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Unread 10-20-2013, 11:45 AM   #16
AlbertaJeeper
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Rubi is awesome for a real "dual purpose" option. You can wheel one stock or build it to be friendly on the roads, and still have the 4:1 on the trails. If you're going to the trouble of putting something that low (atlas) into a sport there is likely a bunch of other mods going on as well to make it more of a pure off road machine.

I got my Rubicon because I could lump the t case and lockers into the financing and not have to worry about them later. I don't have the money right now or the geography to go super big, but I do drive down to Moab every year (2100 km each way). So for me it makes the most sense to have a mostly stock vehicle on the highway, but some nice toys to play with on the rocks once I get there!

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Unread 10-20-2013, 11:46 AM   #17
panthermark
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Because "most" JK's are not wheeled hard, and a Sport or Sahara is probably far more Jeep than most people will ever need. (Remember, forums are full of off-roaders)

I picked a Sahara over a Rubi based on how I would actually USE the vehicle as opposed to paying more money for parts I would not need, while at the same time getting less performance in the areas that I actually care about.

I'm on pavement 99.9% of the time. AT tires and LSD are far more beneficial to me than MT tires and open diff/lockers. I'll spend more time on slick and icy roads than rocks. Edisco's and a 4:1 transfer case are nice...but not needed.

For the occasional light wheeling that I do, a stock Sahara is MORE than enough.







I would have considered a Rubi if they were like the TJ's and had both lockers AND LSD. But there was no way I was giving up LSD so I could pay more money for the sticker on the side. If I'm in 2HI most of the time (as a daily driver), a Sahara or Sport is a better (and cheaper) option for me.

Now if I lived out west...where mountains and stuff where 2 hours away.....that would be a different story.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 11:55 AM   #18
rayder1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 222Doc
Really? add it up first. You wheel much? You will not make a sport a con for 8k. Unless you are a real mechanic. Most people that buy a new sport have no more money to go big latter too. First look at the new Con with 4:10 gears/lockers. You can mount 35"s and smoke them out of the hole.? NO gears needed. You can not get 4:10 in any other model. 4:1 low. unless you are trying to make a weak Rubi why would you go with the Rubi 4:1. You must be talking Atlas. add another 3K(no labor) Now if you are going to the "Hammers" and need to run class 5(our hardest) trails. You really do not even want a JEEP. forget it. they just are not worth it. Build a rock Buggy and tow it there...... no offense,,,,,,,,,
I'm going to wholeheartedly disagree with you. Read through the forums here. Tons of people here are doing just that. They buy a base model and mod it. Many many forum posts say exactly what i did about tossing expensive Rubi parts. I'm not talking out my butt, I'm repeating what I've read here a couple dozen times.

And to answer your insult, yes I wheel plenty. Been wheeling since my first jeep in '87. I bought the Rubicon because I didn't feel like modding out a bare bones model. I'm going to lift it soon and go up a couple tire sizes when the stock tires wear out...and that's all.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 12:02 PM   #19
Maertz
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Gotta agree with doc here. The lockers and a d44 and transfer case and gears will add up fast. Only way i see your side if you junkyard the axles and all the work yourself, which most jk owners dont seem to do nowdays. You may spend the same or more, but if you do it yourself you will have a better rig than rubi.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 12:15 PM   #20
2Five22
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I see them all the time in Arizona. Even in my driveway.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 12:26 PM   #21
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Personal choice-

I bought my Rubi in Oct/08-and I've modified it every month since then-

I've kept 90% of the Rubi equip, the only Rubi parts I've discarded are the stock springs/LCAs/Diff. gears/wheels/tires/shocks/bumpers/rear headrests-

It's a RUBICON and I'm proud ofit !

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Unread 10-20-2013, 12:39 PM   #22
MoonyJohn
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Mainly cost for me.. Found a good deal on a Sahara with low miles and I wasnt dishing out 500+ monthly payments!

Being "out west", the LSD rear is a huge deal for me being that I drive up to the mountain every weekend during the winters for snowboarding. I am even considering going with a LSD add into the front 30 just because it would benefit me plenty. A rubi would be nice to have the 44 up front, but personally I like my Sahara. And my mod list is far, doesnt mean that since I drive a non rubi doesnt mean I cant wheel it

Ive followed rubi's, both tj and jk.. and have outwheeled them both in my WJ and my JK. Its just a sticker name in some cases so to me it wasnt worth the extra cash per month.

To each their own
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Unread 10-20-2013, 12:52 PM   #23
Freemaniz
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I have a brand new 2014 Fully Loaded Rubi. heated seats, heated mirrors,730 navi, every available option, $46k!!!! As soon as its paid off im going to go buy a sport that is a few yrs old. I dont want to do anything to it cause its so nice. i dont want to drill cut or change anything. maybe thats y ppl go ahead and get the sport. so they dont feel bad molesting it, and making it there own.

also dont forget about the dealers who add aftermarket bumpers bars and armor wheels, if they did that to a rubi it would be a $80k vehicle so theres alot of ppl out here with dealer tricked out jeeps that bought them that way
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Unread 10-20-2013, 01:09 PM   #24
73azbronco
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Cost.

Depends where you are.

A rubi in AZ is like a Mercedes, they are everywhere.

Scottsdale dealer bought every Rubicon he could get their hands on, I think over thirty, they will sit on them and make a sweet profit.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 01:23 PM   #25
jwmbishop
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Its the $$$ compared to how hard they plan to wheel. Moderate wheelers are fine with less, medium to semi rough are fine with rubi - but to rock slam (which don't get me wrong I have the scars to prove stock Rubi can do some things that even a built sport couldn't) - you probably ARE better off starting with a sahara or sport because you end up with stronger stuff for just a bit more than the Rubi with armor and accessories added.

I chose the Rubi as it is not as common so even before being accessorized it helps draw eyes to my marks prominently displayed on the windows and in my color scheme. I bought as a company vehicle, built it to perform as well as look good. It works QUITE well at getting attention. I only need it to haul my work gear three to four months out of the year - nov to feb. after that it would just sit there so I sold it (to get the capital back into my business), with a lease back on a per month plus per mile lease. The lessor runs it a couple places a year (minus my marks) - and we each fix our own damage.

Its just a sweet side effect that I DO wheel with friends - a group trip once a year - the Jeep Jamboree @ Rubicon. I went four times with a friend in his well built TJ Rubi, then rented a jeep one year at Moab to "extended test drive the JK" - lol - before buying my own. I wheel a park or two when time permits but not a lot. And since I trailer - the Rubicon Trail costs me 63.75 (.80 per mile) on the lease!

4:1 lo with lockers right out of the box made it quick (and pretty damn easy) to get a rig on the trail when I decided to go... other than that if time and money were no object - I'd build my own 8" stretch CJ from the floor up.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 01:29 PM   #26
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Unread 10-20-2013, 01:35 PM   #27
JTPhoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maertz
Gotta agree with doc here. The lockers and a d44 and transfer case and gears will add up fast. Only way i see your side if you junkyard the axles and all the work yourself, which most jk owners dont seem to do nowdays. You may spend the same or more, but if you do it yourself you will have a better rig than rubi.
D44 means squat. Just a bit bigger ring and pinion, housing is the same strength. Rubi Electric lockers meh, if I wanted lockers I'd instal real ones. The only benefit I see is the Rubi transfer case and that's about it. So realistically, buying a Sport and modding it to match a Rubi is cheaper. However, buying a Sahara not so much. A loaded Sahara will price out just below a Rubicon. I believe there is only a couple K difference at best between their 2 base models.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 02:30 PM   #28
JohnRodriguez
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for the extra cost of rubi, you could get a set of loaded dynatrac axles, which are way stronger than factory. sway bar disconnect is not worth it and the 4:1 transfer case is kind of worthless unless your rock crawling. better off having a atlas rubi crawler installed.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 02:34 PM   #29
AlbertaJeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRodriguez View Post
for the extra cost of rubi, you could get a set of loaded dynatrac axles, which are way stronger than factory. sway bar disconnect is not worth it and the 4:1 transfer case is kind of worthless unless your rock crawling. better off having a atlas rubi crawler installed.
But there is a major difference between 5-8000 in cash for parts and 5-8000 extra on the principal for a loan! If I recall, For mine it worked out as every extra 1000 was about 10 more biweekly. And rubicrawler can only work for up to 2011 autos
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Unread 10-20-2013, 02:39 PM   #30
krawler510
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I'd love to know where you can get two loaded Dynatrac axles for $8,000....

Edit: Eh, I guess ProRock 44s are close.
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