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Unread 01-21-2014, 01:30 PM   #1
BlueBabySound
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Upgrade dilemma

Swallowing my pride here and admitting I didn't do enough research the first time.

So here's my dilemma. 7 months ago I bought my wife a new 2013 JKU Sport S. I've always researched my purchases and the Sport fit all of our needs at the time. Then we went wheeling......once......now we're hooked.

The upgrade list has hit the 10k mark and I'm thinking WHY would I spend this money on a sport with a D30, no lockers, etc. Secondly she now wishes she had gone for an auto instead of a manual.

My thought is, take the hit now, get a rubicon then start the build. I'm looking at a 2,000 - 4,000 loss on my vehicle depending on if I can find a buyer or if I trade it in.

So..... Trade now?

Agree or disagree??

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Unread 01-21-2014, 01:49 PM   #2
EGLESCT
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Personally, unless you have a garage and are planning on doing the majority of the work, I'd trade it in for a Rubicon. That way you have the upgrades right then and there, and don't have to locate, replace, and wait for the upgrades to be done.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 01:55 PM   #3
Zombi
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Have you found wheeling terrain where you regularly NEED $10,000 worth of upgrades?

A stock wrangler is a very capable vehicle and unless you're routinely getting stuck, imo, you'd be better off keeping it that way until you find a need.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 02:06 PM   #4
BlueBabySound
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We normally keep our vehicles 10 years/200,000 miles. I want to build it once and do it right.
Lift
Front/rear bumpers/winch
tires/wheels
armor/fenders
To do decent brands = 10k
And still no lockers and a d30

From our last excursion I believe that will be the minimum amount for what we want to do.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 02:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueBabySound View Post
We normally keep our vehicles 10 years/200,000 miles. I want to build it once and do it right.
Lift
Front/rear bumpers/winch
tires/wheels
armor/fenders
To do decent brands = 10k
And still no lockers and a d30

From our last excursion I believe that will be the minimum amount for what we want to do.
Rubicon doesn't really get you any of those. Looks to me like you are looking at 10k either way.

All depends on your plans. If the things you are paying for in a Rubicon are going to get swapped out then better to stay with the Sport. If keeping the Rubicon things then they are worth it.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 02:40 PM   #6
Lovemachine
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I'm probably wrong, but wouldn't it be cheaper to keep the sport, and install an ARB locker in the rear? It's a D44 rear axle, correct?
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Unread 01-21-2014, 02:51 PM   #7
BlueBabySound
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Rubicon doesn't really get you any of those. Looks to me like you are looking at 10k either way.

All depends on your plans. If the things you are paying for in a Rubicon are going to get swapped out then better to stay with the Sport. If keeping the Rubicon things then they are worth it.
Absolutely correct, 10k no matter what. Would have to add lockers and a d44 to the sport and would still be stuck with a manual instead of auto.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 02:52 PM   #8
BlueBabySound
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I'm probably wrong, but wouldn't it be cheaper to keep the sport, and install an ARB locker in the rear? It's a D44 rear axle, correct?
I know I could build a sport to = or be greater than a Rubi, but I would still have a manual instead of the auto. I guess that's the big thing I can't overcome.
And yes d44 in the rear
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Unread 01-21-2014, 02:57 PM   #9
222Doc
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trade off a new for a newer to go HC wheeling.? It don't take much to need lockers unless wheeling is dirt roads. is it paid off?

Some advantage in to days rubi auto with 4:10. 35"s its ready excepting some lift.


I run with a few clubs trails here are 1-5 at 3.5 its starting HC core. meaning lockers or stay home. Now wheeling on 3.5 and up has another cost when lockers are needed in rock body damage is inches away, flops are waiting for you. I run mainly Az3.5 up to and have found anything over 4.25 is something that most people will be on Jeeps that are on trailers. It hurts your jeep more than you might want a DD to see much of. things like ball joints and all steering systems will fail in short time on a stock Jk seeing much trail time on 35"s go bigger and watch how fast stuff breaks.

Nice jk set up is 33/35 lockers on 3 or more lift. You need to get the belly up and a Jk is just to expensive to belly up for 97% of the people that have a jk let alone a new one. you get fairly good mpg for a Jeep on 35"s and still have power.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 03:17 PM   #10
Zombi
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Originally Posted by BlueBabySound View Post
stuck with a manual instead of auto.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueBabySound View Post
I would still have a manual instead of the auto. I guess that's the big thing I can't overcome.
Sounds to me like your mind is already set.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 03:34 PM   #11
BlueBabySound
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You're correct, I'm leaning towards biting the bullet and trading it. Happy wife, happy life. And that's worth a couple of grand.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 04:10 PM   #12
biffgnar
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Originally Posted by BlueBabySound View Post
Absolutely correct, 10k no matter what. Would have to add lockers and a d44 to the sport and would still be stuck with a manual instead of auto.
Nothing wrong with auto. In fact, many who would suggest it is better offroad.
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Unread 01-22-2014, 09:37 AM   #13
JoonHoss
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I would try to talk you out of taking that loss all day long. The money you lose on trade in PLUS the upgrades are probably enough to buy a whole other Jeep (TJ) already built. Financially, it's a terrible decision.

That said; the only thing you couldn't change for a reasonable price is the trans, so if you are stuck on that point, the rest of the conversation is moot.

If you do decide to buy another, be sure to go to the original dealership you bought from, and talk with a sales manager. Tell him direct what you are wanting to do, and ask them if they are willing to deal with you. Get the numbers, and then shop around. Also, don't be afraid to look for a used model; you may be able to get what you want, and save some coin. Even if you only save a couple grand, you could use that to buy an extended lifetime warranty. If you won't/don't need the warranty, or think you'll void it with all your mods, buy used anyways, beacuase it won't matter, and you'll still save some money vs. New

Regardless- good luck in your decision



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Unread 01-22-2014, 11:01 AM   #14
irnmadn88
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Is there much difference in a now used 2013 JKU Sport w/manual and a 2012 or slightly older JKU w/auto and the desired equipment in terms of price?

Without looking at the real numbers, I would think that getting an older JKU with some miles on it might pencil out across the board. You are still out the depreciation going from new to used, but it may minimize the overall loss on trade.
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Unread 01-22-2014, 12:42 PM   #15
BlueBabySound
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Good input, thanks guys!
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