Tips n' Tricks: Removing Your Wrangler Doors - Avoid Seized/Stuck Door Pins -

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post #1 of 10 Old 05-26-2013, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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Tips n' Tricks: Removing Your Wrangler Doors - Avoid Seized/Stuck Door Pins

Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant assures easier disassembly.

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Canada - Nat'l Capital Region
Know your angles before approaching obstacles and
follow the general rule of off-roading, "Go as slow as you can, as fast as you must."
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Last edited by TrailRated2011; 05-26-2013 at 07:58 AM. Reason: minor edit
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post #2 of 10 Old 05-26-2013, 09:29 AM
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I have found that it helps to have the door at a 90-degree angle to the centerline of the Jeep when going on or off.

It also helps to have help.

On the TJ, Chrysler made one pin longer than the other, so the whole process was a lot easier. When they designed the JK, I reckon the bean counters determined that they could save .5 cents per unit by eliminating that small detail. Rat Bas2766s!

" Leave the gun .... take the cannolis. "
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post #3 of 10 Old 05-26-2013, 10:53 PM
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I found that is best to remove them. Then leave them off, for good. Heck mine are getting to be like the rest of stuff i removed from this Jeep. soon I may have two Jeeps at this rate one day. My 66 never had real doors any way. Just soft doors. I got soft doors for my Rubi now and no need for hard doors and all the fuss to remove those heavy a$$ things all the time. The soft doors that can be half doors are very nice.
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post #4 of 10 Old 05-27-2013, 07:22 AM
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My method:

Whatever is in my grease gun. Smear a dab on each pin when I put the full doors on every fall.

Each spring, the doors come right off. Total cost for 7 years of door removals..$0.00
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post #5 of 10 Old 06-25-2013, 07:29 PM
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Just found a new method that worked pretty good. I had a set of the forearm forklifts and tried one on my stuck doors. It allows you to get a lot more leverage when you are twisting and lifting upward at the same time. Not saying to go out and buy a set but if you have em its worth a shot. Also makes it easy to carry em around.
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-26-2013, 07:45 AM
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Graphite would work great too.

If it's not supposed to move and does use duct tape.
If it's supposed to move and doesn't use WD40
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-26-2013, 09:43 AM
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My Method was to buy Mopar half doors and be done with it

I have attention defiiiii hey is that a rabbit?

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Trust people who like big butts they cannot lie...
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-26-2013, 10:14 AM
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Derlin hinge bushings. No rust, no grease mess.
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-27-2013, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mike_dippert View Post
Derlin hinge bushings. No rust, no grease mess.
I concur. Did mine a few weeks ago and couldn't be happier. I put a little grease on the pins just for rust protection.

"War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things..."
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post #10 of 10 Old 07-03-2013, 05:54 PM
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I prefer the Delrin door bushings too, if you factory bushings are in good shape use a little grease or anti seize to prolong the life of the factory bushing and keep your door pins from rusting
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