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Unread 10-21-2013, 10:08 AM   #46
Maertz
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Rubis are 32 rear 30 front.. Other models are 27 front 30 rear i believe. Either way the flanges are the weak point usually

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Unread 10-21-2013, 10:36 AM   #47
ronjenx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maertz View Post
Rubis are 32 rear 30 front.. Other models are 27 front 30 rear i believe. Either way the flanges are the weak point usually
I guess I never noticed the front and rear lockers are not interchangeable.
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Unread 10-21-2013, 10:45 AM   #48
JIMBOX
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Heh Heh, I been telling you guys for YEARS-


Quote:
Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
Most people never see a dirt road. Few people will ever go where a Rubicon could go Off Road, in anything that new. Why the $$,$$$. take a rubicon were lockers gearing and the rest is needed it wont look new long.

but you are only looking at a small area . where you live and the circle of people you see. I see what you do not and I think I know were all those rubi's went. they wheel out west. I see new ones to older ones all the time. where? on trails rated 3.5-5 AZ. why? you wont make it with out at least what a rubicon brings to the plate or BETTER.

But I see MORE ruibs 4d's that never seemore than a class2 trail. God forbid it gets a scratch.
As much as I LOVE the Sierras, I admire you guys for the weather and street/off-road conditions you putup with, I couldn't standit so I'd leave-

Thats one of the reasons I got outta California, well 99% out-

For over 5 years my JKUR has trek'd the Rubi/ Fordyce and most of the Northern Sierras, without any rust---asof yet, so all my mods and running gear has been partly taken careof my "Mother Nature" help, that you people don't have-

My admiration and congradulations-to you off-roaders East of Nevada

Some of you may notice---I seldom dothis-

Smokemifyougotem

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Unread 10-21-2013, 11:38 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maertz View Post
Rubis are 32 rear 30 front.. Other models are 27 front 30 rear i believe. Either way the flanges are the weak point usually
Thanks. Must admit the damage I am most familiar with is race related and there we see the spline end twist and snap - or shred the splines taking the carrier out with it. Add to that knowledge base the only axle I have broken under torque climbing was at spline on a TJ Rubi (getting the broken spline out was a ***** but carrier survived) - I have seen a few others break theirs by hammering on the rocks (lack of mechanical sympathy and heavy foot - get a bigger running start and try again - lol) - but figured that was more impact related than torque - so I figured (and have been told by numerous other now obviously non knowledgeable people) - that spline count was the reason the D30 and D44 have different "maximum tire size".

So I guess opinion is that the d30 with heavy duty axles is just as strong internally from pinion yoke to tire contact as a stock d44? Now I wonder about the qualifications of the engineers at Jeep for even using a 44 anywhere...if the same 30 with HD axles would cover the whole fleet at lower expense. Or for that matter why DynaTrac chose the 44 for their "little warrior" when a 30 is MUCH less expensive...
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Unread 10-21-2013, 12:00 PM   #50
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The jk 44 is not the same as all older 44s.the dana 30 has the same knuckles and axle wall size. As stated the only diffrence is the pinion size. Essentially a built 30 is as strong as a prorock minus the ring and pinion strength. Essentially the jk 44 built would be as strong as a pro rock but slighlty less ground clearance and different castor options. Personally on the rear 44 ive seen tons of bent flanges on only 35s but have yet to see one break. Front axle shafts are a different story. On a 30 if you had same axle shafts and a locker not including the r&p yes they could be same strength. Yes imo you can build a 4r for way less if you do it yourself but if your going to why not do a 60? Especially when a 60 is when you can run true size 35 spline shafts. On a 44 (other than the prorock 44 hybrid) you would have to redo the knuckles. To many people just doing a few minor things to a rubi is worth it, for others that can weld and put time into it its not worth it value wise. All depends on what your doing and your mechanical ability.

See first post by dynatrac for info on the axle shafts

http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php?t=145127
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Unread 10-21-2013, 12:13 PM   #51
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Sounds like good arguments from all sides.
For me, I didnt like the JK's at first so didnt want to spend a lot of money. And I like to tinker with different things and setups so I bought a new 2008 JKU sport (manual) for $24,000 when dodge was going through all their financial issues. I have spent close to $28,000 in mods including pretty much replacing my original 4" lift, trying 35" tires and then switching to 37" tires, adding a super charger, etc... And with everything I have sold, I am probably closer to spending $26,000 for mods. So, all total I am at about $50,000 and it is PAID FOR! And i didnt finance a single mod. paid as i went. For me it doesnt make sense to finance all the mods that i can add as I get the money. But I can understand all sides and why people go RUBI and why they dont. Jeep on!
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Unread 10-21-2013, 01:26 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maertz View Post
The jk 44 is not the same as all older 44s.the dana 30 has the same knuckles and axle wall size. As stated the only diffrence is the pinion size. Essentially a built 30 is as strong as a prorock minus the ring and pinion strength. Essentially the jk 44 built would be as strong as a pro rock but slighlty less ground clearance and different castor options. Personally on the rear 44 ive seen tons of bent flanges on only 35s but have yet to see one break. Front axle shafts are a different story. On a 30 if you had same axle shafts and a locker not including the r&p yes they could be same strength. Yes imo you can build a 4r for way less if you do it yourself but if your going to why not do a 60? Especially when a 60 is when you can run true size 35 spline shafts. On a 44 (other than the prorock 44 hybrid) you would have to redo the knuckles. To many people just doing a few minor things to a rubi is worth it, for others that can weld and put time into it its not worth it value wise. All depends on what your doing and your mechanical ability.

See first post by dynatrac for info on the axle shafts

http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php?t=145127
I agree that the D44JK is not as strong as a traditional D44, which is why my OCD makes me type D44JK vs D44 - they're two different animals altogether. That's because they have computer models nowadays to let them know exactly where they can scrimp and save to meet the bare minimum specifications - the old D44 is a tank vs the new D44JK. That being said, the D30JK is actually a pretty strong, light axle assembly compared to the old style D30's. However, due to the JK's weight and the average desired tire size - combined with a need/want to go offroad - they're not up to snuff IMHO.

I'll have to disagree about built-up JK axles being as strong as the ProRock or Tera44 - everything on an aftermarket axle assembly is design-built to be stronger: from the housing, covers, bearing caps, tubes, inner Cs, ground contact points, control arm mounts, perch mounts, you-name-it. And, in reality, for the price: if you had to buy a Dana 44JK axle assembly - build it up, and regear it - it would be just as expensive (if not more) as buying one of those aftermarket beauties. And the D44JK would also weigh a ton and not have nearly the same strength.

However, I'll agree that building up a D30JK or D44JK is necessary to play around.
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Unread 10-21-2013, 01:33 PM   #53
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I have to agree on the mounts and all being stronger, but that statement on a BUILT jk 44 being comparable strength wise came direct from dynatrac. But imo dynatrac will win all day with the mounts/adjusted castor and ground clearance. Plus a sweet dif cover.

I also agree the older 44s are totally different. My buddy runs one on his yj and its 1/2 wall and bigger knuckles. Its all around more stout

I will also agree as i said before depends on your ability and what you want to do. If you can do all the work it's significantly less to junkyard the axle and build
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Unread 10-21-2013, 02:12 PM   #54
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Thanks! Very informative.
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Unread 10-21-2013, 03:52 PM   #55
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1. Too much money

2. My truck is more capable.
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Unread 10-21-2013, 03:52 PM   #56
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So...this started as why more people don't buy Rubis and ended up a technical argument. Doc was being insulting and the thread blew up from there.

Bottom line,most Rubi owners will agree. We paid more so we don't have to mod some stuff later. Out of the dealership, it suits my needs. There are tons of awesome jeeps to choose from. I just wanted one that was not over the top but ready to go out of the box.

I had an option for one with a factory lift, bumpers,winch etc. it was sitting there ready to go..,.but at $54k I wasn't ready. Lol
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Unread 10-21-2013, 04:01 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NIUPonyBoy View Post
1. Too much money

2. My truck is more capable.
Was your truck named 4x4 of the decade?
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Unread 10-21-2013, 05:37 PM   #58
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Pretty much all the reasons have already been written. We have a 2008 JKU X model and a 2013 JK Sport model and we went with light options on both because we don't do any rock crawling or off-roading that justifies all the add-ons that come with the Rubicon. That's just our use and it seems that the majority of people are like us. We venture on fire trails, but seldom are locking diffs and swaybar disconnects needed, nor the crawl ratio and Dana 44.

Also, I sit on my azz all week for work, so the idea of using my weekend to sit in a vehicle and wheel over rocks is not very exciting. I'd rather get off my butt and play sports or go biking.
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Unread 10-21-2013, 06:11 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IH8PEPL View Post
Was your truck named 4x4 of the decade?
It can't make a zero point U turn without five traffic lanes. More capable must mean something different in Wisconsin.
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Unread 10-21-2013, 06:14 PM   #60
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Quote:
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It can't make a zero point U turn without five traffic lanes. More capable must mean something different in Wisconsin.
Hey now im from Wisco....
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