issue with the 31's on stock suspension. Any passengers and the back tires would rub. The 1" shackles were the first thing I added to solve that problem. I then found out the shackles I bought for $100+s&h, are identical to Ford Ranger shackles which can be gotten at the jy for way less.
 
#28 ·
Yeah I'm debating wether or not buying new leafs or just getting aal's
I'm definitely going to get a shackle, most likely a 1" for, as stated before, sag prevention
Probably won't go through with wheel spacers
 
#29 ·
I see spacers as just another 20 nuts to come loose and cause an unwanted result. I prefer the properly backspaced rims.
Now the AAL will likely sag sooner and worse than a new, longer set of leaf springs, kind of the same concept as replacing the control arms. To lift, you need a deeper arch to the same contact points. This requires a longer spring to be done properly. AAL's try to arch the spring while the distance it goes lays it flat all over again, kind of pointless.
 
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