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Unread 11-25-2008, 11:36 AM   #16
NJHCx4xLIFE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2jhanna View Post
if you really want to track $$'s, wait and do it when you need an oil change, then you have not spent $ for oil.
Funny you mention that... I had my seals done about 2 weeks after a giving the jeep a mobil 1 oil change. It was leaking pretty good and I wanted to get it done to stop the leak. the 400 I paid included oil so it wasn't the end of the world. i'm pretty sure my switch to synthetic in the first place cleaned out he crud and caused the leak since that was the first ime I put synthetic in and it leaked pretty good shortly after.

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Unread 11-25-2008, 11:45 AM   #17
Nonya
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Most of you probab;y won't like to hear this BUTT the number one reason for rear oil main seals leaks is from switching oil brands.Usually if you stick with it for a few oil changes the chemistry balances and the seal will stop leaking.The seal is sensitive to the oil its been exposed to its entire life,change that chemistry and it may leak.Gotta give it time to change.

My 98 was dry when i bought it BUTT after changing oil it started to leak quite a bit.I just watched the level and let it leak.Now after quite a few miles and oil changes it is completely dry.It needed time to change to the new oils chemistry.
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Unread 11-25-2008, 12:18 PM   #18
jeepster93
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Did it myself in a Saturday, a month ago.
Cost was:
new seal=$16
Oil pan gasket- $25
Sealant-$12( this in NOT used on the oil pan except in 2 1 inch spots by the timing chain!!!) It is also for 2 small(real small, like a dot) spots on the new seal. Don't buy much.
Oil/filter-$40 I use Mobil1

The hardest part was moving the exhaust out of the way. A pain.
And it is a dirty job, lots of dripping oil. Use a drop cloth.
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Unread 11-27-2008, 11:41 AM   #19
southernss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nonya View Post
Most of you probab;y won't like to hear this BUTT the number one reason for rear oil main seals leaks is from switching oil brands.Usually if you stick with it for a few oil changes the chemistry balances and the seal will stop leaking.The seal is sensitive to the oil its been exposed to its entire life,change that chemistry and it may leak.Gotta give it time to change.

My 98 was dry when i bought it BUTT after changing oil it started to leak quite a bit.I just watched the level and let it leak.Now after quite a few miles and oil changes it is completely dry.It needed time to change to the new oils chemistry.

funny you mention that i dont know if this is coinsidence or what. jeep i just recently purchased did not seem to have any leaks and i just changed the oil and used mobil 1 because this is what i use in all my vehicles and i am sure the pr did not use mobil 1. now i have a leak but the jeep does not leak when it has been sitting i dont not drive it yet because its to cold in the mornings and my new top has not come in yet. but ever other day or so when i crank it to let it run a pretty significant amount of oil will come out almost like it is puddling up in the bottom of the bell housing them come out when the engine is started i would assume this is also the rear main leaking because the area around the valve cover seem to be dry.
[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by southernss; 11-27-2008 at 12:03 PM..
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Unread 06-24-2009, 10:46 AM   #20
gasapple
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotmyJK View Post
Just an FYI for folks with a 2000 TJ on the rear main seal. My 2000 Tj was a late build and some of the parts required are from a 2001. The rear main for the 2000 I6 is a double lip seal and cost $16. The 2001 is a single lip seal that cost $31. I pulled the oil pan off and spun the old seal out only to realize that the new one would not work. Of course all the parts stores were closed by then!
I know this is an "old" thread, but I appreciate your insight with regard to the RMS. I've a late build 2000 and was about to kick off this project myself! So thanks!
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Unread 06-24-2009, 11:29 AM   #21
SpoiledRotten
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I'm hoping mine will stop leaking. It's not much, but it did start shortly after changing to synthetic. I changed back on the next oil change to Rotella 10w30, the same oil I use in my 7.3 PSD.
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Unread 06-24-2009, 12:36 PM   #22
Jeepguy1977
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I'm guessing that removing the exhaust is only necessary on the later TJs?
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Unread 06-24-2009, 02:28 PM   #23
lumpster
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southernss, you have had a significant leak for a while, there is alot of built up oil and grime from the looks of that picture.
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Unread 06-24-2009, 06:56 PM   #24
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JEEP TJs DON'T LEAK,

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepguy1977 View Post
I'm guessing that removing the exhaust is only necessary on the later TJs?
That's what I'm thinking... I've the 2000 TJ i6 with a Gibson cat-back and it looks like I'll be able to drop the oil pan out to get to the RMS. Not absolutely certain though.


Also, is it relatively easy to differentiate a valve cover gasket leak from a RMS? I read somewhere that if it's quarter-sized to half-dollar sized drops of oil it's RMS 99% of the time - seem like a reasonable deduction to those experienced here? I havent been able to locate any valve cover issues... Just want to ensure it's the RMS before I get started.
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Unread 06-24-2009, 08:13 PM   #25
lokua
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did this on my wife's grand cherokee. it was kinda scary goin in cuz u can see the engines guts and stuff. but even me knowing not a whole lot more than i read here did the rms, oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket in 5-6 hours. didnt have to remove the exhaust tho just spent about an extra hour figuring out the evil puzzle of what way to twist and bend the pan to get it out and in. prolly not possible tho seeing how it is on my tj. i say take the plunge and do it yourself of you are tight on cash and have turned a wrench before
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Unread 06-26-2009, 06:19 AM   #26
NotmyJK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasapple View Post
I know this is an "old" thread, but I appreciate your insight with regard to the RMS. I've a late build 2000 and was about to kick off this project myself! So thanks!
No problem! If I remember right, I had to drop the exaust to get the pan off so I wanted to replace the pipe to cat gasket. That also required a 2001 gasket.

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Unread 06-26-2009, 06:45 AM   #27
rsalerno
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I know guys who have sprayed brake cleaner up there towards the seal and got it to stop leaking. changed oil and stuff later and still no more leak. (although they did not have as much crud as the above photo has)
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Unread 06-26-2009, 10:15 AM   #28
Mtnduey
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$700 is absolute insanity

$400 is about right though, only b/c it's a time consuming process to pull off the oil pan, clean the gasket off and re-seal the bloody thing when you're done. Anyone who's done a few of these can tell you it doesn't take long to replace it once you're in there but if you dont do it right you can F* up your engine.

Too bad you don't have a good Jeep shop near by. Back when I lived in Colorado there were some great Jeep and 4x4 shops that could do these in their sleep and didn't charge much for it either.
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Unread 06-26-2009, 11:29 AM   #29
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Correct me if Im wrong but dont you have to drop the tranny and go at it from the other side to change the RMS on the 4 banger?
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Unread 06-26-2009, 11:43 AM   #30
patricknolan
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My friend did this an he wasnt techincal savy enough to 6 months before hand to instal a simple budget boost. Id be willing to bet you could tackle it yourself.
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