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Unread 06-12-2013, 11:26 AM   #1
AJeep
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Building a trailer

Been reading thread after thread on how to build a trailer. I have some pretty good ideas of what I want. Now I'm just trying to come up with a basic over all cost. I found complete axles with hubs and the hitch style I want. Now I don't want to get ripped off when buying steel. I want 2x2x1/8" thick. what should I expect to pay? I'm here in California and want just an idea of what I should be looking to pay. Just don't want to be a sucker and pay more than I should, LOL. How much a foot?

Thanks for the help.

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Unread 06-12-2013, 11:28 AM   #2
RnEmOvr
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Price is going to vary depending where you live. Call a few local shops and ask around. Also what are your plans with said trailer?
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Unread 06-12-2013, 12:00 PM   #3
AJeep
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It going to carry camping stuff, ice chest, Water, and ect. Have not determined the final dimensions. But will fit 33" tires with a 3500# axle.

I will finish the design and then start calling around.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 12:10 PM   #4
RnEmOvr
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Axel is over kill. I want build thread LOL.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 12:54 PM   #5
AJeep
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Axle is over kill, I realize that. Although it should last a long time. This will be my first build from scratch, so I am excited about it.

Does anyone know anything about Mchitch-uniglide? http://mchitch.com.au/shop/index.php...products_id=35
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Unread 06-12-2013, 01:15 PM   #6
RnEmOvr
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Wonder what the rating is on that and how stable that would be on the road.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 01:19 PM   #7
Unlimited04
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I made my own trailer, and had 3500lbs trailer axle w/ brakes custom made....works good.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 01:52 PM   #8
AJeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
I made my own trailer, and had 3500lbs trailer axle w/ brakes custom made....works good.
Did you make the trailer for offroading and are the trailer brakes worth the extra coin?
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Unread 06-12-2013, 01:57 PM   #9
AJeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RnEmOvr View Post
Wonder what the rating is on that and how stable that would be on the road.
The one I was looking at is rated for 2 tons.

Here a video I was watch with it. Seems pretty smooth.
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...=mchitch+video
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Unread 06-12-2013, 04:16 PM   #10
raisin
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I built one with a 3,500 lb axle also. Here are a few of the lessons learned/unsolicited suggestions.
1. order your axle to match your jeep tire width.
2. use the same size tires as your pull jeep.
3. buy fenders that meet your state legal requirements, building from scratch is a pain.
4. decide everything you need it to haul and build it to 10% bigger.
5. I use the Military style towing pintle, cheap and effective. Butit is noisey and is harder to back up when it is offroad.
6. Make sure you can build it to your states registration and title requirements. And your willing to do that extra work.
7. Design it to protect the lights, wiring and that it wont get snagged on rocks..
8. make the base frame stout if you are dragging over rockes, the upper frame supports can be lighter.
9. put drain plugs/holes in it.
10. Design it and put it on paper. Let all your friends look at it and get their input. Try to build it right the first time, changing your mind can get expensive. You can always add things to a well built trailer.
11. Put a roof top tent on it if you plan on camping, trust me, they are awesome.
I have about $2,000 in mine minus the Tent. My BIL (engineer type) has about $5,000 in his, but it is awesome.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 04:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raisin View Post
I built one with a 3,500 lb axle also. Here are a few of the lessons learned/unsolicited suggestions.
1. order your axle to match your jeep tire width.
2. use the same size tires as your pull jeep.
3. buy fenders that meet your state legal requirements, building from scratch is a pain.
4. decide everything you need it to haul and build it to 10% bigger.
5. I use the Military style towing pintle, cheap and effective. Butit is noisey and is harder to back up when it is offroad.
6. Make sure you can build it to your states registration and title requirements. And your willing to do that extra work.
7. Design it to protect the lights, wiring and that it wont get snagged on rocks..
8. make the base frame stout if you are dragging over rockes, the upper frame supports can be lighter.
9. put drain plugs/holes in it.

10. Design it and put it on paper. Let all your friends look at it and get their input. Try to build it right the first time, changing your mind can get expensive. You can always add things to a well built trailer.
11. Put a roof top tent on it if you plan on camping, trust me, they are awesome.
I have about $2,000 in mine minus the Tent. My BIL (engineer type) has about $5,000 in his, but it is awesome.
All of this is excellent advice...I'll add a little to it..

1. Absolutely...mine is the same width as the jeep, therefore, it'll go where the jeep goes. I did a #1500 to start with. On the first trip out I put a side load on it on both sides. By this I mean as I went over a large rock with one tire the loaded trailer had a lot of weight on the opposite side. This resulted in the spindle bending. Picture an old swing axle VW beetle. After replacing with a #3500 there have been no more issues.
2. Yep..and bolt pattern too. You can get the trailer hubs in 5x4.5. I used 33x10.50x15 BFG ATs.
3. I bought the fenders at TSC and trimed a few inches off each end.
4. I had a size in mind when I did mine. It came out t 44x68. Has a fold town tail gate too.
5. Look at my pics for the hitch. I used a receiver and have multiple hitch options. Pintle, ball, farm implement. Depends on what I'm using it for at that particuliar time.
6. Not too difficult to do at all.
7. I used oval LED tails and all wiring is routed to avoid any snags etc.
8. Yes. My main frame rails are 2x4 rectangular tubing. All other tubing is 1/8 wall 1 3/4 square. Inside panels are 1/8 sheet and Rhino lined.
9. Drain holes make clean up much easier.
10. Ideas from friends are always good when planning.





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Link to my Hemi build thread http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/so...rsion-1277803/
YouTube video..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaDRq...&feature=g-upl
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Unread 06-12-2013, 08:16 PM   #12
bigwahini
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I find this thread to be very informative but in the wrong place.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 08:22 PM   #13
99_TJ_Wyoming
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A basic rule when buying steel (nothing exotic, just plain old steel) is your going to pay about $1/lb. I have been buying a lot of steel lately, everything from 2x4 channel to various angle to 2x2x10' solid bar stock, it always averages out to $1 per pound no matter what it is.

A really good idea is buy someones old cast aside junker trailer and rebuild it, the axles can be widened or shortened and trailer frames are very easy to modify, also you can buy someones old trailer for pennies a pound and usually the axles are serviceable.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 08:25 PM   #14
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJeep View Post
Did you make the trailer for offroading and are the trailer brakes worth the extra coin?
yes, and yes.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 09:57 PM   #15
AJeep
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Those are all great points. Im in no hurry and just started putting the base frame design on paper. Im willing to take any other advice i can get.
I figure ill build it in stages. Set the main frame up, axle and hitch. Then start the basket i want it to be 4x5.5 and 18 deep.
My research shows a tj track width (outside drum to outdise drum) is about 60-61". Is this correct?
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