[BillySue]

Hi, Everyone - surely there is a search feature on this site but I didn't see it. So I apologize if this has been discussed before.

I do my own mechanic work when I can. The electronics are beyond me, but an engine overhaul isn't. But I tend to break all those electrical connection doo-dads. I have a good shop for someone who doesn't make a living doing automotive mechanics.

My 1994 Jeep Wrangler, which I love, pops out of 4th gear immediately when I come off the clutch. I bet my last dollar it is a linkage problem. I have the "Chilton" manual but it is pretty weak with respect to the transmission. There isn't even an exploded diagram of the tranny. I miss the completeness of the IT service manuals I have for my tractors.

From what I have read, the 5-speed manual transmission has a linkage rather than yolks that operate from the gear shift level like an Allis-Chalmers tractor.

My question is: What is the most efficient way to access the shifl linkage on the 5-speed transmission (1994 Wrangler)?

Many thanks!

BillySue
Cherokee County, Oklahoma

[Mean Max]

You may have a bad syncro. I have rebuilt multiple AX-15s and AX-5s, here are some labeled AX-5 pics I have that I have handy.

Max

[BillySue]

Many thanks, Max, I was hoping there were people like you on this site. I rebuilt and restored a '49 Chevy one and a half ton truck and I got a lot of help from the Chevy club.

It would be a smaller problem to solve if my problem was a linkage problem. Do you belive the symptom (immediately comes out of 4th while fine in all other gears) could be a linkage problem?

Many thanks!

BillySue

[Mean Max]

Originally Posted by BillySue

Many thanks, Max, I was hoping there were people like you on this site. I rebuilt and restored a '49 Chevy one and a half ton truck and I got a lot of help from the Chevy club.

It would be a smaller problem to solve if my problem was a linkage problem. Do you belive the symptom (immediately comes out of 4th while fine in all other gears) could be a linkage problem?

Many thanks!

BillySue

I wouldn't think so. There really is no linkage adjustments, or ways for the linkage to be an issue.

Here is the input shaft & 4th gear syncro. You can just barely see the small square-edged cutout on the outside edge. There are three of these around the outside of the syncro, and they line up with three "keys" on the inside of the shift collar (next pic) to keep the syncro in place. If they become damaged they will allow the syncro to spin around & bind up, preventing full gear engagement.

Here you can see the "keys" inside the shift collar (far left of pic) that are held in place by snap rings.

Max

[TSEJEEPERS]

BillySue please fill out your profile.
If you have a body lift or a drop transfercase, your shifter could be hitting the tub. It will not engage all the way and when you let off of the gas it will pop out of gear.
Easy enough to fix. Take the boot loose, cut the tub some and move the boot back. Fasten back down.

[BillySue]

Thank you, Max. I've rebuilt tractor transmissions but this looks a lot more complicated. The Allis transmissions don't really have linkages. The shift lever engages the forks that move the gears directly inside the transmission housing. What you say makes sense. But I found a Jeep question-answer site in which the 'editor' told a poster that the gear coming out immediately upon clutch release was a 'linkage problem'.

On my Jeep, you can feel that 4th never engages. You can even see that the shift lever doesn't come as far back trying for 4th as it does in 2nd and reverse. I am certain the tranny never engages 4th gear. So, does every gear have a synchronizer?

I may be in over my head on this one if I have to take that complicated-looking tranny apart and replace the syncro for 4th gear.....

BillySue

[BillySue]

Thank you TSEJEEPERS - I will fill out a profile. I do have a body lift.

It pops out of fourth when I let the clutch out. And, I don't believe it ever gets into fourth. As I mentioned, the shift lever 'going into fourth' doesn't go as far back as it does going into 2nd or reverse.

Sometimes the gear grinds when I let out the clutch.

Many thanks.... Lemme think about that one...

BillySue

[Mean Max]

Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS

BillySue please fill out your profile.
If you have a body lift or a drop transfercase, your shifter could be hitting the tub. It will not engage all the way and when you let off of the gas it will pop out of gear.
Easy enough to fix. Take the boot loose, cut the tub some and move the boot back. Fasten back down.

Originally Posted by BillySue

Thank you TSEJEEPERS - I will fill out a profile. I do have a body lift.

It pops out of fourth when I let the clutch out. And, I don't believe it ever gets into fourth. As I mentioned, the shift lever 'going into fourth' doesn't go as far back as it does going into 2nd or reverse.

Sometimes the gear grinds when I let out the clutch.

Many thanks.... Lemme think about that one...

BillySue

The body lift scenario is DEFINITELY something to check out!

I do a LOT of Jeep transmission work in real life, and here on jeepforum as well, so it's not uncommon for me to start right out thinking of the internal possibilities.

But as TSEJEEPERS so accurately pointed out, it is very common for the shifter to contact the tub in 2nd, 4th, or Reverse after a body lift.

Trimming the sheetmetal, or bending it out of the way will alleviate the condition. Please check this out!

Max

[BillySue]

I thank you all for your replies. Would you please help me again?

I took the top cover off the transmission where the gear shift lever is. There is no part of the body anywhere near the shift lever. But, it looks like I could go another level deeper. Would there be any point in doing that? I don't understand where the 'tub' is in relation to the shift mechanism.

Many thanks,

Bill Sue

[BillySue]

This question is for Max and TSEJEEPERS. I have taken the shifter dust boot off and the shift lever has plenty of clearance between the shift leveran and the body pan. I question whether or not my problem is the synchronizer, because it will go into gear PARTIALLY and then pop out. If the synchronizer were bad, it wouldn't go into gear at all, right? It would just grind, is what I believe. But it is clear that the shift lever does not come back as far as it does in second. So, something is keeping the lever from coming all the way back.

When it goes into 4th partially, I can hold the shift lever back and I have 4th gear. But when I release the shift lever, it pops out.

Do you have an idea what these symptoms mean?

May thanks,

BillySue

[Mean Max]

Here's some info that may explain some things.

Pull the shifter & check the seal/bushing that provides the "socket" for the "ball" of the shifter to ride in. The bushing/seal is located in the base of the shift tower mounted atop the gear case.

Here is the shift tower. The shifter lock ring engages the 2 pins in the sides of the tower and the seal sits at the bottom to provide a seat for the ball on the shifter. The pins are not removable, but the oil seal can be installed while they're in place.

Shifter removal includes unlocking the retainer ring from the base, check the small hard nylon cap at the very tip of the shifter for wear.

The cap engages the top of this part, which has a "leg" that operates the shift rails.

This is the part above while installed, and the tower removed.

The "leg" from that part engages the big bulky items on the ends of the shift rails on the left side of this photo.

If the seal/bushing that the ball of the shifter is worn out/missing or the tip cap is damaged/missing the shifter will not be able to move the "leg" of the linkage far enough to allow for gear selection.

Here is a better pic of the shifter rails where the "leg" engages each rail. Because your shifter has a pivot, the top rail pushes "in" (from this perspective) for Reverse, and "out" for 5th. The middle one moves "in" for 4th, and "out" for 3rd. The lowest one moves "in" for 2nd, and "out" for first.

Hope this helps!

Max

[5.7YJ]

Max, do you think it could be a bent shift fork?

[BillySue]

This weekend I will pull the shifter and do the things Max suggests. Max, your last post makes a lot of sense to me.

This transmission has been 'rebuilt by pros' twice before. I am inclined to junk it and put in a remanufactured transmission. With a core, what would the expense be if I do the installation myself and where would be a reliable place to get one?

Many thanks,

BillySue

[Mean Max]

Originally Posted by 5.7YJ

Max, do you think it could be a bent shift fork?
I wouldn't suspect that. The reason I say that is because the shift forks are cast aluminum & not really prone to bending.

Originally Posted by BillySue

This weekend I will pull the shifter and do the things Max suggests. Max, your last post makes a lot of sense to me.

This transmission has been 'rebuilt by pros' twice before. I am inclined to junk it and put in a remanufactured transmission. With a core, what would the expense be if I do the installation myself and where would be a reliable place to get one?
I would just rebuild it myself. I have seen several AX-5 & AX-15 transmissions rebuilt by local "professionals" that left a lot to be desired.

Many thanks,

BillySue

I usually buy my rebuild parts from:

Southwest Gear
11109 Dyer Street
El Paso, Tx. 79934

1-877-432-7748
Nanci Wilkinson-Kurtz - owner

Max

[BillySue]

OK, Max (deep breath here), after I get it out, I'll take a look inside. A friend of mine who makes a living working on cars has me kinduva afraid of trying to rebuild the tranny. I have a lot of tools but I don't know if I have all I would need, and the only trannys I've had apart are Allis-Chalmers ones (a pain in the neck because you have to pull the engine and flywheel, but the last one I did I just disconnected the engine from the torque tube and slid it forward about half a foot).

With this Jeep transmission, I feel like I don't know what I'm doing. But the only way to learn is to get in there and get dirty.

BillySue